The herald and news. (Newberry S.C.) 1903-1937, June 28, 1907, Page SIX, Image 6
A SUMMER ATERNOON
IN THE ETERNAL 0.7
Penetrating the Bowels of the Eai
and Peering With Lighted Tapera
Into the Tombs of Martyrs
and Saints.
When may the tourist visit Rom
Any time, rather than miss a sig
of this glorious old city.
February, March and .April a
the fashionable months, with the Ca
nival, Lent and Easter as the fe
tures. Most visitors leave at the ei
of April, when the season at the Ito
ian lakes begins, and there is a sho
season at Florence, from the midd
of March to the middle of May. '
the conventional traveller, with plei
ty of time and money, these seasoi
are important epochs. Transier
Americans may be seen during Ma:
June, July and the beginning of At
gust, but from the middle of Augu
until the end of September is th
quietest time in the year as regard
visitors. During this period, althoug
a few of the larger hotels are close(
galleries, churches and all the intei
esti.ng places are lopen as in th
height of the season. Now the ocea,
ional traveller is monarch of all h
surveys. le is in no danger of be
ing snubbed by an English lori
/ jostled by a German baron, or of hav
ing his feelings disturbed by ou
wealliy hut unsophisticated brothel
who compares the Coliseum with hi
home Auditorium, to the grievous de
triment. of the former.
Rome and the adjacent Campagni
have never been thought of as fi
places for a summer outing. Never
theless if a little care is exercised, thi
writer can see no reason why ont
should not at any time take a summei
run into this region of absorbing in,
terest. This is not the time for th(
conscientious and hard-working sight.
seer, whose head keeps a continua
seesaw het ween hableker and bewild
erin bonwers. biut rather for Ili
easygoing trav-eler, who is content. t(
breathe open barouche, absorbing a!
much of the panorama as he may
When le leaves Iis enrirage, it i:
not for an unending picture galler
to weary the eyes and weaken the
back, but rather for a peep into somi
cool chureh, or to rest in one of thi
next excursions. If lie stin at mid
(lay gets uncomfortably warm, on
may drive under the shadow of som,
cooling fountain, and, in case i
chances to be the Trevi, the statue o
Ocean seated in a shell drawn b
sea-horses and guided by Triton,
makes a suggestive background fo
the splashing waters. Or severa
hours may be spent upon the com
manding mount of the Juniculuf
with the whole Eternal City at one'
feet, each historic spot ready fo
identificati.y upon the map. Whe
the eye tires if this, 'here is the all
surounding Campagna, with the hoi
izon yirded by cypress covered hillh
like a fit ti ng frame to a glorious pi<
lire.
Rome a Healthy Capitsi.
R -me isk w one of t he healthie
capitals of 1 urope, with an i abundar
supply of pure water brought from
great distance. Trhe city is ke.pt scru;
ulously clean, and drains into til
'Tibcr, whieb has been neatly en
hanked .ntd it s channel deepened. TI:
governmiienit is now construct in
dramints that will ope,n ito the riv<
several miles below the city. In ave
ntcen year th~le heonmet er does mi
get m ili lhr t han 80 degrees 1
or perhiaps ohecasionaIlly 110 degrees 1'
hut thle ights are nearely aelways co(
Consi dern g thIiese fact A it ha rd]
seems a very riskyi mafter to vis
Roe'i ini summer, especially if or
will avoid overfa tigue and exercise
littlec discetion ini eat ing and drini
in z. IIf it is het at midday, rest shiou
be (enj(ined '(, and evenmi tg exeu rsiol
had bett en be avoided. D)uring k
gust there are uisually' two or thri
sirioc (oe', or hot windi~s, lasting a eo
11e otf das and these are very 0
pressive'. Then(q t he t raveller may w<
retire to somiie of the mountain r
sorts a few lhours from the cityv. Whi
OneC may thus13 heat a judicious
treat, fte prospeet of fairly co<
pleasant weathler at any time of smt
mier is suiffiieent to tmpt the tonri
in Switz.erland or the Tyrol to ri
down to Roame and1 take the ebane
There is somethiung i.n the sight
this old city and older civihizati
that stirs the blood, t.aking one c
of every-da'y life and the hum-dri
grind of existence. What more c
ibe asked as vacation pastime?
A Self-Discovered Jehu.
Our barouche is at the door, a
the 1"iver is ready for the usual
ternioon excursioni. We are proud
our Johu, for we discovered hi
The officeious and allknowing "p
ter"' had no hand in this. One mno
ing after strolling through the Ca
tol and out upon the\Piazza del Ca
idoglio, ho appeared before us, t<
ing what we should do, and wh<e
we should go next. As it happor
that this was exactly what we wi
to know, he has since been our ora
Y. and friend. He is even more tb
this-bur devoted slave. When he
th dismissed no orders are given, f
Ifuiture service, but he always a
pears at the right time. We may
.. taking luncheon in the little ca
fronting St. Peter's, or lost in a labi
39 rinth of streets, when lie seems
bt rise up out of the ground for our d
liverance. He appears to have stu
re ied our habits, or my friend thin
r- lie follows us at a convenient di
a- tance. Leaving theories as to th
id oandor compels the statemont th
I- our guide is somewhat dilapidated
rt to person. He tells us that lie h
le travelled to fardistant New York, r
'o siding several months on the Bov
I- cry, where the wine of the countf
s did not have so kindly an effect i
his native Chianti. He is so goo
, natured, so deeply versed in ancier
history, that, altlhough our "'po
t tier" says he overcharges us, we r
e main faithful to him. Besides, is n(
s his lingo worth an extra lire?
We start for a somewhat extende
jaunt upon this particular afternoo
ias lhe air is clear and the heati
0 dissipated by a breeze. Passing tl
- Colliseum, before which we alway
a stop, and under the magnificent Are
- of Constantine, we speed along tL
Via di S. Gregorio, at the margin c
- the Palatine Hill, till the Via Di E
r Sebastiano is reaklhed. This soo
brings us to the Baths of Caracella
one of the most imposi>ng ruins i
- Rome. A half hour is well spent her
in strolling through the immens
spaces, with thbe inlaid floor intac
in places, and imagining the plea
sure that 1,600 Romans might hav
had on a similar August day so man
centuries ago. Next through the Port
S. Sebastiano, and on the famous Ap
pain Way, as hard and clean as i
built yesterday, to the Catacombs o
St. Callistus. We penetrate th
earth, and peer with lighted taper
into the tombs of martyr and sain
The fat, good-natured monk who i
our guide, spurred on by prospect a
an extra fee in this dull time, takes u
to an unusual depth an( along gallei
ics not oflen visited. 11ere some tomlb
are still closed in, with the originn
inscriptions on the cement that cover
the tufa. Ile is much amused at th
"Meester Yankees," as lie calls u
- who have so unexpectedly droppei
down npon him, and responds in kin
when we joke with him upon th1
t lugubrious nature of his oceupatioi
f The Footprints of Christ.
It is a relief to come out into ti
soft air and sunlight, and drive alon
r the Camnpagna to the Church of E
Sebast.iano. We pause a while in ti
gloomy edifice and inspect the -reli<
that are presented to our view, ir
s eluding stone footprints of Chris
r There are small catacombs under ti
church, and, mindful of the catechi;
~ ing' that awaite usby our Jehu 11
stlumble through the valuts, :eady I
imve a account of ourselves when '.
retrn to the carriage. Anid :now, il
on consult at ion with our guide, n
fimnd wve can skirt aceross the Campat
na by the Via Delia Sette Chiese all
treach St. Paul's without the wall
a We quite enjoy thme much-maligne
- Campagna, wvith its wide stretches<
e grassy, untilled space, where wid<
- horned cattle apparently r.oamrn
e will. Thea there are glimpses of tl
g dlistanit hills, crowned with white vi
r lages, the houses elustering close t<
gether' as if for pr'otectioni, ori
tfom a fitting background for il
We reach St. Paul's too soon, 11
arc recompensed for the loss of ou
>l,
HART
Wtometa Moodu
of
pi
H ramtl WoodW
ed loin ,C iln,S
the BilinHAtrial
,le side beauty by the xpete
an splendors of Greek marble*'Qnolith
i within. We finally push 9U(o reacl
or the Abbey of "Tre Fon'tsiUe," 01
be the road to Ostia. As w6 driv4
fe through the gates and findk crselvei
Y- in a space rich with v4rq anc
to foliage one is reminded 'f ,oasis
d- For ma.ny years Trappist monks havi
ks been- draining the soil, and.,lantinp
s- vineyards. Since 1870 they have de
tp voted much attention to the eultiva
tion of the eucalyptus tree on ac
is count of its supposed activity in dry.
a.. ing the earth .and dissipating malaria
v- We sat under these trees, breathing
Y in balsamic odors as one of the moikq
i told us the story of this interesting
tt experiment in practical sanitation.
r While in former years the inmates
- were obliged to return every after
t noon to Rome, they now spend sever
al nights in each week at the Abbey.
We went into the church to look at
the three miraculous fountains, w1hici
are said to have spru-ng up where tle
's head of St. Paul touched the ground
h1 at his martyrdom, and then into the
e refectory to sample the good monks'
f wine and ward off malaria by sipping
- their eucalyptus cordial. It seems
that in 1880 a penal establishment
, was placed by the Government in
' this locality, but even with the euca
lyptus trees and the best hygienic
o surroundings, the inmates were at
t ticked by malaria, so that, in spite
of the monks, there is still some
e doubt as to the beneficial effects of
Y 'tie eucalypti. They are also difficult
to cultivate, and uncertain in thriv
ing. We wandered through the
f grounds. guided to various shady
f nooks by our friend, the monk, who
E listened to our tale of travel, and, in
s turn, told us of various incidents in
his line.
s Monks a Curious Lot.
s These monks that one sees every
where in this region are a curious lot.
Some seem to bear evidence of stern
1 self-sacrifice, others of dirt and de
s gradation, while not . a few, with
e well-padded forms and sensual faces,
show actual acquaintance with the
world and the flesh, if not of the
d evil. With coarse habit and san
e dalled feet, they shuffle through the
streets, kneel in the churches or act
as guides, and always form a pictur
esque feature in the scene. Oa the
e whole, they seem a contented folk,
-ind doubtless expect high rank in
some celestial hierarchy. Our stay at
e "The Fontaine" was delayed until
s very late, owing to the interest and
beauty of the scene. When at last
we strolled through the gate the dusk
e was gathering, witih dark clouds roll
ing up over the Campagna. Drawing
e on our overcoats, the tired horse was
0 speeded on in hopes of escaping the
e shower. The clouds were faster than
our eqjuip)ageI however, andl we were
sooni in the midst of the wind and
storm. The dust curled along the
d highway, quickly chased by the pour
ing rain, while the mists were rising
from the distant marshes. There is a
sort of peculiar desolation in a storm
on the Campagna. We drewv our
twraps a little closer 'while our driyer
h ashed, the horse. Just as we rattled
through the Port.a S. Paolo the even
in.g sun escaped from the clouds and
olit up the dark Campagna to the dis
ta.nt Albanian hills.
We were ony~fce more within thie
t- , James T. Bacon.
SYIL LE
lacturinig Co.,
ILLE, S. C.
>r and Window Scre ens,
Furned and Scroll Work,
ork, Mantels, Mouldings,
ding, and everything ir
Line.
ulries and drders. Out
anship is good, and out
Manufacturing Coo,
/ ILLE. B. C.
e rw the Line
This tale relates *o a bihop,
'costed'iii :Fifth avenue by a neat but
hqgry stranger, derived profit from
the encounter.
The bishop, so runs the yaruf took
the needy one to a hotel and share4 4
a gorgeous dinner with bim, yet, hav- i
ing left his episcopal wallet in the I
pocket of a different episcopal pack.
et, suddenly waked the embarrass
ment of not possessing the where
It Pays the L
any
$5,OOO,ooo.oo
The Paci
More than is a
It wrote (paid for business) over
being nearly as much as any thrc
"Old Line Basis." It is now dol
over $13,000,000.00 Assets, ov(
The stockholders who are well
000,000.00 are personally li
for all the debts of the Comp
offered only by the Pacific M
Under these -same laws the d
Funds must be invested in nc
funds are under bonds.
EN
Gentlemen:
Answering your letter of the
Pacific Mutual of California, and
have the opportunity.
The GUARANTEED I
much superior to the Annual Div
ferred Stock."
The Pacific Mutual Life has
of any American Life Company.
MOF
Call at my office and I will
tell you more about it.
Office over Old Postoffice, Ne
wonderful gair
fourth inillion p
gain of one-third
chewing and
tobacco in the
States.
a.~~ J . I0.s oae
viil to PAyMP'.."Never mind, ' ex.
0limed his guest, "I have enjoyed
lining with you, and I shall be charm.
)d to shoulder the cost. Pemit me.'
Whereupon the stranger paid(or two
'his worried the prelate, who insist.
id, "Just let me call a cab and we'll
'uW) up to my hotel, where I shall
iave the -pleasure of reimbursing
roU.'" But the- stranger. met the sug
restion with, "See here, old- manl
(ou've stuck ,me for a bully good
.rgest Divid(
Life Compa
is part of the i
offered by
fic Mut
ffered by any other Lii
$6,000,000.00 of new businec
e other companies wrote. It
,ig business in more than 40 5
hr $100,000,000.00 of busine.
known and conservatively esi
Lble In an unlimited degree, ac
any; extra security requir
utual Life Insurance CompC
irectors are liable for the w
mn-speculative securities.
VIABLE OPINI(
PRIVATE OFFICE
DHN WANNAMAKER
PHILADELPHIA.
8th, I am well satisfied with tl
sha I not hesitate to recommei
Very respectfully yc
onual Dividend Policy-pe<
Idend contract as the latter Is
tha best Legal organization,
?AL-HAVE T1HE BE!
ROBERT
wiberry, S. C. G
the
--given
in next
will the
SCHNAPPE
the Reynolds'1
by Internal Re
for a fiscal yes
of six and one
ounds, or a net
of the entire
umption of
snmoking
United
00O.
dinner, but hanged if I'm going to le
you stick me for cab fare 1' '--Boston
Transeript.
At tpe Matriimonial bureau.
"These ladies -are all eligible
"I hardly think I can go, amiss.
"Then, how about a nice, affe
cionate widder?'-Washington Her
ald.
.nds Paid by'
ny.
3xtra protection
pal Life,
!e Company.
s in California (its home State),
was organized 40 years ago on
'tstes and Territories. It has
3s in force.
imated to be worth;over $50,-,
;cording to their stock holdings,
ed only by California Laws, and
my of Los Angeles, California.
rotgful acts of the officers.
Officers handling Company
)N
January 9th, 1903.
ie results of my policy in The
id your Company whenever I
urs,
JOHN WANNAMAKER.
:uliar with the Pacific-is as
to the "Tontine." It Is "Pre
mnd gives the greatest guarantee
NT.
r NORRIS,
en. Agt. for South Carolina.
Lewers who read
information
ini this space
week's paper
n know why
i and other of
brands, as shown
venue statistics
tr, made the