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sjasnnnnnnnnsssnannnw EiMBNAnONS Aoi-ot? Asia Minor?The Bagdad Rail way Growing?Ancient Cities of Crest Anatolian Plain Will Ons Day lilossom With Modern Civilization. fly WILLIS T. KLUS. I Tarana. Asta Minor.?The main high? ways of history run across Asia Minor. Tali has boon the route for uncounted can *urIea of tao armlos of conquest, and the peaceful caravans of trade. I journeying from Asia to Europe or fron? Europa to Asia. Here are the footprints of Cyrus and Darius. Nebu caadnetsar and Alexander the Great, the Caesars, the Crusaders, the Turks and the Arabs, and such distinguished Individual travelers an the) Apostle Paul Ho who gone on foot or wheel today will Bad himself traveling the Iden? tical route built by the Romans, and crowd ng old Roman bridges At be notes) the sites of battles or campt, be will be able to tee In the configuration of tlie ground why they were to chos -n The trip I hart Just made to a wonderful commentary upon the hooks we studied In school and upon the history of the early Christian church. Here are the rulnt of many of the groat cltlet of clastic literature, the "Baven Churches of Asia," to which the t ami liar passages in the Apoca? lypse were addressed: and the other The Turkish Way With Railroads. Railroads are running tA'o-thirds ol the way across this great Anatolian plain, and the construction is being pushed fonvard through the Te.urus mountains. There is a train a day tn each direction, carrying both pausen gers and freight. The cars are built cm the European model, with compart ments. The trains do not run at night, and the first night out from Smyrna Is spent, nolens volens, at a mlserol lf native inn where the proprietor think? it strange that guests are not willirr to crowd three into a room, and ever, Insist upon clean bedding. The train start.! at day-break, for Turkish time is a constantly changing quantity. Sun sot is 12 o'clock, so that clocks und watches must change every d*y. The natives generally take their time from the call to prayer In the minarets. Eventually the time tables will be printed "a la Frank." as they call things European out here. The train from Smyrna connects with that from Constantinople at a picturesque ancient city, Aphlon Kara Ulster, where there is a fortress that seems more Impregnable and imposing than Gibraltar. There Is ai hour's interval between trains. Undertaking to spend part of this time in the ba? zaars, I returned ten or fifteen minutes ahead of the time scheduled for the departure of the train, only to see it pulling out across the plain. I was cheerfully Informed that as there was very little freight that day, the train had started ahead of time! This meant twenty-four hours in a city where the only English-speaking per? son was the American pastor of the American Board church. When the Bagdad Railway gets to running, this city will be an important point, and a popular objective for tour? ists. It was here that the Turkish gov ernment undertook to colonize the Moslem Cretans. It built houses for Wagon. Ready for Start AcroM Asia Minor. eitle? which gave Paul and his com? panions a sample ot mob law or else worshipped them as Gods. The Ancient East Still Survives. The country Is still pretty much as ft hss >een for millenniums. Tho cities are new hidden under the debris of ages, snd the thriving commerce of that older day has disappeared along with the marchirg legions. But the waysldo wells are identical with those at which the thirsty soldiers used to drink. The khans are built of mud and str?w, and ere after the same type as were known to the travelers before Christ; indeed they cannot be very different from that primitive khan in Bethlehem wherein was born the world's Conqueror. The dust from pssslng caravans en grimes the traveler. The soft-footed camels who now come swaying along with ?e-pent necks, are laden with cans of American kerosene. The bul? lock carts with their primitive solid wooden wheels, bear material for the construction of the Bagdad railway. A heat stick Rtlll serves for a plow. Agriculture Is largely by hand, and the threthlng floors of scripture are s frequent sight. Picturesquely clad na? tives move slowly along on donkfya I saw one young mother and child, whose bearded husband and father had stof ped at a brook to give them drink, who suggested strikingly the picture of the Flight into Kgypt. Where ths Glory Hss Departed. The aoclent productiveness ot this Anatoli.i i plain when the hills were them and then straightway forgot them, so that the colony subsequently i flew by right, like the Israelites from j Egypt The next night is spent at Kenia? the ancient Iconlum, where the Apos? tle Paul waa so shabbily treated, and now notable as having the only decent hotel In the interior of Asia Minor. Meerschaum quarries, a mission school and interesting archaeological excava? tions are the notable sights of Konto. Again starting at daybreak, firegll is reached about novm. For practical 1 purposes this iti the present end of I the Bagdad rail way. It is a small, dusty, malarial .own, without a hotel j above the khan classification. Here j wagons or horses are taken for the overland Journey to Tarsus. Travelers In Arabas. The process of securing arabas, which are dimicatlve prairie Bchoon j are, with entrances at the sides, re | sembles a small riot Everything in the Orient must be done with, great noise, and before terms are finally ' made with one driver, It looks as If t blcJd would be shed. The Journey across the plain takes threo nighU and parts of fou:* days. The govern? ment desires travelers to be accora |anied by one or more soldiers as es? cort, because the region Is famous for ' outlawry. A soldier has an old fash? ion MauBer single-shot rifle strung over his shoulders, and at certain points he carries this in his hand. An i American traveler puts more confi? dence in his own magazine pistol than Shoveling G-.iln on the Line of the Bagdad Railway. ????red with trees and there was plen? ty of watiT, Is apparent at a glance. Much uf it resembles the west In parts of the t'nited States and Canada. Its ancient gl ?ry may be r?tOffll at any time that in I fib lent govemtnent pro sides for ;.ffor?'sf ration and I rlgatlou. Perhaps the eines or antlq itty will rtsc again Sardis. where CfQggQg Aade his HMM I synonym for rletms. Is now a heap of ruins wherein an gl pedltion from Princeton Pnlverslty is figging Ancient Phil-idelphla. Is now called gleshlr ami one may see 'he ronipara lively new vIPikm through a ruined arch In tin- oM ?U \n ggogHegit mln sral water, wi long befnr? 11 Phi Han erg etil lg the m>w inj lawn for thU region. b? ?-,.?? erhole worl I in this fierce looking attendant. The latter does, however, give a degree of prestige and the right of way when passing earavans. The khans along the way provide n'? furniture and no food, other than an occasional chicken. 1'sually a Euro? pean can get a room to himself, and lw carries his own cot bed and supply Of Insect powder. The experience bring! one quite clone to native life end. If he dcHrires, the traveler may Visit the elders of the village and talk DOll tie I and progreei with them What the New Railroad Means. The Bogund Railway will he well Into the Taurus mountains early this year. Wort i? actively in operation ipon this section and alee upon the ?treteb Acroai the Ctllelnn plain on 'he other side of the mountains Its < ompletlon to Adana will perhnpi bi Mr* viHith. im. ?.f OranV mi.k, \a \Miim?? m? i sist.-r, MIm fcnnle Dlllott, a matter of three years. This will mean a wonderful opening up of trade. Modern machinery will be brought in? to the country. New hotels and vil? lages are already coming Into exis? tence. Irrigation is bound to follow and the advent of western fashions will transform the life of Asia Minor. The linking of Constantinople with the northern Mediterranean region will bring hundreds of tourists, and ah they imply. The scenery in the Taurus moun? tains is beautiful beyond description. The mountains of Scotland are not comparable with it, and it ranks wiln the best of the Rockies and Switzer? land. Some of the peaks are snow covered all the year round. There are majestic gorges and precipices and vistas. The natural beauties are en? hanced by frequent remains of antiq? uities. In the narrowest part of the CUician dates is chiselled a tablet recording the passage of Marcus Aurelius. Ro ; man milestones dot the road, although In some cases they have been altered to bear Turkish numerals. The fa? mous CUician Gates proper have proved too difficult for the railway en? gineers, so they go through an upper pass, which they consider somewhat! easier. At best the engineering dim-1 culties will be great. Once the moun-1 tains have been crossed, the railway debouches upon the great CUician! plain beyond which sparkles the Medi? terranean. Nobody is willing to prophesy how long it will take the railroad to cross from Adana above the head of the I Mediterranean to Aleppo and then I down into Mesopotamia. When that' day does come, it will be a notable I event In eastern politics as well as in commerce. In the meantime, there are those who say that the Germans will never be permitted to complete it so long as the British Empire lasts. (Copyright, 1911, by Joseph B. Bowles.) DROPPED TRUNKFUL OF G'S Peculiar Exhibit Used by Mrs. Bill tope for the Reformation of Her Husband. "Ezra," said Mrs. Bllltops to her admiring husband, "I have something here that I desire you should see," and as she spoke she threw back the lid of a big trunk in the storeroom. The trunk waa full, level full, of a vast number of little things of uni? form size that might have been oats or grains of wheat, but which upon a little closer inspection seemed to be small type letters. I 'They are letters, Ezra," said Mrs. Bllltops; "they are the g's you have] dropped in the last three years." | And the meaning of this exhibit was clear to Mr. Billtops Instantly; | he was not really a dull man; it was ! not necessary to hit him with a maul i to make him understand things. Mr. hilltops has always been a great man j for dropping his g's. Whether from carelessness or laziness or economy j of his speech, or whatever his prompt? ing, he has always said seein' for, seeing, and bein' for being, and doin'1 for doing, and this has always dis? turbed Mrs. Billtons. Time and again she has sought to get him In this re? spect to mend his ways, but habit has proved too strong for him, and so finally she resolved to give him an ob? ject lesson. "Three years ago, Ezra," she said, "unbeknown to you I began gathering up tho g's you drooped in speaking. I started out to keep them In an empty fruit Jar, but I soon found that I wouldn't do, In fact I was appalled by the number I collected. I "I found that much as you had dls-1 turbed mo in this way I had still never realized how bad you were; so I began storing them in this trunk,1 and here you see, Ezra, a trunkful j of g's that you have dropped in three j years. Don't you tLInk that is terrl-1 hie?" 1 Mr. Hilltops freely admitted that it certainly was; and then and there In the presence of that open trunk he vowed a reform. If she would throw j away those g's, he said, right now, to th^ last one, he would most earnestly | endeavor always to remember to make it ever impossible for her co start an-, other collection. I Just to See the Ball Game. "My!" exclaimed little Jimmy as he gazed at the lithograph. "I'd like to t>e a giraffe. Just think how easily you could 'rubber' over tho baseball fence." "That's all right," replied Johnny, "but there is another time when you wouldn't want to have a neck like a giraffe." "When is that?" "Why, in the mornings when your ma begins to scrub your neck with soap and water." A Precaution. "Mary." said her mistress, "I'm go? ing to entertain a few friends this afternoon. You needn't stay in." "Hut don't you want mc to help?" said the hired girl "No. I'll get along myself. I'm afraid If any of my friends see how j competent you are they'll start to bid? ding for your services " _ Even Then. American Cltlien (A i> 1910)- You don't lake much interest in congress. ! Bsra. I Another No I tell you tin y don't ? bare the men there that tli'-y hud twenty years ago put h Odd Coincidence. "What do you think about the man who Is the base of all my musical sue tress In song ?" "What ah >??' him?" "He Isn ? a l it I at all; ho's tenor." on Soath Marvin street. IMTiONS The Spirit of Change Has Reached the Holy Land and Its Famous Capital? Religious Sectarianism H?s Crowded Holy City With Riva! Establishments. By WILLIAM T. ELLIS. Jerusalem.?Of three holy cities that are popular places of pilgrimage, Jeru? salem, Mecca and Benares, the Turk? ish empire has two within her borrlers. The Holy Land, as Christendom calls the little strip of territory along the Mediterranean coast north of Egypt, is an integral part of Turkey. It has always been famous for the persist? ence of its ancient customs, so that hundreds of clergymen travel over it every year, to get light on the Bible. A generation hence, that search will not be so successful, for it is patent that. Palestine is sharing the awak? ing of the ancient east. Not only is there a railway from Bei? rut to Damascus, and from Damascus to Haifa, and from Damascus to Me? dina, and from Jaffa to Jerusalem, but there is also projected at the present time a new railway that will go down the coast from Beirut through Sidon, Tyre, Acre, Haifa and Jaffa, clear to the Suez canal. Improving on Solomon. The ancient City of David has come under the new influences of modern times. Negotiations are at preset t pending for several radical and trans? forming innovations. The first of these to be pushed to early completion will probably be the water system. Jerusalem still depends on the collect? ed rain supply in cisterns for its wa? ter. The very pools built by Solomon are still in use, although the munici? pal system has greatly deteriorated since his day. Now it is proposed to bring water from two sources, in Fara, north of the Mount of Olives, and Fawar, an? other spring in the same valley. It has been found that this water is pure and sufficient for the city's needs. When this has been put into water old bazars, widening the Street of David, carrying passengers past the Mosque of Omar, which is the site of the ancient Temple of the Jews. Imag? ine the worshipers of the Temple dis? turbed by the clang of the bell of the ?lectrio car! At present most of the streets are as narrow as footpaths. When the soft-stepping camel comes along, as he does every few minutes, all pedes? trians must stand aside in the re? cesses of the bazars, or against the walls, to make way for his passage. Even the plodding donkey, who, still as of yore, Is the favored beast of bur? den, takes nearly the whole street when he passes. These electric lines will vastly en? hance the comfort of the ^ity, but they will play havoc with its historical as? pect. Can sentiment survive the con? ductor's call, "All out for the Holy Sepulcher!" "This way for the Jews' "Wailing Place." "Next stop the Tem? ple Area." "The Damascus Gate," and "Via Dolorosa!"? New Lights for Old Streets. Jerusalem is not so dark as some Oriental cities, for the municipality "placed a thousand kerosene lamps along the principal highways. Now it is on the program of the government to install an electric lighting plant for the streets, and for the stores and houses. A telephone system also is on the docket. At present practically all the modern business of Jerusalem is done outside of the city walls. Messages can be carried from one part to an other only, as in the time of David, by foot messenger. Soon the tinkle of the telephone bell will rival the more musical notes of the camels' bells. A Pauperized City. Religion has blighted Jerusalem. The Apostle Paul could repeat here Iiis famous words: "I perceive that In ill things you are too religious." One looks in vain for the smokestacks of modern industry, and for great warehouses, or temples of business. He sees scores of expensive modern buildings, but all in the name of sec? tarian religion. Old Jerusalem, as viewed from the hills, presented one outstanding build? ing, the Temple of the Jews. Today the approaching traveler is confused Ly the multitude of the spires and tow? ers and noble edifices. Missions of all kinds, and hospices and convents and monasteries and asylums abound. City of Palestine. mains, nd all the residents have been comp, lied I > Install it in their homes, it will mean a revolution In the hab? its and the life of the people, and, it is hoped, a revolution also in the mat? ter of personal el auliness. Where Foreign Governments Interfere. In order to meet the expenses of the installation of the water system, the government decided to take, as a special tax, the hides of the animals slaughtered within the city. A com? mon sight is a sheep tethered on the sidewalk outside the butcher shop, awaiting its turn. As this bore hard? ly upon the butchers, many of whom are registered at the various consul? ates as citizens of foreign countries, these representatives of the powers objected, so some other means of iinaneing the new water system will have to be found, Men seeking the concession are on the ground, and the government seems determined to carry the project to an early settle? ment. Allied to the water question is that of sewage. Jerusalem has something in the way of an antiquated system of sewage, but the visitor would never suspect it. Travelers talk of the liithiness of the streets of Jerusalem ?and the listeners understand them in the terms of the west, which gives no 'nkling of the real situation. The prt prletiei of western life do not per? mit one to speak freely on this point. Hut the streets of Jerusalem are as bad as those of the Chinese cities, if not worse. The marvel is that pesti? lence has not swept away the popula? tion. If, along with the proposed new system of sewage, there go vigorous police regulations, a most welcome change will be effected in the sights and smells of Jerusalem. Down D-ivid Street by Trolley. Until recently it was impossible to travel anywhere in Jerusalem by wheel? ed vehicle, but various streets have been widened, thanks largely to the visit of various roy i personages, But on the whole, ihe streets of the city are narrow and u: .. for vehicle traf? fic, Many of tli i are vaulted, so that they are really lunnels, and while picturesque to tie laat degree, they do not hual lhemse!v< i to the purpo < a of modern strc is. Now tli. r form government pro? po ? a to Install four or live lines of ? ? el rlc trollcj ? ? r;. ;.ll of 1 bdm cen? .< ring at th- ! ? ? \ ;i te. Tin y will i n met t (he ip Ighborlng villages with the city, so tbt >e may >;o to Beth' lehem for a nl ' !. and In less than halfen Ucur. < a lite win Invade the Miss M. B. Quattlebaum, who has Practically all of these are supported 'rom abroad. Concerning the Jewish )rganizations and Jewish problems lere I shall write in another article. At present I deal only with various ?hristian churches: Tue Greek, the Armenian, the Roman Catholic, the Syriac, the Coptic, ami the Protestant. ! There are literally hundreds of te'.ig lous institutions in Jerusalem. One sect alone spends 6,000,000 franc? ! ?very year for the upkeep of its mom j isteries and other institutions. The Rivalry for Sacred Sites. j I Every holy sight imaginable has ocen possessed?and many beyond the Imagination of a mere student of the Bible. Some have even been manu? factured, so keen is the rivalry of the Did churches to possess the holy places that attract the pilgrims. The situa? tion has come to such a pass that vis? itors are scarcely shown the real antiq uites of Jerusalem, so popular with the professional guides are the legend? ary ones. There is now afoot a plan for an American institution of popu? lar Biblical archaeology, supported and controlled in the United States, which will provide visitors from the west with the information they really de? sire. The overlay of superstition and com? mercialism and professional ecclesias? tical rivalry which one finds In Jeru? salem is quite as bad as may be seen at Benares. It has become necessary to staiion Turkish guards in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and in the Church of the Nativity at Bethle? hem, In or ler to keep the rival churches from coming to blows. The incongruity of Moslems with guns Etanding guard in the birthplace of ibe Prince of Peace strikes an Amer? ican visitor with greater force than jlv.x sanctity the spot may possess. The vast pilgrimages from Europe and Asiatic Russia are very profitable: and as they promote national prestige, I th< y are encouraged by the various I governments which have a stake In the future ol Turkey. Russia maintains a huge system of buildings, including a 1 .:? ?? hospice for visitors. There are Austrian, German, French and lta'. 1 . ' OSplcCB. Many of these pilgrims are Ignorant pea an:s, who see nothing discordant In the hanging of pnper flowers and gilded ?'? i halls amid the carvings ;.rd ornamentation of the Holy Bepul* I chro. The simplic ity, dignity, *'OJ I shipfulncss and real beauty of the ! . que of < hnar, e hlch is in the I r .; of the M?sl? ms. present a been visiting friends in the city, has striking; contrast to the famous Chris tian shrines. A Nazareth Carpenter's Views. The changes tnai are bound to trans? form Jerusalem and Palestine are al? ready to be seen at work. In the ba? zars of an older day are exhibited for? eign styles of dress, and goods of American and European manufacture. The stream of tourists from the west has effected changes in fashions. The economic conditions of the land have alteret" .ravely. ^ That this has penetrated to the0 6maller towns and villages, I learned in Nazareth. Here, seated amid the fragrant chips of an old fashioned car pen icr's shop, I talked with t!)e car? penter, at work on the floor, hewing out a wooden plow. He complained bitterly of the general advance of' prices of living, so that the 80 cents a day, which used to be a good wage for a skilled carpenter, is now inade? quate. Some of his relatives have solved the problem by emigrating to America, and he inquired concerning the feasibility of doing likewise. The world currents of today are pouring the warm ttream of transform-^ ing life against the ancient east. All that centuries have failed to do in Palestine, the present decade seems destined to accomplish. Paradoxically, the Holy Land has furnished the awak? ening motive that has made western civilization; but the land itself has roi mained largely untouched. Now PaP1 estine's turn se<*ms to have come. (Copyright, 1911, by Joseph B. Bowles.) HOW BIRTH WAS ESTABLISHED Calf's Birthday Was Recorded, Thus the Age of the Human Being ? Became Known. Dr. Cressy L. Wilbur, chief staustl cian of the bureau of census in Wash? ington, tells a story taken from court records which, according to the Wo? man's Home Companion, fairly typifies the national attitude toward vital sta-^ tistics. "Farmer Hadley," he said, "of In? diana on dying left his valuable farm in trust to his unthrifty son, to be? come the property of his granddaugh? ter on her twenty-first birthday. "The girl had been told the date of her birth and when her twenty-firs!^ anniversary, as she supposed, came ' around, she claimed her inheritance. But her father refused to surrender the farm, asserting that she was only nineteen. "The dispute was taken into court. The family Bible was appealed to, but the page for births and deaths wasl blank. The father had rendered no re? port to the town authorities; the fam? ily doctor was dead. Finally a neigh? bor remembered that a certain cow, much prized by the grandfather, had given birth to a calf on the very day when the girl was born and he could swear to it. My "Perhaps, the court opined, the grandfather had recorded the birth of the calf! The old farm book, careful? ly preserved in the family strong box, sustained the judge's theory; all the circumstances of the calf's birth were fully recorded. And thus the birthday of the human being was at length es* tabllehed. "Talk about the registration of births in the Vnited States!" exclaims Dr. Wilbur, "why, for not much more than one-half of the total population is there a fairly accurate registiation of deaths, to say nothing of births, o_ which we have nowhere in the country^ reliable or complete information, and many of the states are so little con? cerned about human life that they make no more account of the deaths of their citizens than of the trees they burn to make clearings." H00D00S OF WALL STREET Men Who for no Apparent Reason Do Not Make a Success in Business. Wall street people are superstitious. They will deny it when told so. but \f% you ask any one in the street if he? pver knew a hoodoo he will say, "Yes, many a one." Such a one was a cotton expert who. highly recommended, applied for a place with a Stock Exchange house that had bought a cotton exchange membership and needed a man toA open a newjfield of speculation to its? clients. The applicant was in every way de? sirable save for the fact that three houses with which he had been con? nected had failed, though not one for a dishonest reason. He was rejected as a hoodoo. hj Shortly afterward he made a connec? tion with another house to fill a simi? lar want and proved a very valuable man in his sphere, but within a year the fourth house failed. The hoodoo is often a man whom everybod) likes, speaks well of ai recommends to every one else. Wit the one reeenrntlon be is I man who unaccountably has not succeeded There is nothing whatever agains; him; he is honest and shrewd and all that, but unsuccessful. Oncv the hoodoo becomes known as such he must attach himself to tb newcomers -those who do not knov have not been warned or who are so new and confident as not to care. Each connection he makes is a little less d< strahle, until he finally reaches the stac ; ? which he is ashamed of his Mso4 latlons. Sign of Popular Affection. "\\ pen*! you Indignant when peo yon ilidnl Know called you by vr ? ? ? name?" plied Senator Sorghum; led a great deal since n a disposition to sto] returned to her home In Wlnnsboro