Historical Newspapers of South Carolina

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MAKING curri Process ol' Shoddy JVI'n "Last year's r:if:s arc this year's clothes," said a maker of shoddy t<> a Sunday News reporter thc oilier day. "It will doubtless surprise many people to learn that they are wearing their lar>i year's east eil clothing it) tho new appurcl they have bought this je.'.r, yet such is frequently the fact, discarded socks, worn-out un dcr*c!othing and eas! off garments "I' all kinds eventually lind their way into thc ragbags and front lhere in the rae dealers and then t>> the ma itifac turer of shoddies and l! ?oks, win re thc tattered remuants o!' uliat were once sartorial triumphs ure reconverted into a semblance ?d' the original wool. After that tho cloth is once more made into clothing." Millions of pounds of raj.:s are brought to a shoddy mill in this city in thc course of every year, and after going through a berief? ol' processes are converted into cloth. To manu facturers this is known as shoddy; to tho public it is often "all wool and a vnr/1 *?>dc. A representative of the makers, who took thc Sunduy New? man through the extensive plant tho other day, ?n.id: "There is a strange misapprehension in tho mind of thc public about shod dy. They kuow it is somothiog made of rags and that is about all. If you were to ask the average man what he knows about shoddy he would tell you it waB a coarse material that was used in making rag carpets or something equally ridiculous. Tho ordinary mau would beoome highly indignant if you told him that he was wearing shoddy, and would deny it in thc most em phatic manner and assert that tho goods were pure wool. Well, they aro right aud at thc same limo they are wrong. "All shoddy is wool, and tnoBt of it is tho wool that lias been previously uaed in the manufacture of woolen cloth. That cloth, having been made into garments which have served their time, is put through a process which makes it again the wool of commerce. Tho underclothing, socks, coats, waistocp'i, trousers and dresses, which were + oru in all their pristine fresh ness a year ago, may bo serviug you again in the same way, whilo you know nothing about it. Of course it seems strange to tell a man that his handsome new winter overcoat is com posed in part of old Hooks, under shirts and the odds and ends of dis carded dresses, but it is often tho fact nevertheless. "It is the presence of shoddy io tho goods we wear that makes our cloth ing BO cheap to-day, and enables us to indulge in such a variety. Tho UBO of shoddy enables us to buy our clothes at one-half the prioo we would have to pay if thc material was composed of nothing but tho wool as it oome direct ly from the sheep-shearers. : 1 pe? nf Clnoh When you can't eat break ; fast, take Scott's Emulsion. When you can't cat bread and butter, take Scott's . Emulsion. When you have been living on a milk diet and want something a little more nourishing, take Scott's Emulsion. To get fat you must eat fat. Scott's Emulsion is a great fattener, a great strength giver. Those who have lost flesh want to increase all body tissues, not only fat. Scott's Emulsion increases them all, bone, flesh, blood and nerve. For invalids, for con valescents, for consumptives, for weak children, for all who need flesh, Scott's Emulsion is a rich and com fortable food, and a natural tonic Scott's Em ul s i o n for bone, flesh, blood and nerve. We will send you a free sample, i Be sure thai this picture ta the form of a label is on the wrapper of every bottle of frau! sion you buy. SCOTT & BOWNE, CHEMISTS, 400 Peart St, N.Y. SOc and $11 all druggist*. I OUT OF RAGS. lin facture; at a Newark int. "The revamped wool, when it leaves ! this shoddy shop, is in every partieu \ lar as chemically pure an the scoured I wool, and tho only difference i i that j thc htaplc of -hoddy is slightly short ; er than that ?d' thc virgin wool. When it i- lisped a second time in making guimcuts il ??hows r o trace of injury tn iii" cloth, and to all intents and purposes il presents the outward ap pearance of virgin wool. That is why iL is ucd HO fi neraliy in all go(.<is which have a w >.<diMi Htr?cturc. " lt. i . to say tiri*, ii' :i cloth seller or <i? aler in clothing should say to a prospective cu s to mer that there wa - hhoddy in a fabric, thc customer would indignantly refuse to buy it, hut tho fact is that lhere is not one person i:i a thousand who can toll at a glance whether a piece ol' goods is i shoddy or virgin wool. The dealers * in thc goods themselves, as a rule, ' cannot tell the differcuco when a tiuo ! grade of shoddy is used. Tho only I distinctive mark, and that is not al I ways a eenuin ono, is the price, for ' the fabric mado of virgin wool costs ? twico as much as that composed in ; part of shoddy. Thoo themis shoddy j that varies in quality just as tho origi nal wool does. Sumo is of so fino a texture that it eludes tho detection of all save experts, and then there are thc coarser grades that proclaim their origin to the most inexpert." Thc shoddy maker proceeded through the plant with thc roportcr, aud cxpluincd thc processes by whioh old clothing is made into new. In thc yards of tho shop rag dealers were un loading bales upon hales of shreds and patches of what had onco been clothing, uud these were being taken to thc siorc room to await their turn j for reconversion into their orginal eic ! moots. ? "These rags are put through nine ? different processes in tho course of our treatment before they aro ready to : be made into fabrics again," explain , ed the reporter's escort and guide, i "Wo oun, if thc oeaasion requires it, . take the rugs that come in to-day and j tum them out to-night as carded wool, i That is tho extent ot our work here wc do not go into thc conversion of wool, or shoddy, into doth. We mere ly supply the material for the cloth makers. Our chief work isreolaimiog tho wool fibre, just as founderies and manufacturers of copper and brass Bave what is known as the waste ma terial in their business by reclaiming it. Our endeavor is to extraot the fibre in its original state by washing and drawing out the good that has not been worn or injured in the origi nal doth. The short, brittle twists of yarn are lost in the process of ren ovating the wool. Fully 65 por oent of tho material is lost to us in the oourse of our reclamation. "The first process is to disinfect and oarbonize tho waste material, after it comes into our hands. The rags are plaeed in a huge hexagonal iron box, which is kept revolving within a bricked inolosure, like an oven. This is connected with an acid generator, whioh receives its supply of acid from a orock standing outside thc oven. The tcm.v.:rituro of the oven is kept at 2-10 degrees,?while tho disinfeotion is going on. The heat and tho adds destroy all the cotton wcavo and out of a bundle of doth there will only re main a handful of wool. This is known as tho dry bath." There is also a wet process, by whioh thc samo results are obtained, and this is applied to different grades of goods, ll Sumo times tho rags are sorted before they aro put through this process. This ia particularly tho caso when they come direct from tho mills. C The waste material, ends of piece goods, bundles of tangled yarns and similar material, aro sorted into I colors, light and dark, before they are subjected to the bath treatment. OS Thc nest proceeding is to put tho rags through? the duster, a big square wooden box, whioh conceals an end less wiro noreen and paddles whioh beat tho dust out of the material as it is carried along the screen. An ex haust fan carries off thc dust that falls through the screen. After this the stock is neutralized by placing it in a washing machine, where it is subjected to a thorough iaimersion in a solution of soda ash and ammonia. This machine is simi lar to that used in paper mills for wood pulp, a circular copper drum, inside of whioh is a tub, perforated like a steve and having a paddle which boats the material as it is rapidly revol ved. A skimmer is employed to skim off the dirt as it comes to the surface of the tub. When theogooda have been taken fron the washer they are placed in wiroi trucks to dry, and after that they aro thrown into the hydro-oxtrao tor. The dryiog machine is a series pf wooden compartments, forty-five foi t lung through which air, ?it a tem- ; peraltac of front 120 to 'JSD degrees, is | circulated, Thc material is eat ried through thc compartments un an end less wire apron aud the dust is fan ned out during the progress. <)aeo ! more thu material is dusted in a box like machine containing heavy pad dles and a coarse wire screen through which the ?hort, light Obres, which are useless, are carried off. This is a very dirty part of tho work, and the men employed at it arc usually covered with a coating of Gae fibres. Sume of them wear clothes over their mouths and nostrils tu avoid inhaling thc tine stuff as it fills the room about the machine. Again tho substance is sorted into tine and course grades. Alter that it is saturated with olive oil, IO re store ilie animation which ibo wool has lost through tho washing and heat ing processes. The picking of tho rapidly dissol ving material thc next proceeding, and it is <>ne ol' thc most interesting of the many. The picker is a machine rmi unlike a bitf printing press, with larne cylinders and sets ol' nd!-,. A steel cylinder is covered with teeth, which pick out the heavier parts nf thc material as it passes under it, while the lighter material, that is the much desired wool fibres, is caught by the corrugated rolls and automati cally passed through tho feed rolls. In this process all semblance of tho original rags is lost. The shoddy is now a mass of flimsy 6tuff with the wool predominating; aod here aud there shreds of cotton that have not been entirely eradicated in thc pre ceding operations. A man stands by to take out the cotton weave and leave the yarn. All is now ready for the carder, which does the final work prior to packing it in bales for shipment to the cloth manufacturers. The stock is fed into iron baskets on the carding machines, and these baskets operate automatically and feed it into rollers. The stock is passed from one roller to another, until it finally comes out at tho end of tho machine in tho form of a batting, as it is rolled around thc last cylinder. All the short brittle threads of wool have been taken out, and what remain aro tho longer threads as they have beep extracted from tho fabrics which came into the shop as rags or the waste ends of mill ma terial. There are '200 grades of rags, and all these aro carefully sorted into tho right classes before they reach the pieker machine. Italian women are employed in the sorting, and whilo it may not seem much of an achieve ment to distinguish one kind of rags from another, some of the sorters are very expert. Some rags contain more wool than others and are valuable in that respect, whilo others have wool of a finer quality, and it is desirablo in the making of the different grades of shoddy to obtain all the fine wool possible. The Newark shop tnrns out from 8,000 to 10,000 pounds of shoddy daily, and it is estimated that of the millions of pounds of rags gathered hore every year a goodly proportion comos baok again in the form of cloth ing for men, women and children. Flock is a variation of shoddy under another commercial name, and its manufacture has been taken up recent ly by the local firm. Flock is mado from "shearings" or small particles of woolen eloth shorn from the cloth in tho mills th J, make fine faced woolen goods. The flock is out and ground ir.to fine parti?les and is used ugain in tha making of heavy-weight material, the kind used for better ijuality over coatings. Somo idea of tho ramifications of tho industry may be gathered from the fact that tho firm manufactures over 800 different kinds of shoddy varyiug in color and quality. Some of the higher grades of the shoddy cost more than thc lower grades of virgin wool. The first shoddy was made in Bat ley England, io 181H, and for years was looked upon with intense disfavor, but thc improvements made io ma chinery for its mannfaoture during the last two decades tended to im prove tho quality of thc material, and since then it has become an important article of commerce. It was introduced in this country about sixty years ago, and the first shop iu this city was started by the present firm about twen ty tivo years ago. Sinco then tho firm has increased its capacity more than five-fold.-Newark News. To Cure a Cold In One Day Take Laxativo Bromo Quinine Tablets. AU druggists refund the money if it fails to oura. E. W. Grove's signa ture is on eaoh box. Price 25c. - - No man has the heart to say "No" when a girl asks if he really and truly loves her. -Beware bf the tireless worker who is always trying to work you. - A baohelor says it's woman's art to deceive and man's folly to be lieve. - About the time the average man succeeds in developing a theory it explodes. -- Love that has nothing bat beau ty to keep it alive ia very apt to be thort-lived. CODES OF THE KITCHENS. Pules T(;at Govern Cocks Ccneraiiy Duo to Cuperstitionc. "Take II good lump of fresh but ter ami roll ii in ll?.MT, place ii in a lined saucepan with a half pint of good, rich cronin, stir it gently over a low lire, always tho same way, till ii begins to simmer." 'l in- rec ipe for tho making ol' melted butter is quoted from ?in old fashioned cookery honk of a century ago, hut th'.- direction to stir "always thc sm:<- way" i? observed ns religiously today as it was then and probably will h?, fo:- a thousand years to 1 como. All cooks of all nations stir in<t only tin? same wry, hut also from east to west, a sure indication ih:it tho practico originated with sun worshipers. Sneaking ol' stirring brings to mind I liai in most households coiintr, ones, at least-thc practice of the wlioje fainiiy joining to stir tin- Christmas .[dum pudding is still in vogue. There are many peculiar old fashioned superstitions connect ed with cooking:. For install?e, in Scotland when oat cakes arc being baked ii is still customary tu break oil' a little piece ami throw il into the ?ire. At one time whenever a baking was made., which was per haps once a jmmtli only, a cake was made with nine knobs on it. ICach ot' tho company broke one oil' and, throwing it behind him, said, ''This I give to thee; preserve thou my sheep," ment ?oiling the name of a noxious animal-fox, wolf or eagle. A roast pheasant is usually sent up with the tail feathers. This practice is a memorial of the days when a peacock was skinned before roasting and when cooked was sewed in its plumage again, its beak gild ed and so served. Tossing the pan cake is another interesting food su perstition. Formerly thc master of the house was called upon to toss the Shrove Tuesday pancake. Usu ally he did it so clumsily that tho contents of the ?ian found their way to the lloor, when a line was de manded by the cook. The custom is still kept up at Westminster school, where a pancake is tossed over the bar and scrambled for. The one who secures it is rewarded with a guinea. The origin of the cross on hot cross buns is u matter of dispute. There is little doubt that cakes partly divided into four quarters were made long before the Christian era. At one time it was believed that broad baked on Good Friday would never grow moldy, and a piece of it grated was kept in every house, being supposed to be ii sov ereign remedy for almost any kind of ailment to which man is subject. In many parts of England i? is con sidered unlucky to oiler a mince pic to a guest. It must be asked for. -Boston Journal. The Boetoneso For lt. She was a spectacled lassie from Boston and had taken charge of a country school. Two or three weeks later one of the trustees visited the school. "Well, how are you getting along ?" ho asked. "V?ry nicely now, thank you," she replied, "but it was hard at first." 'Is that so?" "Oh, yes. You see, in the begin ning I tried moral suasion as a cor rective measure, but, failing iu thai, I resorted to a tangible instrumen tality." "A what?" gasped the simple minded trustee. "A tangible instrumentality," she replied sweetly -"a good, stout hickory switch, don't you know." New York Press. Baso Deception. She was a charming litt)'? thing, but she was not familiar "wita the country and its ways. Still, al though she was from London, that great brute of a cousin of hers had no right to attempt to deceive her. Ile had volunteered to show her round the f^rm, and by and by they strolled into the cow shed. "Dear mc, how closely the poor cows are crowded together!" she re marked. "Yes," he said. "But, you see, we're obliged to pack them close." "Why ?" "So that they'll give condensed milk," he said without a blush. And thc dear girl smiled and said she hadn't thought of that.-An swers. WHY THE JUROR HELD OUT. Thc Secret That Waa Imparted to an English Chief Justice. Tho most remarkable case of a ! jury * * s i : i i : 11 j : i out" against what j seemed irrefutable testimony, and ! ?ill through thc resolution of ono j man, occurred before Chief Justice Dyer many years ugo. He presided ?ii a murder trial in which ^every thing went against the prisoner, who on his part could only say that on his going to work in tho morn ing he had found thc murdered niau dying and tried to help him, where by he had become covered with , blood, but when the mau presently died he had come away and said nothing about it because he was known to have had a quarrel with the deceased and feared he might get into i rouble. The hayfork with which the niau had been mur dered had the prisoner's name on it. Ju other i poets his guilt appeared to be clearly established, ami thc chief justice was convinced of it, but the jun* returned a verdict of "Xol guilty/' This was Chic! Justice Dyers . .a c, and he put sonn.' very search ing (?nestions to the high sherill. The cause ot* thc acquittal, said thc oflicial, was undoubtedly ih<* fore man, ? farmer of excellent charac ter, esteemed by all his neighbors and very unlikely to he obstinate or vexatious. "Then," said the judge, "1 must see t li is foreman, for on explanation of the matter I will have." Thc foreman came, and aft er extracting from his lordship a promise of secrecy proved at once that the prisoner had been rightly acquitted, "for," said he, "it was I myself who killed the man." lt lind been no murder, for tho other had attacked him with the hayfork, and-as he showed-se verely injured him, but in the strug gle to get possession of the Aveapon he had the misfortune to give the man a fatal wound. He had no fears as to his being found guilty of murder; but, the assizes being just over, his farm and affairs would have been ruined by a confession, through lying in jail so long, so he suffered matters to take their course. Ile was horrified to lind one of his own servants accused of I the murder. He supported his wife and children whilo in jail, managed to be placed on the jury and elected foreman. He added that if he had failed in this he would certainly have confessed to his own share in the business, and the judge believed him. Every year for fifteen years the judge made inquiries as to the fore man's existence, and at last, hap pening to survive him, he consider ed himself free to tell the story. London I\cvs. She Treasured His Scalp Lock. "I suppose," remarked the man T <.o prides himself on his winning M ays, with the other sex, "that in tho pretty locket you are wearing i there is some memento-some token ! of a past love affair." I "How did you guess it?" asked the dazzling creature beside him. I "Yes, there's a remembrance-a lock of my husband's hair'" The man of fascinati manner looked surprised. "Why," said he, "I had no idea that you were a wid ow. They told me, if I mistake not, that your husband was alive!", "And so he is," responded the beautiful woman, "but his hair is gone."_ Stopping the Ruth. I A clergyman once preached a long sermon from the test "Thou aro ; weighed in the balance and found wanting." After the congregation j had listened about an hour some began to get weary and went out. Others soon followed, greatly to the annoyance of the minister. Anoth er person started, whereupon the parson stopped his sermon and said: "That is right, gentlemen. As fast as you are weighed pass out." He continued his sermon at some length after that, but no one disturbed him I by leaving.-V. C. i _< ' CASTORIA. BeftrMhd ^9ThB KM You Hare Always BougM rr - G<?d never fotgeitt tbe nnui who forgets him-? IF. - The aver?K? ag? of United StHtcK senator* \* now 59 years. Kuhl HTM lei's than 45 MALARIA il Germ Infected Air? . Malaria is not confined exclusively to the swamps I^ll??J? and marshy regions of the country, but wherever there is f?i^3l bad air this insidious foe to health is found. Poisonous W^i^h vapors and gases from sewers, and the musty air of damp [|??i^-l cellars are laden with the germs of this miserable disease, . HraBpif which are breathed into the lungs and taken up b, ti.e flHf?li blood and transmitted to every part of the body. Then jRpg?||^ you begin io feel ont of sorts without ever suspecting; the p| cause. No energy or appetite, duH headaches, sleepy and gi jg tired and completely fagged out from the slightest ex er- ll wL v tion, are some of the deplorable effects of thia enfeebling BSPR malady. As the disease progressesand the blood becomes . ^vTO wi more deeply poisoned, boils and abscesses anet dark or ??c?Kr"\ yellow spots appear upon the skin. When the poison is ??~%gpf?li^L left to ferment and the microbes and gerin s to ni uM. i ply in 7^?5S^S>^-??. the blood, Liver and Kidney troubles and othe. serious complications often arise. As Malaria begins and develops in the mood, the treatment to be S_ 'j,, i ".> effective mast begin there too. S. S.: & destroys />*>^ the germs and poisons and pari Ces the polluted V^>^ Vto^V J^000^ an<* under ita tonic effect the debilitated K3I K)I constitution rapidly recuperates and the system is V*-*R V?-^?oon clear of all signs of this <* pressing disease. S. S. S. is a guaranteed purely vegetable remedy, auld, pleasant and harmless. Write us if you want medical* advice or any special informa tion about yor.r case. Thia will cost you nothing. GETS AT THE<JOINTS FR?II THE INSIDE '4 BEGINS VORK with1 the first dose, cleansing the acids that produ "*T out all the dangi S body--that is t d of all the poisonous rMAT?SM, driving . is that infest the es are effected by Other medicines treat symptoms; Rheumacide removes tb* cause, and, therefore, its CURES ARE PERMANENT. Helps thc digestion, tones up the system. Sample bottle free on applicat? n to BOBBITT CHEMICAL CO., PW prietors, 316 West Lombard St., Baltimore, Md. fi Special attention is invited to a new -shipment of ACORN STOVES AND RANGES Which we have just received, and which includes the very latest patterns,, both coul or wood, adapted to the requirements of this market. If you require anything in the Stove or Uange line we solicit an oppor tunity to explain the merits of THE ACORN We also carry a complete and up-to date line of TINWARE, WOOD EN WARE and HOU*E FURNISHINGS. Guttering, Plumbing ai d Electric Wiring executed on short notice ours truly, _ ARCHER &. NORRI 8. THE HOLLY AND THE MISTLET 0 Aro in berry and it reminds ns that CHRISTMAS IS COMING. THE first of December is the time for us to cut prices. You want a CHRISTMAS PRESENT for your wife, daughter or sweet heart. The C. A. REED MUSIC HOUSE has everything in this line to? brighten the nome, cheer the heart and please the fancy. Pianos, Organo, Small Musical Merchandise. And Sewing Machines, In great variety. C?l], investigate, and gt-t prices. THE C. A. REED MUSIC HOUSE. D. S. VANDIVER. J. J. MAJOR. E. P. VANDIVER. VANDIVER BROS. & MAJOR, - DEALERS IN Carriages, Buggies, Wagons and Harness. WE have tried to give you aa liberal treatment as it was possible for us to extend, and now we ask you, one and all, to be PROMPT in your SETTLEMENT with us. .Please bear this in mind, and e etti o the very earliest day possible, and greatly oblige. If yon Need a BUGGY weahave them Cheapw Yours truly, t. VANDIVER BROS. & M? 5?R. Tv a triurwinriTi XS. K>. Tlllll/lliail. JU. JT. T All JLFX V JQiXt?. VANDIVER BROS,, GKNEBAL MERCHANTS. WE have a splendid Stock of STAPLE GEOCERIES' On hand at prices that no Firm can beat and few equal. ; Splendid Line of Shoes and Staple Dry Goods. wgx, If you OWE US ANYTHING we believe wo would appreciate a PROMPT SETTLEMENT jost a little more than anybody. Try us and see if we don't. ' , Yours for'Trade and Collections, VANDIVER BROS. AU W?LfflBBB? WE would like for all the People in Anderson County to come to us for their, wants in tho Our Stock is lui ger ard more completethan it ?aa ever been. Patent Medicines, Chemicals, Stationery, Painte^Seeds, Artist Materials, Perfumes,* And in fact anything that id fiiund in an Up*t?-DateTJrug Store. Oi?r^C3rra.v <?? Go ss ST. KO BETTER PIANOS lim WKL^T* ^^^^La how cen s?en high grade Pianos be ?1 S?S2~-'r^had 80 '^sonable? Well, it's this i^- pf^3SSSB?i way: Pianos aro being sold at too BB! m EB III IV^?W great a profit, I save you from 25 to ral H W * J ULflS?B I ^ Per c?nt m ^e c^st. I am my own ?O JJj^^^^^^SB^t book-keeper, sal?man acd^collector A^E-T^g^tf^^workfd-over, seoond-baDd repossssed W f^*-T^^ /40 Btoci** do nofc ^tt?t kind* ?^yo? ^ M^r,",l,,;ll"IIM|^?^.M^,^y, are alright^ our credit is good withme Th > best Re^d O^gan bj tba world is the "Osjpenter." Will move k> Express c?Sce Beoembor Isl M. ?* WJIXI3.