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AYAKING OLDER NATIONS Pslsstins and High Politics?A Deep Discontent Pervades the People and Myriads of Them Have Emigrated to the United States. By WILLIAM T. ELLIS. Jerusalem.?Of all the old nations, Palestine is the one la which the world Is most interested. Over these compe>ratirely few square miles have ?wept most of the force* that have ?side history Here wer? given to Bus race those influences which have most to change the history of the two thousand years. Ruins of self s dossu civilisations strike the eye of>ths traveler through the land. TsjL notwithstanding all. the life of dee Syrian peasant \U not greatly d'.f f scent from what It was In the time of Abraham. Wonder of Wonders, this old order It now undoubtedly passing away. Is the most Interesting of all the here for the discerning traveler It Is a revolution wrought by tue return to this land of forest which had their inception hers. After affect? ing most of the surface of the globe, they have come bsck to do thsir work m tns place of thsir birth. Paisstlue Is more deeply traveled by the prevailing unrest of the times thsn any other nation I have yet vis Hed. Pressed upon from many sides by the most modern influences, made sensitive to human rights by centuries of oppression. It Is small wonder that the Syrians wsrs most enthusiastic In nailing the new regime, with Its prom Ina of "Liberty, Justice, Fraternity, Banality.** In those phrases is em bodied all that the people have covet od In va far generations. Now they want these boons, and they want them right away. Failing their Immediate realisation, they turn their facet toward America. From Ons Land of Promise to Another. One morning I witnessed -the week l;r sxodns of Bethlehemites at the Je nasalem station of ths Jaffa railroad 1* was a scene for a painter's brush The young people who were leaving for America wsrs diessed in foreign style; only the young men stPl wore ths fes of Turkish subjtcts. This they would eichange for hats as soon as ./ got on board ship. The stern red old men, clad an their fathers been clad before them for gen stations, grimly tried to suppress all of grief; they must abide the conditions to the end. The women not wail aloud, as Is the usual ori d way. over the departure of sons sjed darf hters; for these fine-looking sttowg~'sutured women are almost Anglo-Saxon In their appearance to the strong strain of Crusa blood In their veins Ths flight Bethlehem to America has been unusual)> large because of these tra SU Ion* I qualities of aggressiveness and Independence. The lost to Syria In great, for the Bethlenomltes art fa ?sous workmen, es pec 'ally in the carv lug of mother of pearl. The magnitude and Importance of migration to America from Syria hardly be overestimated. More a quarter of a million are now ths new land of Promise, to which many mors have their 'aces turned as government sett ths conscription after 160 Chiittlnnt in Jsru It could find only 20, ths oth sen having fled, mostly to America The return of emigrants to America ?ad their letters home have a power fnf laflaence in Increasing the unrest All over ths Lebanon, which hap autonomous Christian government I where property la therefore safe, > returned emigrants have built fine ml then, in a surprising w of cases, have left them and back o America, usvally taking isnber of their nelghl>ors along town of Zahlen. Id ths Lebanon, ass) SO.Ooe of Its people In ths United States, where they have created a new ? with ths time narnf. More re de still In the case of Mamma aus, which now has 800 of its native ssrn remaining here, while 1,200 are an America. American Oil "ths Light of Asia." In other ways America is contribut? ing; directly to ths awakening of this std nation. Probably ths most typical accessory of ths life of Pales la the water Jar, carried on the of women. As it was In the ays when Rebecca went to the well rltb a clay jar upon her head, so It itlnues until now. But a change fn coining. The water Jar, as an in ?titution. la beginning to crack. Stand aro OH tins are taking its place. I saw a woman at Jacob's well at Sy sfear carrying water on her head in Me of these square tin cans. The water, by tho way, wss used lu mak? ing mortar for the building of the new 3reek ?hurch over the well. At the fountain of the Virgin. In Nazareth, 1 Ssrs watched the village dornen fill :heir jars and curry them off on their i. just ;im Mary used to do at rh" spring; hut some. I noticed, cm rled the tana ft cans of the Standard OM company. These same cans furnish most </ the tin that Is used In Asia. Aa have Oatrh'd Ion ? u a .ans of . am- : \ sonring antes of Standard Oil > Interior I bsve reralh-d tb)S Stadl of Utile i .n unit hla - hops I 1 all over Asia, wlwreln the native workmen wore baiting oul I hast ami r mhifiiitng them Into | stOft sj article* for doniesw gat In Bgypi I Once K.'m:Imi a r ? ggf] hOW air Men ana at Blstiopviu?-. was M to carry It without breaking was my problem. I put it up to the first tin? smith I met, and in ten minutes ha had transformed part of an American oil can into a weil-made coffin for pussy. "The Light of Asia," Standard oil Is called out here, because it hi displaced olive oil and candle dips I an lllumlnant. The School Teacher and Statesman? ship. There is no novelty in the state ment, which has been repeated by ev? ery observer that has ever been in Turkey, that the greatest part Amer? ica has in the awakening of this em? pire?and no other nation has had a greater?is through the American schools, which have leavened the whole lump with American Ideals. These are breaking down, to some de? gree, the religious sectarianism which Is the curse of the country. They are even making the new generation of Moslems tolerant. A case In point is that of the Maroni tea, whi were so blttar that they would not even let a foreign traveler pitch his tent in one of their villages. Now Iba people them selves are forcing their religious lead ers to admit or provide schools. It it In a stiff Maronite district, out? side of Beirut, that the only woman physician In Turkey who possesses a license from the government to prac? tica haa har headquarters. Dr. Mary Eddy Is a wonderful American woman, of tireless energy, masculine initiative and extraordinary skill, whose experi? ences in itinerating among the Arabs and throughout Syria read like a ro? mance. Now she hat opened the first tuberculosis sanitarium in the empire, and she plana a nation-wide anti-tuber? culosis campaign. In this she Is sup? ported by the American Red Cross at Beirut, established by Consul-Gen- ! < iv hero In Janta*)em. It. has existed for more ;' ;hi a score of >ears, and out wa ruh app< an to ba more pros? perous than at any otl ?' time In us history. It numbers more than a hurf dred persons, non< ol whom, strang< to lay, ll B lOClalitt. 71:cy claim to b ? m< r< ly < bis family, with no partic? ular theories to work out. They have ali tlii:. .- la eotrmon, and each doe* the Work for Which bd or seemf Lest Qualided. While a large percea tagf? of the American colony are Swedes, ths majority of the ^rc/.:; hold American citizenship. They tio an extensive bui iuesa in pressed flowers and olive wood articles, and their store is ftdmlttadly the foremost in the city, showing that aven In the Orient the om-prieo principle can be made to pay. An official at the Amer? ican consulate said to me, when we were discussing the colony, "I notice that when anybody in the city wants anything done he usually goes to the American colony." Thus the American trait of efficiency has come to be the dominant characteristic of the com? munity. Like the ill-fated American colony at Jaffa, this one was started on s peculiarly religious basis. A Chicago lawyer and his wife came out here ta wait for the return of the Messiah. They held extreme views on many sub? jects, including the making of money. Hard times eventually drove them to work, and now, while the religious as? pect of the colony has fallen very much Into the background, it is a no? table commercial success. There was no marrying or giving In marriage in the earlier years of the community, and frequent and grave charges were made against It. especially in the mat? ter of free love. The members them? selves, and their friends, have always Cameli Laden With American Oil. eral O. Bie Ravenaai. Thus it may be teen how the American influence in Turkey is working in humanitarian and Inspirational ways. Europe's Designs on Palestine. In contrast with the altruistic la? bors of America for Turkey and es? pecially for the Holy Land, is the con? duct of the great European powers, who are playing a skillful game for the ultimate control of this land, and even making use of religious preju? dices to that end. Russia fosters and supports pilgrimages. As one instance of her interest iu this direction, it may be said that she maintains in Je? rusalem a hospice where 10,0c0 pil? grims may be entertained at one time. She stands behind the Greek church, and. equally Important, the Greek church stands behind her. A wide? spread ecclesiastical support Is of more value out here than a warship. France is no longer allied to fcfco church, but just the same sne is the protectress of f 11 Roman Catholic in? terests. Nobody Is so blind as to sup? pose this Interest represents religious seal. Both these nations, as well as Great Britain also, seem to he hopelessly outdistanced by Germany. The "ka'.ser impartially supports Protestant and Catholic, anl also goes out of his way to throw elaborate, if artificial, buo quets to Islam, all in the interest of Germany's schemes here. The Ger- . man name has been written large all over Syria. Up In the famoas ruins of Baalbeck, which Emperor William visited in 1898, may be seen an incon? gruous marble and inlaid motherof pearl tablet, recording his sentiments j of appreciation of the ruin and of Ab- j dul Hamid?both ruins significantly | coupled. On the tomb of Saladin the Great, who drove the Crusaders from Palestine, is still preserved a faded wreath of flowers, laid there by tho Christian emperor of whose eulogy of Islam the Mohammedans have made so much. A gold wreath, with a pen? dant which is apparently a posthu? mous decoration, was presented to the tomb by William. But as the decora? tion contains the figure of a cross, its presence is counted sacrilege by the more fanatical Moslems, and it is nec? essary to keep two guards always on duty In the tomb to prevent the for? cible removal of the wreath. The most conspicuous Object! In th* landscape of the Holy Land, except Mount Hermon, are the two towers, or steeples, erected on the Mount of olives by the Germans and Kussians. These are the first objects that meet the traveler's eye, from whatever di rec'ion he comes. They may he seen from far over tho Jordan; by them the Holy City's site may be located from Motui? Neho Local residents point to certain features about these towers which indicate that in time of war they could be readily used for other than religious purposes. Naturally, the ohjc t <>f |hi pri sent activities of the powers which havo ambitions of their own for S\ria is to be ready for all eventualities. An American Communistic Experi? ment. The ?mlv communistic experiment of which I nave knowledge that has no* COBJS 'o an early and Inglorious end Is Wl known as the American col the city Thursday morning. hotly denied these, and called them slanders. At present the members ! marry, although all eat at the same table and share the same life. They seem uncommonly happy, and are In : especially good repute with the na- I tives, to whom they show hospitality, j Certainly their life is in lovely con- | trast to the bitter religious sectarian- j ism here. 'Copyrifht, 1911, by Joseph B. Bowles.) j Lighthouse Without a Keeper. "What do you think of a perpetual ? lighthouse, needing no keeper and yet | as regular in its flashes of light as j one maintained by the government?" , asked Albert I). Vail Wyek. "This natural light never fails, and that means much for navigation. It is a volcano on the island of San Sal- \ vador. This volcanic lighthouse is r.bout eight miles inland from the port j of Acajutla. It is a veritable pillar of cloud by day and the flash of its light by night has been valuable to mariners for years: It can be seen far out at sea and a burst of flame has gone upward every neven minutes without the variation of a second for many years. "A lighthouse fee is collected of all vessels that put in at the harbor near? est the volcano and no skipper ob? jects. He knows that the volcano Is rrore reliable than the lighthouses kept by human beings on other coasts and the novelty of the light is worth the price charged by the government." The Jews in Palestine. A wonderful result is following the opening of Palestine to the Jews, by proclamation of the Turkish constitu? tion. The influx now in progress is ?normous. Jews are reckoned by tens of thousands in Tiberias, Jaffa, Safed and Haifa, while the Hebrew popula? tion at Jerusalem now numbers at least 100,000, or four-fifths of the whole population. Thousands are flocking from Persia and Russia. The Jordan valley, which was the property of the ex-sultan, Abdul Hamid, Is be? ing bought up by Jewish syndicates. So is the large and beautiful and fer? tile plain of Esdraelon. The value of land is already quadrupled. One day the world will wake up and rub its eyes with wonder when it discovers what is going on. To Honor Distinguished Woman. Mme. Curie, codiscoverer with her late husband of radium, has been In? vited to come from Paris to America next year for the purpose of taking part in the International Chemical congress, which is to be held in Wash? ington, Last year the Chemical So? ciety of America eh e ted Mme. Curie an honprai j member. Maybe Not. "You ought to wear clothes, de? clared the missionary, "Clothes are as Oheap as dirt." "Put are they as healthful?" de? manded the South Sea Islander. Room In Front. Conductor Move forward there, please). Casey (who has moved along twice) -Divii a bit furder! ?>i paid me nickel C ride, not t' kape on walkln'. Mi. H, is. Hair, assistant superln BS* ryraz& yxs,-Yi.&ia& ' OLDEB VA A Land of Strange Contrasts Is Tur? key in It? State of Transition? Western Styles Crowding Out Old Customs, Creating Incongruities. By WILLIAM T. ELLIS. Constantinople.?Standing on th*. top of one of the ruined towers of the Bosphorus, which Mohammed the Conqueror, built in 1433, when he laid siege to Constantinople, I studied the strange city which lay extended be? fore me as a magnificent panorama. Viewed from a distance, Constanti? nople is a city of wonderful contrasts, it links the present with the past. Before these stones were piled, form? ing by the walls of the castle the name of the Prophet, this was the cap? ital of a Christian empire, and it still bears the name of the first Christian Roman Emperor. Many traces of its ancient splendor abide. The Byzan? tine glories may still be seen in part by the tourist, who will also find evi? dences of the Crusaders' activities here where the two continents Im? pinge. rp these blue waters have sailed throughout the centuries all kinds of craft Now in sight of one are a few Turkish warships, a small American gun boat, the darting caiques of the turbaned boatmen and freighters of many nations, together with cumber? some large native crafts with the kinged masts. This gateway is so im? portant to the world's peartT that by international agreement no warships may pass through it. European poli? tics are more concerned with Turkish affairs than with any other single subject. So the marvelous rejuvena? tion of the Ottoman empire Is of deep Interest to civilization. Paradoxes of Progress. The present stage in Turkey's rapid awaking is that of contrast. The palaces along the Bosphorus, practical? ly all of them owned, until the Revo? lution, by Abdul Hamid, are rather tawdry creations at best, but they are in contrast with the miserable hovels of the people, whose dwellings are meager beyond the western compre? hension. The word "home" as a synonym for house can scarcely be used here in Turkey. Along the water front Is a palace which was used by the Parliament, until fire gutted it. Not far away is the present palace of the reigning Sul? tan, who is a mere shadow of the ab? solutism of his deposed brother. In terspersedt between palaces are the residences of Pashas, and more or less prosperous citizens, with the lat? ticed windows of Ihe harems turner', toward the water. There is the ro? mance of the mysterious about these dirty lattices?a western woman would surely keep them clean?and about the iron-barred tunnels that lead un? der the houses to the water. One cannot help speculating as to the tragedies that have been enacted along these shores. The system of Seclusion for women that Islam or? dains lu.s many disadvantages, one be? ing that it requires a man to build a high wall alongside of his house, to keep bis neighbor from overlooking his ha:*em. Schools are beginning to come to their own in Turkey, but the minaret atill dominates the landscape, and the wailing cry of the muezzin five times a day is a familiar sound to all parts of the city. An Inadequate Fire Alarm System. On yonder hill a cannon booms when? ever there is a fire in one of the vil? lages along the Bosphorus. The plan in the city proper is for a watchman on one of the great Are towers to re? port to others who patrol the streets, and these others go crying, in jackal tonos that make one think of the souls of the lost, the general vicinity of the fire. Whosoever will may then run to the scene of excitement and share in the possible loot. A few BiOdern lire engines have been intro? duced Into the city, but it has been my fortune chiefly to see the inade? quate box ? arried on the shoulders of runner? who are accustomed to get to the \ - Bometlme before the whole city hat b ?? a burned down, and hire tbemreh1 out to the property own? er? l ? \ e witnessed several con nap attoos, one of them devastating fifty 1 out OS. V ? ? are no telephones in the city, except I etween government offices, no pub'ic I ghting system and no electric cars. The reets are incredibly bad, yet at one c< rner of the foreign quar? ter of Pers I saw these three won? ders: R Constantinople street being widened, a steam roller at work, and tl e cypress trees of the Moslem graveyard being cut down' The ged of change 1 as Certainly cone to Tur? key' The Cooiie and the Automobile. That the old order is passing is patent to everybody who knows how to look at things In the large People cannot have even ? form of constitu? tional government, and yet treat oi section of the community as mere beasts of burden. The newspaper, a moving picture show, the automobile and the school book are forerunners of the Inevitable new day. No* that Constantinople has reckless red autoi driven through Its narrow overcrowd? ed streets, it is bound to have also a chariot of progress of which this is symbol, There is not room on the same high W83 Of Civilization for a twenty horse OY ? r automobile and a man Strug Made] the load of an ox. Con tendanl of the Atlantic Coast Lint stau? inople has had tie latter for centuries, it is now gefing the form- \ er. '1 he incredible burdens which these Koordlsh coolies or hamals bear would seem like iietiou to the west- , e;D world. Frequently I have seen a j man carrying a do/en chairs on his j back; another bore at one time thirty six of the big square oil-cans wi.ich ' the Stauda: d Oil Company has made a not uncor: mon load. I saw a man j with a Gri . d llapids roll top de?k and j the office chair fastened to it, en his back. A packing case is one of the commonest ot loads. I saw a coolie crossing the Galata bridge with a cof- j fin on his back. Now if the awaking J J of Turkey means am thing, It must mean the emancipation of the com- j inon people rroui Tacse Tl&c'enl ' Jr ' dens. Big Hats and Moslem Veils. The advent of the western styles j involves unforeseen difficulties for an I Oriental people. It is easy for the Turk in baggy trousers and shoes that slip off, to sit cross-legged on the floor; when he dons tie, trousers and patent leathers he must abandon this fashion. The new furniture of mod? ern style to which Turkey has be? come ro devoted postulates home somewhat after the idea of Europe ! or America. The new food and the I new ways, all are insidiously under I cutting the old order. The dress of the women offers per I haps the best illustration of this. Most Moslem women H die along the streets like water birds on land, draped from head to heO in hideous black ezars. Whether they are old or young, homely or handsome, nobody can tell. This custom involves mys? teries which no mere man can solve. How two heavily veiled women can recognize each other on the street is I beyond comprehension. Sometimes the veils are getting perilously thin, I in the case of the younger women ! and their wearers do not hesitate to j stare at their pleasure on foreign men. j 3ecause she is robed so outlandish ly on the street is no reason why the " Moslem woman has not the eternal j ter say that, there ;s now or the Boj phorus a new rlassi'V&tiOD of war ?hips?"first class, second class asd secoud-hand." They tell u that the Young Turks were afraid to trust themselves to bring the r-hips from Germany, so they had (if rmau o.Tw ers man them until just outside the Dar danslles, where they ran up the Tur? kish tlag The German officer? de? manded two hundred ai fifty ? t .c and marks for their services and re? fused to haul down the Turkish flas until the sum was paid. Rumor has it that one of the ships broke down en route. At any rate, the Turkish gov? ernment paid the money and the ships' sailed uo the Bosphorus, streaming bright new crescent flags behind them.| That New Turkey has BOa&Stfcing 'o learn in the way of naval administra tion was evident from a little expe? rience of my own. Late one night 1 had need to cross the Bosphorus in a smaV st and the boatman ran close to r f the new warships. Instead of turning a searchlight on to us a dozen men began to yell to warn us off. For two or three minutes there seemed to be a small riot on the ship, but not once was there a light flashed on us though the crew's fear was that we might be Greeks bearing torpedos. Of a piece with this bit of adminis? tration was the naive remark of an admiral the other day, that he was obliged to surrender his place on a naval board in order to go to the in? terior to take charge of a military barracks. Cholera, Rat-Traps and Religion. The cholera Is raging in Constanti? nople at present and it affords an op? portunity of observing the difference between the old and the new. Lime is sprinkled in the gutters by the city but, for the most part, the people who, bo far as the Moslem population are concerned, are arrant fatalists, say 'Kismet," and do not amend {.heir unsanitary ways. That modern scien? tific knowledge is beginning to perco? late is shown by the lively sale of rat traps which street venders display as a sort of cholera cur s, explaining that the cholera germs are carried by rats _I Constantinople and Its Beautiful Harbor. feminine interest in dress. One of their sisters came along the other day wearing a "Merry Widow" hat and a hobble skirt and as I passed I noticed these queer veiled figures stop and turn and look as long as the new fashions were in sight. What will happen to the economic system in Turkey with its low scale of income when husbands have to pay for Paris millinery and their wives have a right to wear them, is more than I can project. Immediately after the revolution many Moslem women took off their veils as they appeared in public places. Such is the state of the Tur? kish mind, nowever, to oe aescnned by no other words better than by the English phrase "absolutely rotten"? that this could not endure. A Turkish official himself explained to me the reason why he could not hope for the unveiling of the women for a generation or two. The men of today are utterly devoid of western ideals concerning womanhood. What western women, who understand the language, have to endure as they travel and live in Turkey, has never yet been written. It needs a new mind in the people before some of the conditions that are the Kalt of civiliza? tion eaa fully obtain in Turkey. New Warships and Some Stories. Almost bumping into the ancient na? tive crafts of the Bosphorus are a number of new warships of which Tur? key Is very proud. The Turk loves weapons, big and little. YVi lie the order for disarmament has gone out, it yet remains true that in the cities as well as in the rural parti men "tote a gun" as they say in Texas, and carry a knife stuck into the vol? uminous glidlo. 1 never traveled with a pistol in my belt in plain sight un? til I went out Into tho interior of Turkey where every man has to be his own policeman. With this warlike disposition it is natural that the 'lurks should be In terested in their fleet. Their pride in the two Warships recently purchased from Germany la n >! woolly shared h. the foroi ?? community. The lab adquarters in rhu ?confusing the ruboaic plague with cholera. As is well known, there It a direct relationship between cholera and Islam, for Mecca is the seat of the plague. All pilgrims bathe in a holy well at Mecca which analysis has shown, contains more germs than the sewage of London. That holy water is carried over the empire and dump? ed into the village wells. A more dia? bolical scheme for inoculating a na? tion with disease can scarcely be con? trived, yet the faithful will not per? mit the government to touch this sacred well. Of course there Is modern medicine in Turkey and by a new law nobody is allowed to practice without a di? ploma. None the less the faith In charms abides and I have seen graves and specially sacred trees, covered with rags from the bodies of diseased persons, who hope thereby to obtain a cure in exactly the same fashion as that prevailing in Japan and Corea. Probably the most satisfactory archaeological museum in the world is that at Constantinople, with man; priceless treasures. Yet this collec tit n has been made by taking toll ot the enterprise and learning of west? ern nations and educational lnstitu tions. All arcl aeologists at work in the Turkish empire aro obliged to give the government first choice of all their finds. In sharp contrast With this wonderful museum :s the fact that all over Asia Minor priceless srchaelogical relics in the way of in? scriptions and statues, are to this day being broken up and burned to make lime for the villagers. New Turkey must go a long way be? fore the finds herself standing in iho equality of fellowship with the wide awake and enlightened nations of the world. (Copyright. Ml, by Joseph P.. BowtsoJ A Conaiatert Change. 'My dentist has : :\ i \ o 1 is ? ? fession and gene i bualm *s '* "1 s. a. BttU tr? out of his patrons'