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A SUMMER ATERNOON IN THE ETERNAL 0.7 Penetrating the Bowels of the Eai and Peering With Lighted Tapera Into the Tombs of Martyrs and Saints. When may the tourist visit Rom Any time, rather than miss a sig of this glorious old city. February, March and .April a the fashionable months, with the Ca nival, Lent and Easter as the fe tures. Most visitors leave at the ei of April, when the season at the Ito ian lakes begins, and there is a sho season at Florence, from the midd of March to the middle of May. ' the conventional traveller, with plei ty of time and money, these seasoi are important epochs. Transier Americans may be seen during Ma: June, July and the beginning of At gust, but from the middle of Augu until the end of September is th quietest time in the year as regard visitors. During this period, althoug a few of the larger hotels are close( galleries, churches and all the intei esti.ng places are lopen as in th height of the season. Now the ocea, ional traveller is monarch of all h surveys. le is in no danger of be ing snubbed by an English lori / jostled by a German baron, or of hav ing his feelings disturbed by ou wealliy hut unsophisticated brothel who compares the Coliseum with hi home Auditorium, to the grievous de triment. of the former. Rome and the adjacent Campagni have never been thought of as fi places for a summer outing. Never theless if a little care is exercised, thi writer can see no reason why ont should not at any time take a summei run into this region of absorbing in, terest. This is not the time for th( conscientious and hard-working sight. seer, whose head keeps a continua seesaw het ween hableker and bewild erin bonwers. biut rather for Ili easygoing trav-eler, who is content. t( breathe open barouche, absorbing a! much of the panorama as he may When le leaves Iis enrirage, it i: not for an unending picture galler to weary the eyes and weaken the back, but rather for a peep into somi cool chureh, or to rest in one of thi next excursions. If lie stin at mid (lay gets uncomfortably warm, on may drive under the shadow of som, cooling fountain, and, in case i chances to be the Trevi, the statue o Ocean seated in a shell drawn b sea-horses and guided by Triton, makes a suggestive background fo the splashing waters. Or severa hours may be spent upon the com manding mount of the Juniculuf with the whole Eternal City at one' feet, each historic spot ready fo identificati.y upon the map. Whe the eye tires if this, 'here is the all surounding Campagna, with the hoi izon yirded by cypress covered hillh like a fit ti ng frame to a glorious pi< lire. Rome a Healthy Capitsi. R -me isk w one of t he healthie capitals of 1 urope, with an i abundar supply of pure water brought from great distance. Trhe city is ke.pt scru; ulously clean, and drains into til 'Tibcr, whieb has been neatly en hanked .ntd it s channel deepened. TI: governmiienit is now construct in dramints that will ope,n ito the riv< several miles below the city. In ave ntcen year th~le heonmet er does mi get m ili lhr t han 80 degrees 1 or perhiaps ohecasionaIlly 110 degrees 1' hut thle ights are nearely aelways co( Consi dern g thIiese fact A it ha rd] seems a very riskyi mafter to vis Roe'i ini summer, especially if or will avoid overfa tigue and exercise littlec discetion ini eat ing and drini in z. IIf it is het at midday, rest shiou be (enj(ined '(, and evenmi tg exeu rsiol had bett en be avoided. D)uring k gust there are uisually' two or thri sirioc (oe', or hot windi~s, lasting a eo 11e otf das and these are very 0 pressive'. Then(q t he t raveller may w< retire to somiie of the mountain r sorts a few lhours from the cityv. Whi OneC may thus13 heat a judicious treat, fte prospeet of fairly co< pleasant weathler at any time of smt mier is suiffiieent to tmpt the tonri in Switz.erland or the Tyrol to ri down to Roame and1 take the ebane There is somethiung i.n the sight this old city and older civihizati that stirs the blood, t.aking one c of every-da'y life and the hum-dri grind of existence. What more c ibe asked as vacation pastime? A Self-Discovered Jehu. Our barouche is at the door, a the 1"iver is ready for the usual ternioon excursioni. We are proud our Johu, for we discovered hi The officeious and allknowing "p ter"' had no hand in this. One mno ing after strolling through the Ca tol and out upon the\Piazza del Ca idoglio, ho appeared before us, t< ing what we should do, and wh<e we should go next. As it happor that this was exactly what we wi to know, he has since been our ora Y. and friend. He is even more tb this-bur devoted slave. When he th dismissed no orders are given, f Ifuiture service, but he always a pears at the right time. We may .. taking luncheon in the little ca fronting St. Peter's, or lost in a labi 39 rinth of streets, when lie seems bt rise up out of the ground for our d liverance. He appears to have stu re ied our habits, or my friend thin r- lie follows us at a convenient di a- tance. Leaving theories as to th id oandor compels the statemont th I- our guide is somewhat dilapidated rt to person. He tells us that lie h le travelled to fardistant New York, r 'o siding several months on the Bov I- cry, where the wine of the countf s did not have so kindly an effect i his native Chianti. He is so goo , natured, so deeply versed in ancier history, that, altlhough our "'po t tier" says he overcharges us, we r e main faithful to him. Besides, is n( s his lingo worth an extra lire? We start for a somewhat extende jaunt upon this particular afternoo ias lhe air is clear and the heati 0 dissipated by a breeze. Passing tl - Colliseum, before which we alway a stop, and under the magnificent Are - of Constantine, we speed along tL Via di S. Gregorio, at the margin c - the Palatine Hill, till the Via Di E r Sebastiano is reaklhed. This soo brings us to the Baths of Caracella one of the most imposi>ng ruins i - Rome. A half hour is well spent her in strolling through the immens spaces, with thbe inlaid floor intac in places, and imagining the plea sure that 1,600 Romans might hav had on a similar August day so man centuries ago. Next through the Port S. Sebastiano, and on the famous Ap pain Way, as hard and clean as i built yesterday, to the Catacombs o St. Callistus. We penetrate th earth, and peer with lighted taper into the tombs of martyr and sain The fat, good-natured monk who i our guide, spurred on by prospect a an extra fee in this dull time, takes u to an unusual depth an( along gallei ics not oflen visited. 11ere some tomlb are still closed in, with the originn inscriptions on the cement that cover the tufa. Ile is much amused at th "Meester Yankees," as lie calls u - who have so unexpectedly droppei down npon him, and responds in kin when we joke with him upon th1 t lugubrious nature of his oceupatioi f The Footprints of Christ. It is a relief to come out into ti soft air and sunlight, and drive alon r the Camnpagna to the Church of E Sebast.iano. We pause a while in ti gloomy edifice and inspect the -reli< that are presented to our view, ir s eluding stone footprints of Chris r There are small catacombs under ti church, and, mindful of the catechi; ~ ing' that awaite usby our Jehu 11 stlumble through the valuts, :eady I imve a account of ourselves when '. retrn to the carriage. Anid :now, il on consult at ion with our guide, n fimnd wve can skirt aceross the Campat na by the Via Delia Sette Chiese all treach St. Paul's without the wall a We quite enjoy thme much-maligne - Campagna, wvith its wide stretches< e grassy, untilled space, where wid< - horned cattle apparently r.oamrn e will. Thea there are glimpses of tl g dlistanit hills, crowned with white vi r lages, the houses elustering close t< gether' as if for pr'otectioni, ori tfom a fitting background for il We reach St. Paul's too soon, 11 arc recompensed for the loss of ou >l, HART Wtometa Moodu of pi H ramtl WoodW ed loin ,C iln,S the BilinHAtrial ,le side beauty by the xpete an splendors of Greek marble*'Qnolith i within. We finally push 9U(o reacl or the Abbey of "Tre Fon'tsiUe," 01 be the road to Ostia. As w6 driv4 fe through the gates and findk crselvei Y- in a space rich with v4rq anc to foliage one is reminded 'f ,oasis d- For ma.ny years Trappist monks havi ks been- draining the soil, and.,lantinp s- vineyards. Since 1870 they have de tp voted much attention to the eultiva tion of the eucalyptus tree on ac is count of its supposed activity in dry. a.. ing the earth .and dissipating malaria v- We sat under these trees, breathing Y in balsamic odors as one of the moikq i told us the story of this interesting tt experiment in practical sanitation. r While in former years the inmates - were obliged to return every after t noon to Rome, they now spend sever al nights in each week at the Abbey. We went into the church to look at the three miraculous fountains, w1hici are said to have spru-ng up where tle 's head of St. Paul touched the ground h1 at his martyrdom, and then into the e refectory to sample the good monks' f wine and ward off malaria by sipping - their eucalyptus cordial. It seems that in 1880 a penal establishment , was placed by the Government in ' this locality, but even with the euca lyptus trees and the best hygienic o surroundings, the inmates were at t ticked by malaria, so that, in spite of the monks, there is still some e doubt as to the beneficial effects of Y 'tie eucalypti. They are also difficult to cultivate, and uncertain in thriv ing. We wandered through the f grounds. guided to various shady f nooks by our friend, the monk, who E listened to our tale of travel, and, in s turn, told us of various incidents in his line. s Monks a Curious Lot. s These monks that one sees every where in this region are a curious lot. Some seem to bear evidence of stern 1 self-sacrifice, others of dirt and de s gradation, while not . a few, with e well-padded forms and sensual faces, show actual acquaintance with the world and the flesh, if not of the d evil. With coarse habit and san e dalled feet, they shuffle through the streets, kneel in the churches or act as guides, and always form a pictur esque feature in the scene. Oa the e whole, they seem a contented folk, -ind doubtless expect high rank in some celestial hierarchy. Our stay at e "The Fontaine" was delayed until s very late, owing to the interest and beauty of the scene. When at last we strolled through the gate the dusk e was gathering, witih dark clouds roll ing up over the Campagna. Drawing e on our overcoats, the tired horse was 0 speeded on in hopes of escaping the e shower. The clouds were faster than our eqjuip)ageI however, andl we were sooni in the midst of the wind and storm. The dust curled along the d highway, quickly chased by the pour ing rain, while the mists were rising from the distant marshes. There is a sort of peculiar desolation in a storm on the Campagna. We drewv our twraps a little closer 'while our driyer h ashed, the horse. Just as we rattled through the Port.a S. Paolo the even in.g sun escaped from the clouds and olit up the dark Campagna to the dis ta.nt Albanian hills. We were ony~fce more within thie t- , James T. Bacon. SYIL LE lacturinig Co., ILLE, S. C. >r and Window Scre ens, Furned and Scroll Work, ork, Mantels, Mouldings, ding, and everything ir Line. ulries and drders. Out anship is good, and out Manufacturing Coo, / ILLE. B. C. e rw the Line This tale relates *o a bihop, 'costed'iii :Fifth avenue by a neat but hqgry stranger, derived profit from the encounter. The bishop, so runs the yaruf took the needy one to a hotel and share4 4 a gorgeous dinner with bim, yet, hav- i ing left his episcopal wallet in the I pocket of a different episcopal pack. et, suddenly waked the embarrass ment of not possessing the where It Pays the L any $5,OOO,ooo.oo The Paci More than is a It wrote (paid for business) over being nearly as much as any thrc "Old Line Basis." It is now dol over $13,000,000.00 Assets, ov( The stockholders who are well 000,000.00 are personally li for all the debts of the Comp offered only by the Pacific M Under these -same laws the d Funds must be invested in nc funds are under bonds. EN Gentlemen: Answering your letter of the Pacific Mutual of California, and have the opportunity. The GUARANTEED I much superior to the Annual Div ferred Stock." The Pacific Mutual Life has of any American Life Company. MOF Call at my office and I will tell you more about it. Office over Old Postoffice, Ne wonderful gair fourth inillion p gain of one-third chewing and tobacco in the States. a.~~ J . I0.s oae viil to PAyMP'.."Never mind, ' ex. 0limed his guest, "I have enjoyed lining with you, and I shall be charm. )d to shoulder the cost. Pemit me.' Whereupon the stranger paid(or two 'his worried the prelate, who insist. id, "Just let me call a cab and we'll 'uW) up to my hotel, where I shall iave the -pleasure of reimbursing roU.'" But the- stranger. met the sug restion with, "See here, old- manl (ou've stuck ,me for a bully good .rgest Divid( Life Compa is part of the i offered by fic Mut ffered by any other Lii $6,000,000.00 of new businec e other companies wrote. It ,ig business in more than 40 5 hr $100,000,000.00 of busine. known and conservatively esi Lble In an unlimited degree, ac any; extra security requir utual Life Insurance CompC irectors are liable for the w mn-speculative securities. VIABLE OPINI( PRIVATE OFFICE DHN WANNAMAKER PHILADELPHIA. 8th, I am well satisfied with tl sha I not hesitate to recommei Very respectfully yc onual Dividend Policy-pe< Idend contract as the latter Is tha best Legal organization, ?AL-HAVE T1HE BE! ROBERT wiberry, S. C. G the --given in next will the SCHNAPPE the Reynolds'1 by Internal Re for a fiscal yes of six and one ounds, or a net of the entire umption of snmoking United 00O. dinner, but hanged if I'm going to le you stick me for cab fare 1' '--Boston Transeript. At tpe Matriimonial bureau. "These ladies -are all eligible "I hardly think I can go, amiss. "Then, how about a nice, affe cionate widder?'-Washington Her ald. .nds Paid by' ny. 3xtra protection pal Life, !e Company. s in California (its home State), was organized 40 years ago on 'tstes and Territories. It has 3s in force. imated to be worth;over $50,-, ;cording to their stock holdings, ed only by California Laws, and my of Los Angeles, California. rotgful acts of the officers. Officers handling Company )N January 9th, 1903. ie results of my policy in The id your Company whenever I urs, JOHN WANNAMAKER. :uliar with the Pacific-is as to the "Tontine." It Is "Pre mnd gives the greatest guarantee NT. r NORRIS, en. Agt. for South Carolina. Lewers who read information ini this space week's paper n know why i and other of brands, as shown venue statistics tr, made the