The herald and news. (Newberry S.C.) 1903-1937, January 05, 1909, Page TWO, Image 2
WILL SEABROOK'S TRAVELS.
Me Visits Nimes, France, and GivE
The Herald and News His Ex
periences And Impressions.
(By W. B. Seabrook.)
Special to The He-ld and News.
Nime-,, Franc.-Geologists hav
frequently remarked the eminentl
''sociable" character of the Frene
soil, which, as it gradually approach
os the frontiers, seems to absorb th
tiaits of the adjoining countries. Th
observation is equally true of th
monuments that have been raised b;
the hand of man. One cannot cor
ceive a more admirable preface t
ancient Italy than the Roman ruin
and relies in the lower valley of th
Rhone. The Eternal City excepted, i
is doubtful if Italy itself ean pre
sent an ensemble of temples, arena
and ampitheatres superior to that of
fered by Nimes, Arles, Orange S1
Remy, Vienne and other less cele
brated Provencal sites, whose prec
ious antiquities recall the power an
glory of the Caesars, invaders, eon
querors and then eivilizers of thes
itherto barbarian regions. Sine
the explosion which shook the Athen
ian aeropolis and wrecked the Paz
thenon, no existing temple in Greec
or Italy is as well preserved or a
beautiful as the MaIson Carree; th
arenas of Nimes and Arles are ii
an infinitely better state of praser
vation than the Coliseum; as for th
Pont du Gard, it is one of the uniqui
marvels of the world.
Few cities present to the travele
a more imposing picture than Nimes
particularly when it is first perceiveo
from the summit of the viaduct. Sur
rounded by shaded esplanades an
splendid modern buildings, the sal
ient feature of the lanscape is the gi
gantie ampitheatre; behind it rises
ridge of green and thiekly woode;
hills, the tallest summit crowned b:
the romantic 'and enigmatic silhouett
of the Tour Magne. Of all the an
cient ampitheatres, that of Nime
has suffered least from the ravage
of time and vandal hands. It is als<
one of the largest; it was designed t
furnish places for 30,000 spectators
which attests the importance of th,
city during the time it was governe4
by the Romans.
The arena, though spared destrue
tion, has undergone many and variei
vicissitudes; the Visigoth-s, havina
invaded and conquered the. provine
in the year 472, construeted a fortres
and watch tower upon its topmos
a,rches; for the .Saracens it served:
* sinela pus-pose and when Charles
Martel expelled them from the coun
try he set fire to the vast agglomer
ation of buildings, which had sprung
'up inside the protecting walls of thi
ampitheaize, but while the building
of the Saracens crumbled in the heal
the massive arches of Roman mason
ry stood firm. During the middi
ages, this provincial coliseum becam1
the habitation of thousands of poo:
families, who constructed rude shel
ters beneath the arches, in the nicher
*of the walls, and in every creviec
which offered refuge, living like Az
tecs or prehistoric cave-dwellers. In
*side the arena a vertiable villags
was built upon the rising tiers o:
stone seats, and soon the whole gi
g'antic structure was swarming wit]
life, like a monstrous beehive or
*New York tenement. This city-of
the-poor eventually became a distine
quarter of Nimes, with markets
shops, restaurants and even a chureh
which was built in one of the gal
leries of .the second. floor and chris
tened ''St. Martin des Arenes.'
.However, the National Commissioi
of Historic Monuments has removei
all this debris, and, as far as possible
restored~ to the ampitheatre its prop
er aspect.
Aside from the sentiments o.f aw
and solemn wonder which all Roma
monuments inspire, the point whiel
struck nme most forcibly in connectioi
with the constrnetion of this build
.ing was the perfect adequacy of it
exits. (With one single exception
catastrophes like that of the Iroquoi
theatre in Chicago, which, unhappil:
are of all too frequent occurrence i
this enlightened 20th century, wer,
unknown to the Romans.) Aside fror
the unnumerable staircases whic1
could be thrown open or closed a
will, the amphitheatre was provide<
with 20 wide exists or '' vomitoires,'
* through which the entire audience o
30,000 souls could pass in four or fiv
minutes. In ease of accident or se
vere storm, for the building was witi
out roof, the huge structure literal:
''vomited'' the surging erowds.
If the arena arouses primarily
profound sensation of Roman grar
duxer. the Maison Carree complete
the ider of a civilization which knea
how to n1' heenitv and eleaanee wit
strenwth. The Maison Carree, th~
most +'nired monument in Franet
is perh-1ps, the most perfect existin
example of Graeco-Roma n architet
i the Romans inherited from the
s Greeks. Its decorative sculpture is
justly celebrated, and in its vicinity
statues and fragments of other build
ings have been discovered, among
which is a bas-relief representing a
coquettish young woman seated in
e the midst of a flower market, beneath
y which appears the following naif
h and amusing inscription, "Non ven
- do ni amantibus coronas."-(I sell
e my flowers only to lovers.)
e, Until the 19th century, the arche
e ologists held -widely divergent views
Ylas to the nature and destination of!
the Maison Carree, but it is now gen
o erally admitted that the -edifice was
s a temple, erected in honor of the two
e brothers Caius and Lucius Agrippa,
t sons of the great Agrippa and grand- I
sons of Caesar Augustus.
s But the "Tour Magne" guards its
secret, and has stood for 15 hundred
years mute and silent as the sphynx.
- Was it a tomb or a watch-tower or
- a fortress? No one kr irs. Connt
less legends have been wuven round
its picturesque and crumbling form,
e and one historic incident of the XIl
e century, more curious than any of
- the .traditions, confirms the proverb
that truth is stranger than fiction.
* Prior to the year 1600 the tower was
120 feet high and was composed of
a two distinct paxts; the lower division
which rose to a height of 90 feet was
formed of a massive circular wall
filled with earth and stones; upon
this solid bas was built a second
tower. Today the upper tower has
r disappeared and the 90 foot base is
;, a hollow shell. The singuar origin of
I the excavations which changed the
- aspect of the monument is somewhat
I as follows:
Nostradamus, the celebrated as
trologer, whose native town, St.
iRemy, was only a few leagues distant
from Nimes, predicted in the famous
"Centuries" which he published be
e fore becoming the court physician of
Charles IX, that, some day, a Pro
s vencal gardener would become rich
s by discovering a golden han buried
a beneath an ancient tower. Nostra
damus died, and in Provenee his
i"Centuries," which had never been
regarded seriously by his acquantane
es and neighbors, were soon forgot
ten. He had been the typical "pro
- phet not. without honor save in his
I own country." But even if the in
? habitants of Nimes, St. R'emy and
e IAvignon had been disposed to place
s credence in this greatest of charla
t tans, the prophecy regarding the
i. golden hen was too indefinite to
s stimulate them to search for the treas
' ure. "Beneath an ancient tower"'
-was the sole indication furnished by
? the mysterious volume, and, as all the
a world knows, "ancient towers" aie
s the common features of every land
,scape in the valley of the Rhon'e boe
- tween Lyons and Mar'seilles. One
a .might as well say today "benzath a
a 1skyseraper in New York," or "be
r neath 'a sand-heap in the Sahara."
Sn.However, during the reign of
SHenry IV the magic cult founded by
- Nostradamus was suddenly revived by
- the discovery that ertain important
a political prophecies in the "Centur
Sies" had been fulfilled in an amnaz
- ing manner. Even "in his own coun
1 try" the people marveled, and signal
led their tardy recognition by raising
a stutue to the memory of the "pro
Sphet." Everybody who could read
began to read the "Centuries," ar.d
the storry of the golden hen was thus
brought to light a second time. O:m
er predictions had 'come true, why
not this one? Many a poor 'farmer
' neglected his cabbages and potatoes
to sink his spade feverishly ino& the
stony soil at the foot of some Roman
or feudal ruin-always with the same
result. Now a certain gardener, nam
~ ed Traucat, dreamed one night that
i the golden hen was hidden beneath
1 the "Tour Magne" at Nimes. So
' impressed was he by the vision that
- he sold all that he possessed, bought
a a donkey and set out for Paris to see
,the king. Two months afterward,
a hungry, dirty and in rags he reached
Sthe French capital. To the royal
a guards who barred his 'entrance to
C the Louvre he refused to explain the
i nature of his mission, declaring sim
a ply that he possessed a prodigious se
t eret which could be confided only to
a the ear of the king. So insistent was
'his demand that an audience was fin-i
f glly granted. Henry IV whose very
e elevation to the throne had been gen
Serally regarded as the fulfillment of
Sa certain obscure saying of Nostra
y damus, was disposed to take a ser
ious view of the gardener's dream,
a and, after certain legal preliminaries,
Sissued letters patent, d.ated Fontain
s bleu, May 22nd, 1691, according
a Traucat the permi.,sion and funds
h necessary for an exhaustive search.
e If the fabled treasure was unearth
,ed, one third was to go to Traucat
gand two thirds to the king. The ex
- ecavations were ceremoniously begun.
Lt in the presence of the "procureur
nitaries of State. Th al enturous ih
and credulous gardener. aided by his to
powerful patron, hollowed out the
tower from top to bottom a;id sunk th
a deep shaft into the earth. The u1
golden hen was not discover,ed and ao
Traucat, who feared the royal dis- th
pleasure, fled the country. pa
But in the course of Ihe acava- th
tions certain rare statues and frag- da
ments of ancient works of a. we:e re
biought to light and form today a wi
part of a collection of the Lou)vr,* ga
Perhaps they are of more vaia- thaa no
the golden hen. pi
bu
The Bull-Fight at Arles. ed
(By W. 3. Seabrook.) bu
Augusta Chronicle. ea
Arles, France, Dec. 12.-With a no
vagabond musicia nand an litalian re
barber for company, I shook the scaly eti
dust of Martigues from my feet and
entered the arid plain of Crau, with fo
Arles forty kilometers distant, as yo
our objective point. The Crau is a mi
desert, covered with stones and bl,
boulders, uninhabited and barren of eo
vegetation, a sort of minature Sa- tv
hara, which has resisted all attempts mi
at irrigation and reclamation, ex- cu
cept for an occasional oasis in the lit,
northern district. The road was long, ch
the horizon was vast and monotonous th;
as the ocean and more than once be- he
fore our pilgrimage was ended I an
wished for a camel or an automobile. in
But, finally, one Saturday evening, sp
as the bells of St. Trophime were an
sounding vespers, we reached our ce
goal, and good fortue led me to see sn
hospitality at the quiet inn, which TI
was destined later to become my per- wi
manent "headquarters" in Pro- fo:
ence.
Sunday afternoon I followed the wf
entire able-bodied population of Ar- ht
les to the ancient Roman amphithea- fei
tre. 'les arenes," to witness the fin- pl
al "course de taureaux" of the sea- hu
son, a kind of French version of the lic
Spanish bull-fight, not so dangerous ea
as the latter, but none-the-less exeit- lir
ing and resulting occasionally in er
bloodshed and fatality. A savage bl
bull goaded into blind fury,ris turned ar
loose in the arena, with a red cockade mi
tied securely on his forehead, and the of
beneficent municipality offers a sh
prize of a couple of hundred francs 'en
to the matador or ''razetour'' as he ne
is denominated in the. patois, who th
succeeds in snatching this trophy mi
from its place between the horns of mi
the infuriated animal.
Thirty or forty young men, un- i
armed and clad as for a foot-race, en- ca.
ter the arena and stake their liv-ss in;
n the slender chiance of gaining thir- bh
ty or forty dollars and a few rounds ye
of applause. Truly, a gentle. anid di- he
verting pastime. But, mon dieu, up ee
trere among the arches. sit the belles sO
Arlesiennes, the queenly peasant s
beauties, with -their pretty costumes jm
and their glorious eyes, shivering Igu
with voluptuous pagan delight when I
the pointed horns graze the lithe
body of some daring youth, waiting
impatiently to bsetwo their smiles'
and favors upon the victor. Maybe SV
the young dare-devils are not so 1
foolish after all. Older and wiser coi
en have risked their necks for less. da
The Sunday Tragedy. ,Br
On this particular Sunday after- ifr
noon an accident occurred, and the be
sands of the arena were stained with wi
iuman blood as in the days of Con- lh.
tantine. If I could put in written d1<
words my strange emotions, on wit- sti
nessing the scene, 'the result would Lu
bear little resemblance to this dis- pri
onnected and unpretentious narra- ici
ive; it would be a real literature, and an
possibly real psychology as well. bo
As a newspaper man, ''covering"
police assignments, I have become all
too familiar with bloodshed 'and viol
nt death in various forms; in my Sa
'ub reporter'' days, my sleep wa.s pa
often haunted by visions of a still on
warm corpse outstretched upon some Ca
barroom floor, .or by the recollection
f some mangled, palpitating mass
of flesh and bones dragged from be
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AS. McINTOSH.
Presidnt
.ed to seli sights.
But to resume my storv. Durin
, first half hour I found little o
usual interest in the "course.'' Th
ile razetours moved so lightly oi
air feet and avoided with suci ap
rently eareless ease the rushes o
e ball, that I underestimated th
nger, and in my eyes the scene rep
4ented merely a crowd of farmer
teing a more or less excitin!
me. the fine points of which I dii
t understand. Here and there wer
:-turesque touches of local coloi
t as a whole the audience appear
distressingly commonplace; th
11 wheeled, charged, pawed th
rth. and occasionally snorted, bu
thing came of it, and his manouev
; grew monotonous by force of rep
tion.
All at once. down in the arena,
Dt slipped. The next instant
uthful form, impaled upon th
irderous horns. fell broken an
?ering on the sands. Simultan
,sly a long-drawn gasp arose fron
o thousand throats, an inarticulat
irmuring wave of sound in
nous minor key. that thrilled m
:e an 'electric shock, and left m,
illed and trembling. It was lik
, purring of some gigantic eat tha
Id secure beneath its claws a tori
d palpitating victim. Deep dow
my breast an unknown chord re
anded to the savage harmony, an
unknown soul awoke from twent;
aturies of dreamless sleep. Th
,ell of blood was in my nostril
e lust of blood was abroad on th
nds. Something far away and lon!
,gotten was calling, ealling, calling
E grew faint and dizzy. The aren
s swimming before my eyes in
ninous, red mist. Far below m:
t, in the stony entrails of the am
itheatre. I heard the snarling o
ngry wolves and the roaring o
ns; from long deserted subterran
a passages came the muffled rum.1
ig of chariot wheels;.I heard th
aking of heavy iron hinges, th
tre of trumphets and the clash o
ns, mingled with the clamor of
ghty multitude. Soon the sound
combat ceased, the tumult and th
>uting died away, a breathless sil
ae intervened, and then I heard th
rvous patter of padded feet upo:
sand. A fearful shriek-a w<>
In's voice-pierced the air, and th
st,s were lifted from my 'eves.
[ often wonder whither I was drift
with this hellish vision. Was it
e of sympathetic hypnotims result
from the proximity of those tw<
usand bloodthirsty, excited Pro
eals, who have unquestionably in
ited the traits of their Roman an
tors? Was it a reminiscence o
ie previous existence, or was I
aply the primeval instinct of th
r-beast, revived by hazard an<
ided by the accidents of environ
mt and education 7
Life 100,000 Years Ago.
cientists have found in a care il
itzerland bones of men, who live'
),000 years ago, when life was il
stant danger from wild beasts. To
y the danger, as shown by A. W
own of Alexander, Me., is largel:
>m deadly d'isease. "If it had no
n for Dr. King's N'ew Discovery
ich cured me, I could not havy
ed,'' he writes, "suffering as:
from a severe lung trouble and
bborn cough.'' To care Sor
ngs, Colds, obstinate Coughs, anc
went Pneumonia, it 's the best med
ne on earth. 50c. and $1.00. Guar
teed by W. E. Pelliam & Son. Tria
ttle free.
Attention Pensioners.
[ will be in the auditor's office eaci
turday in January, 1909, to pre
ce applications for pensions. Those
the roll do not have to apply again
11 promptly and get your blanks.
W. G. Peterson,
-Pension Commissioner.
g'ewherry, S. C., Dec. 18, 1908.
LKINQ!
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