Historical Newspapers of South Carolina

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THIS LEDGER: GAFFNEY, S. C., MARCH 31, 1898. 8 fSsh IONS FOR SPRING. Stolen In Dinner uud Out of Door Ai>|)arel. Dtaob tulloor net, plain er^'inbroWloretl, tnv«r c< lored silk or Katin linings, makes fashionable and efTcctivo evening gowiiB mid blouses at present. Sometimes bloek bcombined with two colors, the second be- t mi! .I-/. BPIUNO COSTCMK. Ing Introduced as •ollar and belt. An example of this is shown in a new model of n dinner costume in which black em broidered not is employed over a lining of old gold faille. The colliir and belt are of rod velvet. Light bodices for similar purposes are made of very thin materials—gauze, taf feta, fancy silks—and are decorated in many original ways, the effort l>cing made to obtain more unique effects. This is not easy when for so long a time trimming has been In vogue, and the brains of all modistes have been racked to invent now arrangements and combinations. lllouses are much less full than they worn and are usually close at the buck, which gives them a much smarter appear ance. A blouse back sagging over tho belt always has a somewhat untidy ap pearance. An embroidery of metal, silk or spangles often defines a bolero shape on the bodice. Whether sleeves are plain or gathered they at# always tight and small almost to tho very top. There they arc given a slightly wider effect by means of a small puff, a little drapery ora more or less fan ciful cap. No doubt this decoration also will soon disappear and the skin tight sleeve of past days will return, with no fold or wrinkle to mar its smoothness. Today’s illustration shows a new and Dretty spring costume of thin mnstio cloth. I’he skirt, which closes at tho leftside, has deep facing of cloth of the same color ovorod with applique spots of brown vcl- ut. This faring curves upward and fol- nvs the closing of the skirt at the side, looming narrower. Tho bodice of plain Cith has a fitted back and a crossed blouse fjut. The wide collar and soft revers ore otho spotted cloth, as are the close sleeves. To plastron and belt are of plain mnstio clth, the high collar of brown velvet. T'li hat accompanying this gown is of mnilla straw and is trimmed with dra]K‘r- icgjf cream silk gauze and with yellow «un brown velvet (lowers. JUDIC CHOLLET. THE WARDROBE. StyH and materials to Prevail Dating tho Coniing Season. Fnoy fabrics covered with elaborate desiws ant brought out in different styles cveryHeason and often become very fash- donaUi for a time, but plain goods never go ou of date, whereas fancy weaves '..1 HI.AIK NET COSTUME. differ markedly from year to year and soon appear old fashioned. It is therefore wiser for women of moderate income to chooso plain fabrics If they wish to seem always abreast with the mode. Foulard Is to !w greatly worn during the warm season and is largely seen In deep colors—wine, brown, blue and green— with a more or less conspicuous white fig ure. Thu same effects are seen in wool chaltlos. Grenadine chnlilus with satin stripes are a novelty, but they are not so pretty as the ordinary kind, although the delicately tinted floral designs with which (they are covered are often very beautiful. The favor shown to sheer, transjiarent fabrics has resulted In the production of a number of charming silk grenadines for wear during the coming season. There ore a vast number of patterns shown, and the goods are made up over a black or col ored lining, with trimmings uf spangled tulle. Today’s picture Illustrates a costume of ftlack net covered with a design embroid ered In black chenille and jet spangles. It Is made over a lining of old rose satin, the holt also holrg of old rose satin. Thu skirt is finished around the foot by a tiny plait ing headed by a band of jet spangles. Tho ^ neck Is cut in a small square, bordered with jet spangled passementerie. Tho toque, of old rose tulle, Is trimmed with •coques uf black Velvet. JLU1C OTIOIXKT. WHAT TO WEAR. Styles to Its Adopted Por Spring and Summer Wardrobes. A perfectly plain docollotagu Is seen In some of the newest evening bodices, tho edge being llnlshed without n bertha or even a ribbon band. This style can only bo worn, of course, when the neck and shoulders are unusually beautiful. Tho dccollotagc carried straight across the top of tho arms is also seen. Among pretty spring wraps are very short cajs's having a fancifully cut yoke of silk or velvet embroidered with lieads and spangles. A full plaiting of lace or mousseline do sole, with a silk lining, is mounted on the yoke and Is prolonged In a slight point in front. Thu collar Is al ways high and flaring and is lined with lace or ostrich plumage. Crepe do chine, tulle, gauze and mousse line do solo carry all before them and en joy unlimited favor. They will be much worn all summer and arc certainly capable of most charming developments. Even in summer travelers always require warm wraps, and the half length capos uf soft, thick wool, with cupuohons, are ex actly what is required. They are so warm as to require no lining, but are yet light in weight Tho two sides are entirely HOUSE GOWN. different both in color and design, ns a rule, and the outside is often of a plain, subdued color, while the inside is of bright plaid. The Inside color serves for revers and for the eapuchon. Thin block cloth, richly embroidered, composes entirely now and very fashion able spring jockots of novel cut. Thu basque Is always short and quite flat, rip ples having disappeared from the domain of tho reigning mode. A belt is often a feature of the jacket, and a high, flaring collar is Inevitable. Tho picture given In today’s Issue shows a new model for a house gown. It Is of mauve woolen goods and has a yoke cov ered with bands of black satin ribbon. The body of the gown fits at tho sides, but has a double watteau plait at tho hock and a stole plait in front outlined with tho black ribbon. Fourwidutabsof material, bordered with black ribbon, form a bertha around the yoke. The loose sleeve is gathered into a black satin band at tho wrist, from which falls a deep cuff of ma terial edged with ribbon. .fUniC CHOLLET. THE APPROACH OF SUMMER. The ProHix-ct of Warm Weather Itrtngs Oat u Host of I’retty Things to Wear, lllack and white, always a fashionable and effective combination, appears this spring in a now form, one of the novelties presented as models of future fashions be ing a half length jacket or coat of white cloth, with revers, cuffs and buttons of black velvet. Such a coat as this could only bo adopted by a woman with an ex tensive wardrobe, ns it is too striking to be worn for general service, even were it not easily defaced. Taffeta blouses are as much worn as ever, but they are not so full and are more variously trimmed. Tiny tucks, bands uud ruffles of narrow ribbon, ruches of tulluor moussellno do sole and even little Irills of Valenciennes lace are the ornamentation. Parisian women, who find themselves overwhelmed with social duties, have tak en to afternoon teas in self defense, ns it is simpler to drive from one house to another ft LINON GOWK. before dinner and drink a oup of tea for politeness' sake than It is to go to an equal number of formal halls and receptions after dinner. Gray cloth, combined with white, com poses some charming now toilets, which are often adorned with buttons of rock crystal, a striking novelty. It has been already mentioned In this column that batistes, lawns and zephyrs embroidered with black dots are a sum mor novelty. These lit straw, sky blue, green, pink or mauve compose exceeding- Ij pretty shirt waists, which are already put upon the market, although it is early as yet for such thin apparel. A pretty summer gown Is shown which Is made of ecru linon with green silk strl|M*s, which are arranged horizontally. A flounce of plain ecru linon embroidered with seallopN gives a mlingotu effect to the skirl. The blouse bodice is draped with a Helm which Is edged by a plaiting of pink moussellno de sole. The belt is of green jnd pink changeable taffeta, im is the high, soft collar. JlPIC CIIOLLKT. FASHIONABLE NOVELTIES. The Latest News Concerning the AUalrs of the Wardrobe. For costumes of tulle, spangled or om- bmidored with ehenille, there is a new lin ing—a glossy and rustling satin, which replaces taffeta, having all the latter’s Bound and a much greater gloss. Women who like clothing which rustles will be pleased with tills material. The newest wrap is a half length capo, which has no square corners, but Is lon gest at the hack, rounding up to tho neck In front in a large, gradual curve. This cape is usually finished around tho edge with one or more ruffles, w hich also form the high collar, continuing around the neck from the front. At tho back of tho neck of all capes is a big bow, often fasten ed in tho middle by a jeweled ornament. liong nock chains continue to be fash ionable, and, although their use as muff suspenders is nearly over, they will find ample occupation In sustaining tho weight of tho lorgnette or purse. The newest chains are those In which a variety of jew els appear at once. The fur of the ermine has from time im memorial been dotted at regular intervals with tho black tip of the tall when pre pared for human wear. A French modiste has conceived the idea of dispensing with these blin k tips and keeping to tho clear white skins. If this idea “takes” popular ly, what an opportunity it otTcrs to tho venders of rabbit and cat skins! Tho cut shows n novel costume for even ing wear. It is in tlic princess style, the front and the untlre bodice being of orange velvet, bordered by an embroidered floral design. The back of the skirt is composed of white satin, which spreads out from nothing nt the waist line and forms a train. The dceollctago, which is square in front, is deeply pointed at the back anti is itordored by a drapery of white moussellno he solq, The shoulder straps are garlands of fog roses. A paste Dickie, very loivg, closes the back of tlie bodice. ( and a Jduck velvet rosette is placed at tho left'side of tbu'dcc'olletagc in front. JUDIC CHOLLET. SPRING STYLES. Various Novelties Prepared For Warm Weather Wear* lllouses of miroir taffeta nro seen for spring wear. They arc sometimes simple and sometimes elaborate. Tho coloring Is bright and varied, and such bodices are PlUNCKafi GOWN. useful as well us pretty. A taffeta show ing reflections of green and gold is exceed ingly pretty, and so also are the blue and tan silks. Spring walking gowns of thin cloth or other woolen goods are much ornamented with flat decorations consisting of em broidery <or incrustations of gulpuro and passementerie. Gayer costumes for moro lively wear are of thin materials made fluffy and cloudy by ruchlngs and pullings of inoussuline du solo. Newest indications of coming stylos make evident a tendency to return to tho old style of postilion basques, like roal coattails, moro or less long. Several close fitting bodices among spring novelties have these coattails, such bodices usually being also out away over a vest front. Princess costumes increase in number, and, although they are a somewhat exclu sive style on account of the skill required in fitting them ami never liecomc common, they will lie seen often next season, being adopted for summer wear by many elegant women. They are now made quite sim ply and of soft, clinging material, such as thin, flexible cloth or fine cashmere. Black ami white In combination, which have been so mud) worn during the win ter, ploy an important role In tho spring wardrobe also, us|icclully fancy jackets and capes. Tho cut shows a novel effect in a princess gown. The Isidy of Die gown is ef red taffeta striped with bias bands of black satin. Over this Is a sort of skeleton dress ol dark blue ulotli cut away to form a Ihi- loro, plastron and slashed skirt. Thu sleeves are of taffeta, with black bands, am) have straps of blue cloth buttoned dowtr over siiiull iiulTs of the samo goods tor epaulets. Two large buttons also dec orate the front uf the skirt. J l D1C CUOLUtT. FOR THE STREET. The Latest Finihlon In Out of Door Ap parel. Thin wraps for spring wear appear In various forms, lilted both back and front, tight at the back and loose in front, with jacket effects, with blouse effects and final ly in a style between a blouse, cape and jacket. Many different materials arc em ployed, but silk ifiid lace together are pre ferred, as usual. A short, flat bs^qSSf cat all In one piece is a frequent feature. Gigantic cravats of moussi-line tie sole, tulle, cropc do chine, liberty silk or brus- eols net are growing In favor. They could hardly grow In size without obscuring tho wearer, as when they are used as a finish at tho throat of a wrap or jacket the ends fall half way down the skirt. Many of tho spring wraps are void of ony pretense of sleeves, even of a eapeliko character, and have simply a double or triple ruffle or square tabs across tho top of tho arm. There is a tendency towued / NEW HAT. sash ends nt the back of thin wraps, these ends to be of double faced ribbon or to consist of plaited scarfs of moussellno de sole. , Little ornamental capes are very short and aro lavishly trimmed In all sorts of dainty. Huffy ways. They form a pleasing finish for spring costumes and afford a certain degree of protection to tho chest and throat. In black they may appropri ately accompany any gown. Ostrich feathers, short and long, nro In their glory, being used In tho utmost pro fusion upon fashionable hats and bonnets. An illustration is given which shows to what an extent a style may bo carried. The hut is a rather close shape of black straw turned up at the left side and is completely covered with ostrich plumes In mauve and black, black predominating. Tho hat is worn with a gown of sliver gray cloth trimmed with black, a cluster of violets being fastened nt the bosom. JUDIC CHOLLET. THE TOILET. A Novel Idea For Jackets—Care of tho ('omplcxioD. The newest models of jackets in black velvet or cloth have velvet collars. This in Itself is not at all new, hut.tho collar* are of velvejt’of a most decided eoloB—-'vldlot or green *ir old ’rose, liichly ombrolderpd collars'are also a novelty, and embroidered rovers to mutch aro tho usual accompani ment. Instead of tacking sachets In tho gown itself, to place them here and there in tho •losot whore clothing is kept is a better way of perfuming attire for women who are addicted to artificial perfumes. An other plan Is to cover tho wire coat hang ers used to suspend skirts and bodices with pretty silk under which Is ]ierfumed wad ding. Tho usual envelope shape employed for cases to bold handkerchiefs, veils, etc., is not sufficiently ample to accommodate scarfs, rolls of lace and similar bulky but dainty articles. A new idea is to use a large, round willow basket, stained green or V^quercd with gold paint, and lined with silk which incloses a perfumed wud- .- 5? I 'Jv -jP AN Csv VISITING GOWN. ding. A flounce of silk is placed around tho outside of the basket and n large bow decorates tho cover. Cold winds dry and parch tho skin, and rloe powder alone is not sufficient to pro tect the complexion. Indeed where the ■kin has been already roughened powder rather increases the injury. If the face bo rubbed with glycerin, ail that remains on the surface being w Ipcd off, and If the powder lie then applied the complexion will retain Its smoothness or recover it if It has been lost. An Illustration is given of a visiting gown of hortensiu brocho silk. The plain skirt has a slight train. The bodice has A yoke ami corselet of straw silk embroid ered with black and a fan shaped boftha composed of plaited black lace. A torsade of black satin heads the bertha and follows the edge of the yoke over the shoulders and up the back to the neck behind, where there is a black satin Imiw. lllack bows also adorn the shoulders and tho point of tho corselet in front. Thu collar Is of black >at!n, the sluevea of liorteiisla fllk. The occomimnying toque Is uf hortohaU velvet and is trimmed with white plumes. Jl blt CllokUT. NEW STYLES. Prevaiiiug For tlie I’n-M-ut and the Coining Souaotis. The foremost modistes aro now adding a touch of black.—brctcllc#, belt, bows or choux—to nearly all costumes of light or bright colors. A black sash of satin or tnllo will accompany a gown of rose or pale green, a turquoise blue toilet will bo ornamented with jet. This sort of com bination is also seen in summer goods, batistes of straw, ecru, mauve and other delicate tints being embroidered with black dots. These goods will bo much employed for warm weather gowns, as will largo checked ginghams and piques. For mure elaborate costumes embroidered voile, chenille embroidered tulle and nioussclines du sole with daintily colored floral designs will bo used. Skirts for evening and ceremonious wear are to have a train, moro ur less long. Sometimes it just lies upon tho ground, sometimes It is very extensive. Around tho hips skirts are very close, and no crinoline or haircloth is used anywhere about them, a soft, flexible effect being uow the newest and most desirable thing. Bodices will retain the blouse in front, but behind it must go. It was never be coming there. Full fronts are not likely to bo abandoned all summer because they lend themselves so well to thin materials. Close corsages aro to be worn also, bow ever, and indications are that they will soon proiiondcrutc. Sleeves arc quite close and plain—at least tho newest ones—but with these ad justed sleeves and bodices tho collars and berthas of tho IHilO order aro to lie revived. Tho picture shows a costume of pale blue silk. Tho front of the skirt forms a deep, round apron, ujKin which is mounted a flounce of s*lk which grows deeper to ward the back. Tho close bodice is cross ed In front and has a fichu conqioscd of three narrow ruffles of pale blue mousse lino de sole which opens over a chemisette of black satin. Thu collar and belt aro of black satin, and a black satin bow at tho back retains two long sash ends of black satin edged by ruffles of blue moussellnc de solo. Tbu black straw bat has a black satiu crown and Is trimmed with black plUniCS. JUDIC CHOLLET. THE HOUSEHOLD. Hints on Table Service and Decorations of the Living Dooms. Tho latest fancy for an elaborate dinner scrvlcu is to substitute gold plated ware for silver when the time for dessert arrives. All the sliver being removed, it i« replaced by forks, spoons, knives uml little plates of gilded ware. The loaves ef follago plants used as a decoration in ordinary living rooms should U/i HOUSE GOWN. be wiped every week to keep them fresh and remove the dust. Plants flourish much better when thus treated and are much moro ornamental. Palms, umbrella plants and rubber trees are chiefly chosen for household decorations because they will live with a comparatively small amount of light and atre, but some varie ties of begonias are also patient In these respects and make very pretty ornaments. The ordinary large leaved canna, such as is bedded out to form groups In tho gar den. Is also a very satisfactory decorative S lant when planted in a tub or jar in tho oukc. It has much the effect of a banana tree, but is more leafy and luxuriant. The large variety of calla Illy, when well grown, Is likewise i graceful plant, and the leaves alone are ornamental enough to make it valuable for the house. Cartridge paper in gray, ecru, cofiseor green tones Is preferable to pa]>or having a design for any room where pictures aro to be hung on tho walls. If a rich and elalMirato wall paper Is desired, pictures should be omitted and the wall decoration left unbroken by any such interruptions. Tho walls of the dining room and the hall are often covered with pai>or having a highly colored and conspiuiious design, tho surface lieing divided Into iianols by bunds of picture molding. In such case* pictures will detract from the good effect Instead of Increasing It. Tho cut given today shows u house gown of blue cloth. It Is gathered in to the fig ure by rows of shirring nt the waist be hind, while in front it Is double breasted and fulls straight. The collar and revers are of white oloth, the latter fastening un der a liow of white taffeta ribbon with long ends. Thu lunsc sleeve* are gathered Into a deep miff of whiieclolhornamented with white pearl buttons. JUDIC CHOLLET. THE TABLE. Articlm of Uso and Ornament Now Km- ployed at Fa*liiniialile Dinners. Silver Is now preferred for table orna ments to anything else. Pepper boxes, saltcellars, butter platoK and aauco dishes all are of silver. A new idea In table decoration Is to havo a flat mirror framed in silver pinned in the middle, on which are arranged groups of old Saxony statuettes, alternat ing with little silver vases full of flowers, the latter lieing scarcely any higher than the figures. The statuettes are connected by garlands of fine foliage, like smllax or climbing fern or asparagus. Usually for the decoration of tho table one kind of flower Is adopted or one color—pink roses or red carnations or yel low tulips. Where yellow flowers are se lected for any decoration to bo viewed by artificial light the yellow should be of an orange rather than a lemon hue, ns green ish yellows do not light up well. Pink and red are tho best colors for dinner table ornamentation, as they are lively and ap pear to advantage by all lights. A great deal of luxury has hitherto been expended on table linen, in the way of em broidery, lace, drawn work and insertion. Now bus oome a revulsion, and tho newest ■ jVV - V.. ir. HOUSE HODICE. and most fashionable table damask is quite plain save for the embroidered cipher or monogram. What Is saved in trimming, however, goes into tho quality of tho damask, which Is of superlative fineness. Tinted linen Is, of course, only admissible for tho breakfast and luncheon table. White crystal for tho table has replaced tho colored glassware so long used. Even wineglasses matching tho color of tho wine are no longer in the latest taste, ex cept in the case of Rhine wine. All other wine is served in colorless glass. Louis Qulnzo silverware is revived In boiho elegant houses. Tho old silver forks have two or three tines, but the handles are variously decorated. Tho spoons have a small bowl, but a very long handle. Tho knives aro elaborately wrought. This ware is only interesting and effective when it is genuine. Tho sketch shows a house bod loo, the blouse and basque being of broehe silk, the shirred chemisette of ruby velvet. Tho square revers of gray satin and tho flar ing oollnr of the samo material nro edged with a tiny ruche of gray satin w hich con tinues across tho front of the corsage. Tho close sleeves of gray satin have shoulder puffs of ruby velvet and velvet bands at tho wrists. Tho soft belt of ruby velvet Is fas- touod by a steel buckle. JUDIC CHOLLET. SPRING CLOTHING. Vernal Impulses of the Wardrobe of Fash ionable Women. Very thin, fine voile Is a favorite fabrlo for spring and summer gowns. It is often embroidered with a different shade of the samo color or with a delicate ornamenta tion of gold and spangles. One of the best examples of this class of gowns is a cos tume of dove gray voile, embroidered with fine white pearls, gray silk and gold span gles. This Is trimmed with pink satin and dove gray gauze. Very shont capes aro favorite spring wraps. They are almost always dark and are lined with light or bright colors—rose, straw, green, white or turquoise White or gold colored trimming is the most prac tical, os either will harmonize with any color. No stylo of garment Is ugly until it is out of date. Such is tho decision of a SPUING HAT. French authority, who likewise admits that many styles, once they havo “gone out,” are hideous. Lust summer’s sleevue come under the bun. but ns tho now fash ion Is smaller it is easy to remodel them simply by ripping them out and apart, pressing them with a hot flatiron and re- cutting them by this year’s pattern. i Black spangled toques and bonnets, trimmed with white lace and bright flow ers, are worn with spring costumes and are very smart and pleasing. The decorations nro of course simple, that tho spanglod shnpo may not be concealed. Coarsely woven straws havo the prefer ence this season over smooth, fine braids Strands of chenille or silk are often plait ed In with tho straw, and tho liraid is fre quently intermingled with folds of gauze and moussellno de solo. Tho Illustration shyvs a hat of this style, in which heav] lack braid alternntos with sof ojto.work blue- , V1M1 ^ twists of white mechlin tulle. A‘t tho lef side is a large, pink rosebud, with ama) green buds uml foliage, while under tb brim Is a chou coiiqxiM'd of coquos of rae satin uud another rosebud. J UDlf CHOLLET.