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What's a F Naturally, everyone k n o w s what a fad is. It's a new fashion that hits with force and-often -without sense. It can be a hula hoop, a craze for together ness in a phone booth, or a bee hive hairdo. It's extreme and it's ubiquitous: a color, a phrase, a style that surrounds us, drowns us. So how does a fad become a trend? By settling down, get ting rid of its rough edges and w I a c k y overtones, becoming legitimately attractive. M o s t fads never make it. They come and go in a matter of months. 'rends arrive slowly and stay for years. Which brings us to the cur rent point: the Italian Look now qualifies as a legitimate trend. When it arrived, as a fad, a few seasons back, it was extreme to put it mildly. Our clothes be came form fitting, our eyes were sooty, our lips disappeared. Now this look has mellowed. Today it is less extreme, more gentle, Im o r e versatile. We no longer t r y to out - Italian the Italians. In makeup. emphasis is still on the eyes. But now we are more subtle and more skillful. With the heavy look toned down for daytime. eyes are still em phatic. (The Italians taught us what we should h a v e known: eyes are our most important fea ture and speak more eloquently -and with f e w e r mistakes tlhan mouths.) Lips are full and softly colored, not sharp a n d brilliant. Lipstick shades tend to rosy or pure beige. Basically, the 119C1 fashion look can he described as the Vital Look. This means an air of typically American vitality and excitement beneath a surface sophistication. Hawaiian Fun At Su 'Esquire' For Of Once-Uset BY 0. E. NCilOEFFlER Fashion D)irector of 'Esquiire' Magazine Not so long ago, the univer sity man ( or any rnan, for that matter) had a simple choice to make: [Dress to be in fashion . . . or dress for comlfort. This spring he insists on both quali ties in one outfit . . . and what the man wants, the man gets. Seersuckers Iteborn The return olf the seersucker suit illuast rates this fashion with comfort theme. Ideas in campus fashion have a wvay of running in cycles. Many years back seer sucker suits were the main event in e v e r y college man's ward robe. Then t h e y disappeared from the scene. Now, brought up to (late by the textile magicians, seersucker is back on campus, bigger and better than ever. Trhe seersucker fabric, with its slightly crinkled texture, comes in all-cotton or in blends of cot ton and man-made fiber. Its very lightweight combines maximum comfort with excellent shape re taining qualities. Traditionally seen in stripes of blue, grey, or brown with white, seersucker is showing more pattern variety these days through the use of small Glen Urqhart plaids... particularly in the grey and white combination. D)enim Again Denim is a n ot h e r campus wardlrobe f a b r i c representing many turns of fashion's wvheel over the years. Originally used for wol~ -!9W.;,,, denim has b e e n refined to a soft, light weight, and v e r y comfortable multiple - purpose fabric. Seen mostly in a soft, faded blue shade, denim's versatility is dem onstrated by it.s many uses-in trim cut slacks, Bermuda shorts, 'ad? When' In hair fashions, the hallmark of the Vital Look is hair art fully abbreviated in length, sleek and cheeky in form, and for ward looking in direction. Re member that hair will still be short this Spring, but definitely not cropped . . . in other words, a little longer than in the past but still on the short side. Color plays a dominant role in the Vital Look. At a recent Clai rol press show in New York, all phases of the haircoloring spec truiml were shown, from blonde to black velvet. In footwear the slim elegance of the Italian pointed toe is still tops. And our success with Ital in styles is now authenticated: for tUp first time, the Fiera di Ronia (Italy's noted tra(le fair) awarded its first prize to an American shoe company, A. S. Beck. Line, always the most vital feature of any fashion, continues to be soft. This is one reason for the extensive use of fake fur tsoftly flattering!) on coats, suits, dresses, and shoes. Dresses are bias cut to reveal-but not exploit- the figure. (Note that the Italians did not give us the sack. They could not have!) Diungarees and chunky sweat ers are still fine for s p o r t s events. But today's basic styles demand that girls be girls. The divided skirt, which gives free dom without a masculine look, is a case in point. Now to the fashion futures, the upcoming styler.. On the hori zon are lots of capes, including many on suit jackets . . . slashed seams which are seductive in a hldylike way . . . colors in tones of p u r p 1 e an(l lavendar (no longer an old lady's shade) and melting into pink. . . . lots of University ( mmer Schoo esees Return I Materials and1( pa rticuila rly s p 0 r t jackets hat go remarkably well with many different types shirts and slacks. India Madras Without End IUniversi ty men have been con sistent in their pre'feence for soft, muted or conservative col orng s. This no 0doubt accounts for the keen interest in I ndia .\ladrlas. Thliis rot ton fabric... authe(nt ically imported from Ini di a and also adlapted in Anmeri (anl weaiVng . . . is marked wvith m a ny di ffer en t plaid p)atterns, some large anid irxregular and ot hers small in dimension. All have the characteristic sub)tlety of color, soft andl muted in tone. Madras has gained in popular camipda accep)tance through ex tensive use in the wideCly worn button-dowvn model shirts... many in a short sleeve pullover style with a button placket part way dlown the front. These shirts are equally fashionable in the classroom, for wveekend wvear, and wherever home is during sum mner vacation. Th"le same fabric has a I s o (aught on in walk shorts. Tomorrow While nobody can really pre dict the next exciting fashion for the wvelI-dressed university man, I'd het strongly on the new idea of the Blazer Cardigan... a collarless modlel blazer wit.h a s t r o a g British heritage. It's somel(thling to look for a year or so from now. And wvhile you're looking, keel) an e'ye ope.n for another legacy of H ri ti sh fashions . . . the country clothing colors of "cha mois" and "mustard." Fabric suits with a suede fin ish and glove soft pigskin shoes are two more likely contenders for futuire cmamu poarQity. saTrend? knits with an emphasis on open work . . . fake fur that will go into warm weather as a trim. And note that all of these items fit into the general trend to soft ness. C a m p u s specials? Divided skirts, of course. Mix-and-match outfits will hold their own, with the emphasis on match. The bare-armed look is expected to make gloves an important ac cessory. And now a word from the fashionwise: at Mr. Mort, they predict the culottes replacing Berniuda shorts (length here is just above the knee) ... also jer sey knickers, worn under tweed skirts that b u t t o n down the front or are side-wrapped . . . overblouses and tunics sashed in leather . . . dimensional wools . . . lots of "sweet" colors, such as yellow, pink, and raspberry . . . black ac,-essories used with navy. And an emphasis on the costume look for weekend travel --dress and jacket, or dress and coat. At Ship n' Shore, they predict Color as the number one fashion item: the s h o c k shades tone( down. They feel, too, that the bateau neck, no-sleeve look will he important. Belts will be of special interest - wherever they land, he it waistline, above, or ' below. The e x p e r t s at Nantucket Naturals are predicting contin tied success for the bias-cut top, C the easy sash-tie belt, and the low waistline, plus the collarless v look. They feel here that a noted singer (initials: FS) sums up the current t r e n d with "easy does it." It looks like an ultra-feminine, Pleasant-to-live-with fashion fu ture. And about time! )ffers Sun, ol Sessions Summer session at the world famous University of Hawaii t will convene June 27 through August 6, 1961, at the beautiful I Nlanon e a m p u s in Honolulu, Hawaii, Dr. Robert E. Cralle, t Director of the University Study Tours to llawaii, announced re cently. Air a n d steamship accom modations to handle the hun dreds of imainland students and teachers matriculating to the Is lands for a wonderful summer of study and fun, have been set on all major steamship and air lintes. Reservations for travel and e'nrollment on the Summer session program are, he advisedl, no0w being accepited. Special rates for the six-wveek (54 (lay) Summer session pro gram begin as lowv as $555.00. Round(trip transportation across he P'aci fic leaving from U. S. Gateway cities, air - condiitionedl Waikiki Beach accommodations, plus1 a full schedule of 22 planned activities are included in the p)rice. Off-campus activi ties intcludI(e dinnier dances, Is landit sightsee'ing t r~ i p s , beach Parties, and field t rips. Com plet e in formatio 111ncl udl in g appl)1ica tion forms and ilIlus rated hil letilns are available by writ intg to, Dr. Robert E. Cralle, :t:05 WilIsh ire Boulevard, Los Angeles 5, California. CANDY S g ort 1h Zeust... 19 -Pashion a Poni Vou're pa"d' of ugliness s< Gort!... Intolerable th Behold the we must alter few Style? every six moo ? -P Survey ReN Aren't Usul BY KERRY WOFFORD Assistant Society Editor Although A m e r i c a n s read, vrite, and t a l k a great deal bout love and marriage, in all ikelihood much of what we be ieve a b o u t husband-and-wife elationships simply isn't so. 'hat, at least, is a fair conclu ion to draw from a major new urvey-made at the University ,f Michigan and reported here or the first time-which flatly ontradicts a number of our iost popular beliefs about mar iage. Among the surprises are hese: "Momism," or domination by vomen, in America has been -reatly exaggerated. M e n in :eneral still control their fami ies-although the direction of hange is toward the sharing of uthority by h u s b a n d s and ,ives. Husbands and wives talk ver family decisions with each ther. Until just a few genera ions a g o husbands invariably Ide almost all decisions, and a ew families exist in which that 4 still the case. On the other hand, today there .re nearly as many families in ,,hich wives make almost all de isionls. Hlere, it would seem, is he basis for the popular miscon eption that American husbalnds re dominated by their wives. 'he Michigan study shows, how ver, that inl the great majority f A merican families it is mu ually agreed that some deci ions are to be made by the hus oand and others by the wife, vith the balance still slightly in lie husband's favor. What happens, however, when usbaiid a n d wife disagree ? Jost wives report, that they and Try our Economl fluffi Many11 Uiems' are ready, to use or to) putI away. i s olmbia" ILK COFFEI SAND MANY CONVENIl ATIONS ON CAM DISTRIBLUTING 4 Tut,tut, ...Perhaps...But n Gort... it occurs to me Wou're that you'VO It just -Vorgottn it jealous. one thing... is? 01'96 eals Husban dly 'What T their husbands each yield equally often in making the final deci sion. Today it is not being a man or being a woman as such which confers the right to the final say on any specific sub ject, but individual competence in that area. The henpecked husband is not (uite a myth, however. lie does exist, but the Michigan report makes the point that he is hen pecked because he is incompetent ---not incompetent because he is ieipecked. The henpecked hus hands earn less, know less, have succeeded less and possess less status in their communities than other men. Another surprising contradic tion to popular belief is that money is not the chief reason American womne marry-it is remarkable how low they rate it. When asked by researchers what. t h e y thought was best about marriage, today's women voted first for companionship; second for the chance to have children; third for understanding and emotional support; fourth for love and affection; and fifth for financial benefit. Wives are generally m o r e pleased with their husbands as companions, the more the hus hatnds tell them a b o u t their work, introduce them to business colleagues and friends, and are active with them in the same leisure t i m e organizations. On the negative side substantial age dlifferences are harmful -- hus inds wlo are more than ten years older than their wives or more than four years younger (1o not make the best compan ions. Second o n 1 y to companion siip, wives value in marriage SPEEDY r Service I' fold (8c per pound) Well/NE IDRY & CLEANERS WICHES NT PUS C0.. INC. Oh dear I A headdress? N/AT, ...ut ftar not! pray' I have 6omething tellT here that is absolutely YOU C,, d-Wife Relati hey're Cut 0 the chance to have children. The sid, desired number of children has ine gone up since the depression car years - today's wives want be- D tween two and four. tor Having children will not spo ciment a crumbling union, but ma will only increase the strains on brii it. The Michigan study shows ma that however many children may the fulfill each parent, they also di- are veirt the attention of man and qui wif from each other. hi this re- chil speict, nevertheless, children are are on' y one catuse of a process lon which occurs in every marriage the of the husband and wi!" drawing 7 apart from each other nev Wives are less sati-fied with get! the companionship of their hus- nov bainIs after some years of mar- con riaKe than they fornwly were. the; Passion and companiwiship alike (o teml to fade with the passing of fici, time because of the ht,s of nov- chil elty, the decreasing aI!:1ity to be the stinlated by fatmili:, w o r d s sep and actions, the growth of out- tint A r of "I \I'as a T4 Lorn Lof I) HOW SMALL CAN Today let uis adldren -ourselves t O a <p and roiled the ac:denic wold: Is small college tha At a large college'. To answer this <iuestion it is IeI What, exactly, do we mean 1by a smali that in order to be called truly smal enrollment of not n.re than four sti I certainly htve no quarrel wit student college It 1A un<pest iiol abl: one could even ctll it intimt, if oite But I submit ther' is such a tlinig a instance, a recent i;,ifortinate ocuetir Crimscott A ai,l M, situated in between Denver :id Baltimlore, w: Crimscott, two b-thers who left In potato famine of 1 %4 1. As a re.s.ult o scott brothers ntear went wit lho u t jw their lives-anid i ightty gratefu(l the grat itudile atfter a ;tarty mi eal ofi l''re, browits, anid tat 'S Ltin, theiy dle cd to this bountiful . ud of poIt isb stiputlatedl that em tolbnet shul r 11( because they felt that only by keej bi could1( e'ach stutdent be assutre' of thle caiunarad(erie, the II 'elitng of I,a nying, it higher eduItcation. WVell sir, thliing went along1 swimtrr few years aigo. 4 hI this dait Crim scheduled against Alinnesotj its trad of course, somiethiig of a problem at four students enroliled in the entire c to muster a backield, but finding a line '-baffled the ntost resour ful con Well sir, on the morning e: the bi, its tradlitionail rivanl, a cap)ric; -us dest blow -in facet, f otr cruel I iows. woke tup that miornting with I le breal, slothanck , wats u nablie to start !his mn the wingblack4aiilb,ack, got his neel miachine tt. L aungerha:ns, the ft llback, (Consequently, alas, none ci the Cr Sihe gamie, aund Ai bonesota, it.- traditig almnost att will. (rimnscott w.' so out ately broke toff football relations witi rivalI. This later became known as So you cant see low only four stud enroilbnen'lt. Thie number I l'ersona come? lI('rause when you havi e tw th 'opes a hpark of Marli ou Cigi goi aroundl for env rybodly, atnd no IAharlboro'n s fitne, miild flavor, 'f Mar (f Altrlboiirn's joy ami zest taal ste as a resutlt. you havey a student bod( conltent andl mtiii and harmoiny ani and soft lack oad flip-top) box. . . u'nhiIter'ed innize clgarettesa-jn flew partner i,n pleasure-g/he Ph 0 wad some power the g1ftie gle us, To see ouroil's as Ithers seeuust.. onships it To Be' interests and the husband' reasing commitment to his eer. fore than any of these fac 5, it is children who are re nsible for the corrosion oi' rriage. To begin with they ig many new problems to a rriage, thereby multiplying occasions on which quarrels likely to occur. Next, wives their jobs when the first d arrives, and their husbands apt to be away from home xer or to be preoccupied with ir work even when at home. ypically, honeymooners id ,lyweds do most things to ier, partly because of the el pleasure of each other's ipany and p a r t l y becaus.. 6 are learning which one can each specific chore more ef 'ntly. But with the advent tf dren they abruptly split up r duties and handle then irately, for there is no longer (I to do things side by side. with MaU9hIRM en-aqe Duvirf","The Afany Wle Gillis", etc.) YOU GET? est ion t h:as long rocked a ,tuient better off at a a rV first to (lefine terims. ( college? Well sir, som1ie say 1, a college should lhave an idents5. a thiis statenient; a four " he called siall. Indeed, knew whait intiie mneant. heing too small. Take, for nee at Criiscott A an(l M. a pleasant valley nestled is founded by A. an( M. land in 1706 to escape the their foresight, the CriI taitoes for one single (lay of y' werel One night, full of' mch fries, cot t age' fries, hash to show their app)reia I( in endowing a college. Thley ever exceedl four st udenats >inig t,he college this slmall Ipersonializedl attentioni, the thlat is all too often lacking ingly until one Satulrday a cott bad a football game itional rival. Football was, Crimscott, what with only ollege. It was easy enough . ;ood line-or oven a bad7 ching minds in the country. ( game against Minnesota, iny dealt Crimscott a cruel igafoos, the quarterback, bone fever. Wrichards, the atorcycle. Bleerbohm-Tree, tie caught in his espresso was stolen by gyp)sies, imscott team showed up at mfal rival, was able to score of sorts that they immedi a Minnesota, its traditional the Dred Scott Decision. ents might be too small an Ily favor is twenty. How enty studlents and one of rettes, there are enough to me has to be deprived of bhoro's easy-drawing filter, ulfast companionship, and y that is filled with aweet I concord and togetherness es--twenty incomparable each pack of Marlboro's Iln Mar.-le Commnande.