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WOMAN'S WORLD Familiarity With Patterns Will Aid in Fitting Garments By Ertta Haley r lS WAY In which you wear your clothes is just as impor tant as the styles you have chosen. Unless you are comfortable in a dress, blouse, suit or coat, the most fashionable garment will not give you the poise and grooming you should expect. Many women avoid expensive alterations on clothes by making their own, and in this way they can achieve both fashion and correct fit with the least amount of ex pense. Figures which are hard to fit without extensive alterations can readily be clothed with clothes sewed at home, provided you know just how to alter patterns to make them fit. So much ease, comfort and feel ing right can come from clothes that fit accurately that once you’ve treated yourself to a well fitted garment, you’ll never be satisfied with less. Not only will clothes do more for you, but you’ll enjoy wearing them as well as showing them off 4o best advantage. Clothing which fits perfectly al so has the advantage of wearing better, but will require less care and attention than ill-fitted gar ments simply because they wrinkle less readily and need less frequent cleaning and pressing. When you take measurements, remove any bulky pieces of ap parel so that you can arrive at your true measurements. If you wear a certain foundation garment, have this on when you whip out the tape measure. Keep the measurements on a handy card so that you may al ways have them on hand. This card should be kept up-to-date with frequent measurement checks if you are gaining or losing weight. Make Adjustments in Pattern Rather than at Seams t Essential line and style in a pat tern can be changed or lost only by shortening and lengthening at waist or hemline. Therefore, you see many alterations can be made within a pattern itself without Changing the basic style. You may have fit plus style with internal pattern adjustments. Never be misled by seam, pleat and dart allowances. These should be cut, pinned and sewed as di rected on the pattern or the cloth- Burlap Fashions Casual shoes and matching parse fashioned of burlap and simulated leather were Intro duced as sun mates for warm weather wear. The rough tex tured burlap gives a textured effect which Is both novel and new in the fashion picture. ing will not have proper fullness, slenderness or other features which make for good styling. Even if you need so little as a half an inch in the bodice of a dress, don’t try to get the neces sary extra room by failing to slash the garment. If you try to get the room from the seam allowance, the seam may pull open. When you repair the damage, you will actual ly be making the garment so small it cannot ever fit properly. Clothes which are made too roomy are as poorly fitted as those which struggle to keep on your fig ure. When you place the tape meas ure around yourself, do not pull tightly on it, nor let it fall too loosely. It should be so comfort able you do not really feel it, and to have clothes fit perfectly. this Is the way the finished gar ment should be on you. Accurate measuring and cutting of the garment will save both pa tience and material. There is no need to make the garment a little large in the cutting to make allow ance for errors in sewing, for you ■THE READER'S COURTROOM- Some Oaths Need a Little Salt -By Will Bernard, LL.B- Should Statements Under Oath Be Taken With a Grain of Salt? ^ man went bankrupt, and was hailed into court by his creditors. At the hearing, he admitted that he had had $5,000 in cash just a few days before—but claimed he bad lost it all. 'T was walking down the ■treet,” he related, ’'carrying this money in a satchel. While waiting for a street car, I happened to look down and I noticed that the bag had ' ■% \ \ i-V' ■1 fallen off—and 1 was holding only the handle! Since the bag was no where to be seen, I threw away the handle and went home.” Though there was no way to disprove the story, the judge decided he just didn’t believe it—and ordered the man to "find” the $5,000 somehow. The judge figured that, although the story was told under oath, it was too incredible to be taken with out a grain of salt. • • • A miniature golf course was Il luminated by a network of over head lights. After a heavy wind storm, one of the wires was left sagging about six feet above the ground. Several days later, a girl was walking underneath that wire when a bumblebee swooped down at her. She flung her arm upward —end hit the wire. The girl got a nasty shock, and later sued the proprietor for damages. At the trial the proprietor argued that girl bad "brought the injury upon herself.” But he lost the case. Does the Law Recognize The Principle of "Cause and Effect?" This famous case, which arose in the year 1770, laid down a doctrine that is still considered basic in our legal system. Mr. A, bent on mis chief, threw a giant firecracker— lighted—into a crowded market place. It landed at the feet of Mr. B, who snatched it and frantically flung it away. This time the sput tering thing landed near Mr. C. who also threw it away to save himself. The firecracker then fell beside Mr. D, and exploded. Mr. D was injured, and sued Mr. A for damages. Mr. A protested that he had thrown the firecracker at Mr. B, not at Mr. D. But the court held him responsible anyhow. * * # May You Strike Somebody For "Sassing" You? A newsboy took a lively dislike to a storekeeper, and on several occa sions he made faces at the man. One day the boy tried his stunt Just once too often. The merchant seized an umbrella that was handy and smacked his tormentor on the head. Arrested on a charge of assault and battery, the man insisted that his action was justified by the boy’s constant "sassing.” However, the court disagreed and found him guil ty as charged. The judge said it takes more than "dirty looks” to Justify an attack of this kind. will only waste material by having to trim off. Once the pattern Is selected ac cording to the measurements, you may baste it together and try it on; or, make an inexpensive mus lin garment first and work from that to check fit. Slash or Tuck Patterns According to Needs If your bodice is shorter than the pattern allows, lay one tuck straight across the pattern. In this case the side seams may need slight tapering, and is easily ac complished by laying paper under neath the pattern so you can make a dotted line indicating the taper ing. To shorten sleeves, lay folds straight across to take up the extra length. If the sleeve is very long, make one tuck above and one be low the elbow. Shorten the waist by folding the desired depth between the under arm and the waistline. Be certain to make the adjustment on each piece of pattern. Skirt pieces are shortened in the same way as the waist. In this case, have each part of the skirt shortened the same amount, and at the same position. This is partic ularly important so that pattern notches will match, and so that a gored skirt will fit well. When you are adding length rather than subtracting it, use the slash technique. Pin the pieces to a paper strip, or baste them to ex tra paper if you want to use the pattern several times. Making slashes to give width or length and neglecting to pin to an extra piece of paper, may result in your losing the 'pattern pieces. If the pattern is not seperated and simply a slash made without pin ing to extra paper, you may not get the required amount of extra material, as the pattern is apt to slip during the cutting. For a large arm, add the extra width along the edges, tapering from armhole to waist. If much extra width is needed, cut pattern on grain line, separate evenly and pin to paper. Make Waist and Hip Adjustments Carefully For narrow hips, take off a little at the hipline cm the*'side seams of the skirt. Make certain that the line is tapered to the hem so the skirt will fall properly. If only a little additional material is needed at the hips, the adjust ment may be made at the side seams, tapering off at the waist and hemline. When more than a lit tle is needed, an even amount can be allowed along the side seam of the skirt from hip to hem. KATHLEEN NORRIS Find Happiness in Present Lot lurlMI CATES is a Philadelphia woman who represents a large class, and a very unhappy class. She is afraid she is losing her mind. Our hospitals just now unfortu nately are full of women in similar situations, and all doctors count these cases by the dozen. Nothing is really the matter with Mimi, but she has managed to work her self into a state when she trembles and perspires for no apparent cause, can’t eat, can’t sleep, cries constantly, hates solitude, hates company, and generally is causing her husband, her children, her mother and everyone else who loves her alternate states of im patience and despair. The secret of all this is that Mimi is bored with her job. She may not know it, but that explains it all. She’s tired of dust and dishes and budgeting and watching the market, and the dentist and the bridge club and her winter hat and half-melted snow and everything else. When a woman loves her job, she is well. When she hates it, she sometimes goes into these phycho- pathic disorders. Mimi is headed for the mental hospital. She will not be happy there. She will be doing there some of the jobs she might be doing peacefully at home, only instead of household duties they call them occupational thera py. Need for Success Under Mimi’s discontent, that raging restlessness that sweeps her off her feet at intervals, mak ing everyday home life utterly in sufferable, is a half-recognized feverish need for success; the sort of success with which magazines and newspapers are full. Travel, excitement, mink coats, fame, money, these are being displayed . . bates solitude, company . . to Mimi all day long. Wherever she turns she sees the complacent pictures of other women, not much younger and not any smarter than she is, women floating in a very sea of adulation and luxury. The women of past generations didn’t worry about these things be cause, for one thing,’ there were no radios, movies, illustrated maga zines, to keep them perpetually tortured by contrast. And for another thing housekeeping, home- making, mothering, wifehood, were all jobs of much more im portance and repute. Successful professional women, Rachel, George Eliot, Bernhardt, were re garded with an admiration that had no envy in it The highest profession was that of the wife; and incidentally she had a lot more to do. Now much could be said and has been said, of the deceptive appear ance of flashing successes in Holly- wood, on the stage, or in the spot light of sensational marriages and divorces. But saying it only makes fame-thirsty obscure young wom en angry. They’ll take the fame and the money, thanks, and take chances on later disillusionment and being forgotten. Forget Yourself So 1 omit such moralizations Frenchmen Seek Record Heigh! 26,825-Foot Mountain In Nepal Trio^ Goal PARIS, FRANCE—Six veteran French mountain climbers have left for the Himalayas to try to climb higher and faster than men ever climbed mountains before. Target of their assault is Mount Dhaulagiri, a rugged 26.825 foot neak in Nepal', between India and Tibet. It never has been attempted before according to lean-faced. 41- year-old Maurice Herzog, expedi tion leader. ‘‘No human has ever seen the top of this mountain.” Herzog said. "If we reach the peak, it will be the first time a summit of this altitude will have been reached." Dhaulagiri is about 200 miles west of Mount Everest, the world’s tallest mountain (29.002 feet), which men l\gve been trying un successfully for decades to scale. The highest mountain in North America. Alaska’s Mount McKin ley. is 20.300 feet. "Our object,” said Herzog, "is not only to reach a higher summit than has ever been climbed, but to do it faster We will use many mod em tactics and much new equip ment, such as nylon ropes, tents and clothing. Much of the equip* ment will be aluminum.” The French government is financ ing a third of the expedition costs. The rest of the expenses are being paid by private backers and the Alpine club of France. \ Herzog has climbed all the French Alpine peaks worth climbing and some in Switzerland. He is keer to get started. “Our greatest danger is the mon soon,” he said. SCRIPTURE: Amos, (especially 4:1-2; 6*1-6* 8*4-7) DEVOTIONAL READING: Jeremiah 18:1-8. Nation Going Soft Lesson for April 23, 1950 Dr. Foreman that all his here. I only say to women like Mimi—make your present job a success first. Forget yourself. Plunge with absolute passion into the business of creating an ideal home, to which a happy man and eager children can’t wait to return after the day. You can do it. Then think out the line In which you would like to express yourself, the sort of work you know you could do. Get ready for It, and just as sure as you do, you’ll find it. Perhaps it’s writing children’8 stories. You’ve always known you could, but after a few tries, you’ve stopped. Perhaps it’s doing pastel portraits, or acting in radio plays, or designing dresses, making po litical speeches. Or possibly there’s a good future for you in somewhat humbler lines. Women have won all the good things women love—money, travel, fame—because they saw some lit tle gap in the familiar domestic setup, and filled it with some very special bread, or apron, or jam, or method of helping children study, or the patenting of a sweater. % And believe me, when success comes that way, in easier finances, in the royal right to give the ones you love the extra delights and luxuries for which they long, in the flattering recognition of your friends, you'll find that success is sweeter than most of sugary stuff. The crackling divorces of the world’s great ought to be proof to us all that happiness is a quali ty brewed in a much quieter atmo sphere. For if you reach your goal with no one to love, money and fame are only the more maddening. A FTER the fraternity dance one of the "brothers” shot another, for no good reason. Wep, there was a reason of a sort. The killer was drunk, on Uquor the fraternity had bought and served him. H i s excuse, when arrested, was that when he was "tight” he was trig ger - happy. ... A prominent motion picture star di vorces her husband for cruelty. It comes out at the trial that he was mean anyhow, and meannesses got worse when he was drunk. One wonders: Did she know him very well before she married him? ' Every day the papers carry re ports of cars that "went out of con trol” with serious or fatal results. Careful reading of the story too often brings out the fact that the boys had been visiting a night-spot or two before the crash. Survivors will tell the police they couldn’t have been drunk, they had only had •a few beers. Well, you don’t have to be drunk to let a car get out from your control. This writer personally bas observed a driver who had had exactly one beer run a car right off the' pavement in broad sunlight. • • • Gets Monotonous, ^ Doesn’t It? A SEX CRIME is committed by a middle-aged man w^o sheds tears over it afterward and can hardly remember anything about it. "I never would have done it if I had been sober,” he says ... A girl is found murdered in a men’s room ing-house, a nice girl too. Nobody was drunk—they had only been taking a few drinks ... A 27-year-old woman was shot and killed during an argu ment with her sister-in-law. The shooting, it was claimed, was accidental. They had been hav ing some friendly beers In a near-by tavern "for a couple of hours” ifefore the shooting. After they got home, there was pin ifgument. One woman got her husband’s revolver out to scare the other woman, and the first thing she knew, she was being arrested for murder. Her husband told the police that when sober his wife was "deathly scared” of guns. (Beer, the brewers’ ads tell us, is the-friendly drink, it is the drink of moderation; "Beer Belongs.” It does, indeed, b t ut where? Possibly that unfortunate killer-woman had believed what the ads told her.) ... • • • The Truth About Liquor W ELL . . . this could be strung out to the length of several col umns, without half trying. The above items are not from some chamber of horrors conducted by the W.C.T.U., not from a sermon by some Anti-Saloon league preacher, but gathered from newspaper items from a few days’ papers in a city which certainly is not prejudiced against liquor. The truth about liquor can .never be learned from the ad vertising pages, it can be better learned from the news columns. Better yet, if you want to know the truth about it, ask the law yers, doctors and ministers you know. Ask the lawyers if their business would be brisker or slower if liquor were not in ex istence. x Ask the doctors whether steady drinkers have stronger or weaker resistance to disease. Ask the min isters if they know of any troubles in their congregations due to liquor. (And if even church people have troubles with it, what about people with no religion?) • • • Drink and Doom r V IS NOT TRUE that if Uquor were totaUy aboUshed from the earth, all the troubles of mankind would vanish. Man has too much meanness in him. A sober scoun drel is one of the worst. But it is true that liquor lends itself all too easily to aU sorts of troubles, all sorts of sins. When Amos thunders against the evils of his time, drunk enness is one of the sins prominent on his Ust. » Remember that in Amos' time there was no whisky, no bran dy, no distiUed Uquors, only "mild” stuff like wine. Every denunciation of drink in the Bible is directed against what would now be called Ught wine and beers. One thing is as certain now as it was in Amos’ time: A nation that insists on having its Uquor is not the nation God will insist on saving when its day of doom arrives. (Copyright by the International council of Religious Education on behalf of 41 Protestant denominations. Released by WNU Features.) © 08 Leftover Ham and Eggs Make Interesting Dish For Supper, Luncheon U’LL BE GLAD to have ham leftover from your Easter din ner as weU as those hard-cooked eggs from the tra ditional Easter egg hunt. Both can help make your menus in teresting if you add a few glam orous touches to them. You can serve juicy pink sUces of ham in sandwiches or with salad as long as you can slice them, but when you get down to the smaUer pieces, then you may be looking for such recipes as caU for diced or ground ham. *Ham a la King in Toast Cups (Serves 6) 3 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon diced onion H teaspoon salt % teaspoon pepper 4 tablespoons flour cups milk 1 cup diced, cooked celery 2 cups julienned cooked ham 4 sliced hard-cooked eggs K teaspoon Worcestershire sauce Melt butter, add onion and cook until tender over low heat, while stirring. Add seasonings and flour; blend. Add milk and cook until thick ened, stirring constantly. Add cel ery, ham, sliced eggs and Wor cestershire sauce, reserving a few egg slices to garnish top. Heat and serve in hot toast cups. Toast Cups 6 thin slices bread 3 tablespoons melted butter Remove crusts from bread slices. Brush^both sides of each slice with melted butter. Press into six, three- inch muffin pans with two points each side. Bake in a moderately hot oven (375°) for 12 minutes im- til lightly browned. Smoked Ham-Pineapple Patties (Serves 6) 3 cups ground leftover ham , K cup dry bread crumbs H teaspoon ground cloves % teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 eggs '• 6 slices canned pineapple Combine meat, crumbs, season ings, sugar, and well beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly. Form into six flat patties. Arrange pineapple slices In a shallow baking pan. Place a patty on each ring. Bake in a hot oven (325*) about 25 minutes or until browned. Ribbon Egg Salad t (Serves 6) 12 hard-cooked eggs French dressing 2 tablespoons unflavored gela tin H enp cold water 34 cap buying water 134 cups salad dressing 2 teaspoons minced onion 3 tablespoons lemon juice 34 teaspoon salt 34 cup chopped parsley Separate yolks and whites. Force the yolks through a sieve and moist en with French dressing. Press the yolks firmly onto bottom of greased mold. Chop the whites. Soften gela tin in cold water and dissolve In boiling water. Cool. When sirupy In consistency, add salad dress ing, onion, lemon juice and salt. Pour about half of this mixture over yolk and chill until firm. Add chopped parsley and egg whites to remaining gelatin mixture and pour into mold. Chill until firm Cream sauce, strips of ham and hard-cooked eggs served in toast cups make such a tasty and delicious dish when served In this nay, you’d never guess leftovers were being used. LYNN SAYS: Pep Up Lunches With Variety Tuna fish salad for sandwiches Is nothing new, but when you add to it some broiled bacon, you give It a welcome change of flavor. Swiss cheese paired with thinly sliced dried beef and sliced tomato will travel well if made into a lunch box sandwich. If the sandwich filling is rather dry, give it succulence by dipping In an egg-milk mixture and fry It for French Fried sandwiches. m&mms i j Add other ingredients to both ham and eggs to enhance their flavor and extend these pro tein foods when preparing them into luncheon or sapper dishes. LYNN CHAMBERS* MENU Hot Tomato Juice •Ham a la King in Toast Cups Carrot Strips and Green Beans Pear Salad Beverage Chocolate Pudding •Recipe Given Eggs Stuffed with Crab Meat (Makes 12 staffed eggs) 6 hard-cooked eggs 1 teaspoon dry mustard 34 teaspoon salt 1 cap flaked crab meat 1 cap chopped celery 2 tablespoons chopped green pepper 34 enp mayonnaise Paprika Cut eggs into halves crosswise. Remote yolks, mash and mix with remaining ingredients. Fill whites, sprinkle with paprika. Baked Hawaiian Hash ^ (Serves 5) 3 tablespoons butter, melted ' ' 3 cups diced leftover cooked smoked ham 3 cups diced cooked sweet po tatoes 34 cup finely chopped onion 34 teaspoon salt 34 teaspoon pepper 34 cap pineapple Juice 3 slices pineapple, eat in half 34 * ■ ed butter, ham, potatoes, onion, seasonings and pineapple juice; mix lightly. Bake in greased eight- inch square bak ing dish in moder ate oven (350°) 30 minutes. Re move from oven; top with halved pineapple slices; sprinkle with brown sugar; dot with two table spoons butter. Broil until pineapple is lightly browned, about seven minutes. Baked Tomatoes and Hard-Cooked Eggs (Serves 6) 2 medium tomatoes, peeled 6 slices bread 6 hard-cooked eggs, sliced 2 cups Cheese Sauce 12 strips cooked bacon Parsley « Cut each tomato into three slices crosswise. fToast bread lightly. Ar range sliced egg on each slice of toast, cover with a slice of tomato and bake in mod erate oven (350*) 15 minutes. Pour hot cheese sauce over tomato and return to oven to heat until sauce begins to bubble. Remove from oven, garnish each service with bacon strips and add parsley. • • • Pineapple Nat Cake (Serves 6—8) 34 cup butter 1 cap sugar 3 egg yolks 1 cup crushed, canned pine apple 34 oup nutmeats, chopped 14 graham crackers, crumbled - 34 cup pineapple juice 34 cup heavy cream, whipped Cream together butter and sugar. Add egg yolks and continue Cream ing until well blended. Add pine apple and nutmeats. Arrange al ternate layers of crumbs and pine apple mixture in loaf pan, leaving crumbs as top and bottom layers. Moisten with juice. Set in refrig erator for 12 hours. Serve in slices with whipped cream. Chicken and ham are flavor mates for sandwiches. Enhance the flavor by spreading the bread with a Thousand Island dressing. For something distinctly differ ent, try using a scrambled egg fill ing in noontime sandwiches. Color and flavor appeal are given the sandwich by adding some chopped green pepper or chopped onion to the eggs. Peanut butter is an old favorite, but it takes on interest when mixed with chopped crisp cucumber awl a bit of pimiento for color. Comfortable Dress Is f * - « Coo! and Flattering Cool, Flattei N EAT and pretty and kind of sewing is i comfortable dress. A ties softly in front. —_ neckline is especially fli . c ~ ~ Pattern No. II rated pattern In _ 40 and 42 Size 14. The spring and sumr complete pattern ma( with fabric newt, easy fe C a° r 5^Uc P8 l£f r c e ?n& a SEWING CIRCLE Pi •St Beath WeUa St., Enclose 25 cents in pattern desired. - . <k Pattern No. Name Address > ■. # At Last! The big business man and gone to—well, not to l Hardly had he settled (' nice, long smoke whep a b hand slapped him on die Into his ear boomed the persistent salesman quently hounded him "Well, Mr. Smith,” salesman, "I’m *fr ■ V/ i > VX, time I entered your office on i you told md you would here.” like (i i Lighter, crisper crusted, fresher richer tasting... yes. Roll Mix gives Prize results, j home-baked rolls are so make with Duff’s. Everything's In, I ** f • Just add water that’s A Frodact of AMBNCAN HOME FOODS