The Columbia daily phoenix. (Columbia, S.C.) 1865-1865, June 08, 1865, Image 4
COHIBIA PH?1X.
Important to Ladies.
A visit to the Maison Tilman, of
147 Env-t Ninth Street, New York,
convinces us that Fashion never gave
her votaries a greater profusion of
costly and elegant styles to select from
than in the present season.
Bonnets aro exceedingly small, but
what is wanting in quantity is made
up for in quality, all the materials
being of the linear, choicest kinds, and
thoroughly Parisian. Though trim?
ming is lavishly used, it is hardly re?
quired, so fanciful and decorative are
thc delicate chips; tho pretty Italian
and fine English straws, not to mention
the Neapolitan, which form the dain?
tiest hisket and .V?gree work, dotted j
with small crystal, pe;.ri or jet beads.
Siraw cloth, a mixture of Leghorn
and silk, constitutes some of the most
effective and stylish bonnels. The}
are frequently ornamented with a deli
cate embroidery of beads, and trimmed
with a narrow ribbon cf the same ma?
terial :.s the bonnet; worked with
beal let, black, blue or pm plc. Flowers
are gracefully entwined, and the com- j
bitia?on is generally a very great sue I
cess. These straw ribbons are also ?
much used for the trimming of round
hats, and also border the most expon- j
sive styles of silk ribbons. ?
Bonnets are of different shapes;
some are only a half handkerchief of
silk cr straw, others have short, slop?
ing crowns. The Mr?t style is denned |
by young la lies, or any oue wearing a
waterfall. The latter are more adopted
by ladies who consider the waterfall
toe youthful a style of coiffure. The
shapes are close, some fitting the face !
almost like a cap, and admitting ot but
little face trimming. Curtains aro ig- |
nored by all, though in many the
space accorded to the latter is filled by I
a fail ot lace, or feather fringe; The i
haH' handkerchief bonnets are gene- I
rally trimmed with clustering loops of I
ribbon wilh very long end?, Howers, or
searls of illusion edged with narrow |
blonde lace. Sometimes lhere are but !
two streamers of ribbon, which are
eau jlit together a short distance below
the bonnet by a bow. A pretty style
consists of two scarfs cr strips of il?
lusion half a yard wide, and three
quarters long. These are caught
inside of the front o( the bonnet, pass
over it, and are fastened just over the
waterfall with a tuft ol flowers, or a
mother-of-pearl butterfly, star, or fancy
ornament.
Others have very long tulle stream?
ers to fasten under the chin. Nothing
CHU he lighter and ptetticr than these
scarfs thrown over a !u!ie or crape
bonnet. They aro perishable, we
admit, but exceedingly light and grace?
ful, and can be renewed at a trifling
expense.
A new style of straw bonnet has
the straw pressed out in diamonds,
which gives the effect of tufting, each
little tuft apparently kept in place by
a pearl, crystal, or jet bead.
A very original bonnet in fine En?
glish straw, is embroidered on the
edge of a delicate head-pattern. At
the back two crimped straw pull's,
ornamented with brilliant b'ue en?
amelled insects, lorin a waterfall. This
is surmounted by white ribbon brocad?
ed in the cen1 re in green, scarlet and
black. Scarlet poppies with jet, fancy
grass and narrow quilling of black
lace complete the decora'tions of the
bonnet.
A very beautiful Italian straw is
trimmed with a fall of green feather*.- *
fringe at the back, and lovely trans?
parent sl?a*v ornament-;. Chain*
foi med of straw are caught in festoons,
and hang quite lo.v on the neck. The
ribbon is s:riped straw color an I green,
and has the appearance of fine silk
canvas.
Drawn silk bonnets are greatly in
favor for traveling. The drawing are
far apart, not "mo. o than three being
used. They are generally finished by
a pinked out rose quilling of (he vdlk,
and h'Ops of nobou arranged at the
back of the bonnet. Tho niche is
gi..dilated, being quite, larga jn the
<:. nue. nu 1 furtn.s a ve:y good apology
o- a cintaiu. Bonnets both with and
?. : . . J cr 'Wu-:, ?ire made up in this
s;; e . ly! st??ws, trimmed with
..;i> ou .o m-it^ii, aie clso in high favor.
I'be sn-^w iiake-like tully bonnets,
j aro always attractive, and we think
thom among the prettiest for summer
I wear. They me generally puffed j
lengthwise, nnd ornamented with tulle
! scarfs, which we have already de? j
I scribed, and very rich flowers, with j
I frosted or icy foliage. Falls of silk j
fringe are also employed with good
effect. The strings generally com?
mence at the point of the waterfall
and are thence' brought down under
the chin. So shallow are the shapes,
that the strings almost form the sides
of the boimet.
Crape is very much worn, fulled or I
folded over silk. When the bouuet is j
thin, the front its generally bouud au
inch deep with silk matchings the
crape. Crape, aud crape liese, match?
ing tho bonnet in color, are both em?
ployed for inside ruell inga.
At tho same establishment we find
the greatest variety of crystal and
fancy ornaments, which, however, we
will not bu able to enumerate, as we
must say a few words about round
hats.
One of the newest styles is a Scotch
cap with a inelou shaped crown made
of' a light, scalloped-edged straw, the
indeuture in thu crowu being very
deep. Another shape, termed the
Cracovienue, has a square crown. An?
other shape still is a full, round crown,
willi narrow brim, the same tsize all
roifnd. The cap-shape, however, seems
to be the most popular with young
ladies. There are, of course, many
other very graceful shapes, but those
we have mentioned we think will be
thc most fashionable, as they are made
up in all skes, from babies to ladies.
A novelty, however, consists in cutting
away one half tho crown, and tilling
in the space with black lace finished
with ribbons and flowers. Another
variation of this style has quite a long,
drooping crown of lace; this we do not
like, lt is a kind of a compromise
between a bonnet and hut, aud not
very pretty.
Another fiat, called the Havelock,
thc crown cut away and a very long
bag crowu of colored silk attached, in
which the hair is arranged This is
more novel than pretty, but would
answer very well for a traveling hat,
as the waterfall would be piotected
from the dust.
The most elegant trimmings are
black and white ribbons, brocaded on
the edge or down the centre, iu a rich
cashmere pattern. Heavy ribbons
with scalloped edges fringed. Scarfs
of black lace, jet, straw and euamfel
ornaments; flutters and feathers, also
! Brazilian beetles, iu their peculiar bril?
liant shade of green. This shade of
green has .-.Isp been introduced in a
few ribbons aud feather ornauienLs fol
round hats.
Tbs new color known as "moon or.
the lake," we think a very poetical
but inappropriate title. It is a very
I rich, lovely shade ot pearl color, and
j nothing more. This shade is extreme
j ly fashionable, and can be had iu iib
j hons, silks, crepes, feathers and flowers
! As Mr. Brodie's speciality is wraps
we found at his establishment, in Cana
street, near Broadway, New York, ?
magnificent collection of elegant une
graceful models, which cannot fail t<
give universa! satisfaction.
Among the less costly are the short
lnose cloth sacks of almost every hue
They are made with a straight collar
coat sleeves and pocke's; breast pocket
are frequently simulated by trimming
Some are of a lovely shade of pear
colored cloth with diagonal cords
j others of Chinese grounds, with a soft
plated facing of white; others agaii
ase of a fleecy material, striped, whit
aud mauve, or white and gray. Whit
cloth trimmed with black velvet, an
extremely light shade of cuir, gra)
and a very pink shade are all ver
popular. Tho trimmings consist c
bia k velvet, a gimp formed of worat
ed cord, braids matching the clotl
Tom Thumb fringe, and cords and ta:
sels. Duttons are also extensively use
as decorations, and never have we see
such an elegant variety. Some are th
I size of a small bird's egg, of browi
blu?, white or black, spatiuod bv a ban
o' gold or steel. Others resemble
I cluster of tiny pearls, or a single pea
! the size of a pea. Flat, round ar
square buttons of mother-of-pearl, cry
' tal, or a material resembling wht
j onyx, with a bar of gold or jet acre
them, or else having a small gilt oro
! oeut io the centre, ate --.Iso among tl
nowfcbt. Other novel styles ure of jet
or pearl, strapped aeross with narrow
bands of bright, colored braid, or else
have a mosaic figure in the centre.
Tho ornaments are generally on the
shoulders and up the back, in a pyra<?
rnidal form. Steel id very rftuch wora
OU dresses, and though worn in Paris
on wraps, dues uot take well herc. Tito
combination of jet and silk is generally
preferred, as? it is rich aad loss con?
spicuous than sloe!.
Short sacks are made of silk for
missus, but tlio demiojasfCe or half
tight fitting style, is conshlercd the
most fashionable for young ladies,
the trimmings are rich jet ar.d silk
gimps, and ornaments, chenillo aud
silk cords. These trimmings aro luid
down tho seam.; and form the Culis,
collar and epaulettes. "Others are trim?
med with thick cord and heavy tag?
ged buttons looped across the chest to
the left shoulder, iu the Hungarian
style. All kind of trimmings up the
back aro exceedingly popula?.
On a mantle of very heavy mourn?
ing silk, called very appropriately the
"Grant"' mantle, were Lieutenant
Geueral shoulder bands of black velvet,
with the stars of jet. The same orna?
ment was arrau?ed at the back of the
wrist with admirable effect. Circles are
by no means discarded; they are, how?
ever, reserved for elderly ladies.
Heavy (/ros grain bilk is generally pre- ;
ferred to tho lustrous, and when of
good quality, requires but little trim- !
mino'.
We hive noticed quite a number of
paletots, with a large rosette with very
long streamers of ?ilk ribbon or lace
placed on one shoulder. A very
graceful pardessus was trimmed down
the seams of the skirt, on the front,
and on the sleeves, with flat bows and
ends of silk, with a jet ornament in
the centre. Some of thc paletots
have each Kearn and the edge scallop?
ed and trimmed with lace, fringe, or
feather trimming.
We were shown at Mr. Voger's
establishment. No. 101(5 Chesoutstreet,
Philadelphia, the handsomest assort?
ment of goods in mohair lace that we
have ever seen. So fine are the laces,
and so exquisite the designs, that
unless very closely examiued, they can?
not be detected from thread lace. They
are no common imitation*; but are
really exquisit? articles. Some of the
rotondes, or circles, are exceedingly
long, others asa of moderate length.
They are made'up to suit the most
capricious tastes, some with round, full
hoods, others with square yokes, or
else perfectly plain, with square or
rounded ends in front. Besides these
retondes, aro tho graceful hali shawls
or points, as they are termed, always
fashionable and pretty. Shawls and
circles are also to bo had of white
mohair lace, and no better assortment
of real thread wraps eau be ftxiud in
Philadelphia.
Among the novelties we find the
becoming little Spanish square for the
head, in point applique; also square
capes, a pretty and stylish finish to the
low-necked dresses now so much worn.
The capeline is a pointed cape in black
lace, with hood attached, n very dressy
little affair for a watering place.
For the ornamentation of dresses
there aro bunches of wheat-ears in
black lace, medallions, nyadere trim?
mings, aud long graduated sashes to
hang all round the skiit, and various
other fanciful designs. As these goods
aro all of mohair lace, they are much
less expensive than the thread, and the
effect, at a short distance, is equally as
good. For wash dresses, there is a
thread bice resembling Valenciennes,
which has the merit of washing and
wearing well, and being about half
the price of tho ordinary Valencieiirtes.
For neglige wear, there are bhet
land shawls of all styles and colors,
also coverings for ibo head.
[Godey's Lady s Book, for June
'When a stranger treats me with
want of respect,' said a philosophic
poor man, 'I comfort myself with tho
reflection that it is not myseif that he
slights, but my old shabby coat and
hat, which, to say the truth, have no
particular claim to admiration. So if
my hat and coat choose to fret about
it, let them, but it is notbiog lo rae.'
f Keep him at least three paces dis
taut who batos music uud the laugh oi
a child.
HOME DIFFICULTIES.-Tho house- ]
mother has her difficulties, aye, be she |
ever so gifted with that bleared quality j
of tabing them lightly and cheerfully. ?
It is noe pleasant for \a?y ladies to get
breakfast over at that 'regular early
hour which alone sets a household
fairly agoing for tho day-; nor for un?
arithmetica! ladies, who liave always
recko?ed their accounts by sixpences,
to put down each item, and persevere
in balancing periodically receipts and
expenditures; uor for weakly, nervous,
self engrossed ladies to rouse thc mselves
sufficiently to put their house itt order,
and keep it so, not by occasional spas?
modic 'setting to rights,' but by a
Ceneral methodical overlooking of all
that is going on therein. Yet, unless
ail this is done, it is vain to insist on
early rising, ov grumble about wast-e,
or lecture Upon neatness, cleanliness,
and order. The seiVattts get to leam
that 'Missis is never in time!' and
laugh at her Complaints of their un?
punctuality. They see uo use in good
management or avoidance of waste:
'Missis never knows about anything.'
She may lecture til* she is weary
about neatness and cleanliness: 'Just
put your head into her room" ?nd see!'
For all moral qualities, good temper,
truth, kindliness, and above al!, con?
scientiousness,- if these are deficient in
tho unstress, it is idle to expect them
from servants, or children, or auv
members of the family circle."
[Woman's Thoughts about Women.
WINKS.-"Men who preferred port
wine to claret, as the English in Queen
Anne's time, could have had no souls
worth speaking of. See how our
literature fell off. The Elizabethans
quaffed Sack, or 'Gascoyne or Rochelle
wyn,' and we had tho intellectual
giants of those davs. The Charles II
comedy writers worked on claret. Port
then came into fashion; port sapped
our brains; and instead of Wyeherlv's
'Country Wife' and Vanburgfs 'Re
kipse,' we had Mr. Morton's 'Wild
Oats* and Mr. Cherry's 'Soldier's
Daugh'er/
The best French winos are grown in
the wild and savage country of the
Medoc, in the South west of France,
in tho neighborhood of lb>rbeaurg,
and along thc course of thu Garonne.
The principal are, St. Julienne, Lee?
ville, Chateau la Lafitte, Chateau de
Rose and Chateau de Marguax. These
are cultivated on tho high road be?
tween liiirdeaux and Panillas.
The Rhone wines are hot ano fiery;
those of Italy and the Levact are
sweet aud mild.
Cette, a town on the Mediterranean,
is famous fur its adulteration of good
and fabrication of bad wines. Fort,
Sherry and Madeira aro fabricated in
abundance from any cheap wine mixed
with brandy. To the grateful Yan?
kees, Cette annually sends thousands
of tout of Ay and Moet; besides no
end of Johanisburg, Hermitage and
Chateau Mayaux."
[Roche's *Claret and Olives.'
On Monday, .rune 14th, 'the mort?
gage deed for tho sale of a house in
l(il3, bearing lira autograph signature
of Shaksp.-are, the most clearly writ?
ten specimen known,' was sold at
auction in London. Tbi< is said, iu
ihb'lllustrated London 2Vei*n, ut tht
5th, to he 'the only autograph of
Shakspeare in private hands, and thc
ouly one which money is ever likelj
to buy. Only five unmistakable auto
graphs of Shakspeare are known, (for
wej do not believe even the Florie in
the British Muslin,) viz: the three
signatures to his will on three sheets
the sigiiKtures to the deed in the
Guildhall Library, and this, ol- tht
Garrick autograph, now offered to tin
greatest admirer with the longes
purse. The Guildhall Library docu
ment is the counterpart of the convev
ance of a house in Ireland-yard, no?n
to the Blackfriars Theatre, whicl
Shakspeare bought in 1C12, and be
queathed by will to his daughter
Susanna Hall. It is genuine bey om
dispute.'
There is a farmer in Yorkshire win
hits a mile aral a half children. Hi
name is Furlong, and he has four boy
and eight giris. Eight furlongs mah
a mile.
In China, if a man is not marrie
by twenty, he is drummed out of tb
town.
I
\
A TOUCHING INCIDENT.-Somo
gentle-rrieu passing through the beauti?
ful village of Henton, in the valo of
Leven, ?umb?Ttonshite, about, nine
o'clock at night, a few days ago, had
their attention directed lo a dark
object in the cb'urch-yard. On going
to ascertain what it was, they found H
boy, of tender years, lying Ant on his
fa?je, and apparently Bound asleep, over
a newly made grave. Thinking this
not a very safe bc d fer him, they shook
him up and auked him how he came
to be there? He said he was afraid
to go homo, as his sister, with whom
he resided, had threatened to bear, birr..
'And where does your sister live?'
asked one of the party. *In Dum?
barton/ was the answer. 'Tu Dum?
battot?-nearly four miles off, and how
came you to wander so far away fi om
horne?' SI just cam','sobbed the poor
liHlo fellow, 'because Div mither's grave
was here.' His mother bad been buried
there a short time before, and his
seeking a refuge at her grave in his
sorrow, was a beautiful touch of nature
in a child who could scarcely have yet
learned to realizo the true character
of that separation which knows of no
reunion on earth. Thither had he in?
stinctively wandered, to sob out bia
sorrows, an ! to moisten with tears th?i
grave of one who bad hitherto been
his nal ural protector, for he had evi?
dently cried himself to sleep.
[North British Mail.
Lord Lyndhurst tells a good story
apropos of the surrender of the gi eat
seul of the English ministry in 184G.
'When 1 went to the palace.' says his
lordship., '1 alighted at the grand stair?
case; 1 was received by the sticks of
gold and silver, and other officers of
tho household, who called in sonorous
tones from landing to landing, and
apartment to apartment, 'room for the
lord high chancellor of England.' I
entered the presence chamber; I gav?
tire seals to her majesty; I bad the
honor of kissing her hand; I left the
apartment by another door, and found
myself on a buck staircase,- down
which I descended without any one
taking any notice of me, until, as I
was looking for my carriage at tho
outer door, a lackey bustled np, and,
with a patronizing air, said, 'Lord
Lyndhurst, can I do anything for you?'
We like old forms and customs.
We like to seo men cling to then-ages
of their ancestors. We like old habits,
unless they are made of dry goods,
and then they should be cast aside
when they l?eme seedy.
When a man succeeds in life it is
no unusual thing to hear him dubbed
a 'lucky dog;' but if we look buck
upon the great games of life as played
by successive individuals, it will be
found that the trmnp card was pluck.
Persons Traveling
cjucK a., TO any point can be iccorn
ejgsSaPimodated With a TWO-HORSE
SPRING WAGOX. at liberal terms, by
inquiring at this office. June 7 3
Mrs. Henry
HAS opened a DAY SCHOOL in the
College Camplin. She will alno teach
ber pupils the rudiments of MUSIC and
SINGING free of charge. June 7 ii
TINWARE
JW. RMI TU is prepared to furnish
. TINWARE nt, wholesale or retail.
All orders promptly attended to, at his
resilience. Taylor street, opposite Sidney
Park. lt KP A IRING done at shortest
notice. . June 7 4*
RICE! RICE!
f"|"MIE undersigned has for ?ale a small
JL quantity of prime whole RICF-, and
offers it in lots to suit purchasers.
WM. SHEPHERD,
Winn street, near Charlotte Depot.
June 7 2*
Mrs. Pelot's Class
FOR the instruction of Yonne Ladies
in the beautiful art of PENMAN?
SHIP, will meet at. 9 o'clock a. m., nt. her
residence. South side of the College Cam?
pus, next door to Headquarters Class for
Young Men will meet at 4 o'clock p. m.
Terms moderate. June 7 3
The Misses T- W. Mordecai,
BEING desirous of taxing a limited num?
ber of pupils, will open a School for
young ladies and children of both sexes. All
the branches of an English education will
be taught; also, French and Music. Pen?
manship strictly attended to. This class
will meet three times a week. Terms for
writing. 25 cents a lesson, payable weekly
in advance. Apply K*- Mr. R. Keenan's
residence, comer Kichload ?nd Sumter
streets. 1 ?