! Car fonder patonts liavo of late been
issued from the Washington Patent
Office at the rate of seven a week.
The General Assembly of tho North
ern Presbyterian Church has resolved
that it hos and will have control of
the theological seminaries, whether the
trustees consent or not.
?.The craze over roller skates somo
years ago is nowhere near so sweeping
and widespread in its effects ns the
present craze over tho bicycle,"main
tains the Chicago Record.
Our Chief Naval Constructor, Iltoh
born, says that twelve-inch guns are
the largest necessary to get the bet
results. His conclusions ?re based on
the experiments of foreign Pow.-rs, anil
the outcome of the Japanese war.
. General Booth, of thc Salvation
Army, is planning to send euch au in
dustrial colony to Canada as will as
tonish tho world. His scheme com
prehends the transportation of 10,000
persons, and he is sanguine that these
peoplo will stay and prosper there.
With a population about half that
of this country, Franco is getting
along toward the billion dollar mar!;
in annual expenses. The interest on
tho National debt is $370,000,000, and
tho cost of the array and navy ?18 ),?
000,000. The revenues this year are I
estimated at .36G3,000,000, and u defi
cit of about SI0,000,OOO is probable.
It is not generally known, declares
the Now York Sun, that "the territory
proposed to bo annexed to this city
slightly exeeods in area the present
annexed district. The new area meas
ures 13,000 acres, which is nearly
equal to the area of Manhattan Islaud.
Tho entire area of tho city is now
about 41* square inilc?>. With thc
new annexation it will bo a little short
of sixty-four square miles. New York
even then will bo ono of the smallest
in area of tho large American cities."
Tho English ruliu3 classes ure show
ing a high degree of intelligence in
tho manner of their recruiting system,
admits tho Atlanta Constitution. They
havo got rid of thc fundamental idea
of an aristocracy of birth. They no
longer insist that ia order to be en
titled to rule others tho aristocrat
must bo able to trace his pedigree
back to Odin and Thor. They arc
carefully constructing a now aristoc
racy on tho fundamental principle
that tho strong are entitled to rule thc
weak. Whenever in tho England of
to-day a strong man appears thc rul
ing class at once attempts to concil
iate him. He may be a successful
browor, or a great aud powerful pawn
broker or an artist or a poet or nu ac
tor or a soldier. It makes no differ
ence what he is or where ho comes
from. If he shows ttrengtb, if he
demonstrates his abilty to thrust his
way to tho front in the struggle for
existence, if ho has shown tho power
to push the weak aside or even if he is
merely excellent without being ag
gressive, he is watched in the hope
that his strength can be added to that
of the governing class.
If there was ever au historical event
of peace that deserved commemoration
by painting or statuury it was the lay
ing of the Atlantic cable, maintains
tho New York Independent. In our
own history tho Declaration of Inde
pendence or the signing of the Eman
cipation Proclamation may bc greater,
but they wero evora ts of war as well
os of peace. It is highly proper that
thc Chamber of Commc-rce of New
York City should havo houored thc
memory of Cyrus W. Field and tho
distinguished men who were associated
with him-Peter Cooper, Moses Tay
lor, Marshall O. Roberts, Wilson G.
Hunt, Samuel F. B. Morse, Chandler
White and David Dudley Field, by
the unveiling of a noble painting of
tho projectors of tho Atlaatio cable,
by the venerable artist, Dauiel Hunt
ington. Mr. Field is represented as
standing by a tablo in the presenco of
his scated associates, and oxplaining to
them his project on a map. Mr. Do
pe v delivered the address in honor oE
Mr. Field. Two brothers of Cyrus
W. Field aro now living, ono Justico
Field, of tho United States Supreme
Court, tho other, Dr. Henry M. Field,
of tho Evangelist. Justice Brewer, of
tho Supremo Court, is his nephew.
311 rra!ions of a Cat.
A well-known resident of tho city
is tho owuer of a cat that has proved
its right to bo classjd as a reasonable
being as clearly as a cat can. The
gontloman removed to his present
residence from Coronado last May,
and took thc cat with him. Thc ani
mal was not satisfied with tho ne v
quarters and disappeared. Nothing
was heard of it for somo months, whe n
it was learned that tho cat bad so-.no
how made its woy to tho ol I homo at
Coronado. The new ten tuts treated
tho cat iu a way that oau?ed it great
anguish, kicking it out of tko houij
and allowing it to starve.
Tho treatment had th;* effoct ufter a
timo of scuding tho cat away in dis
gust. It then came straight back to
tho new home, whero it know it would
be well treated. It appeared there
thin as a shadow, and has not mile
any more efforts to get away. As the
bay is more than a half a milo wide
and as the cat could uot easby have
taken the ferry, it is apparent that it
made its way around the head of tho
bay, a distance of fully fifteen miles,
in order to reaek its friends.-^San
Piogo (Cab) Uaiou,
? ? _ '_
_* Afr' _ , _-? - -
==TV^^T=TmAJK~l)?^ = ?DGEF?ElJ), S. C., WEDNESDAY, JULY 2?. 1895. _ VOL. LX. NO. 26^
_(_ ,---"*- 1 ~~^*
A FAMOUS PRISON.
I?EXTOXVILLE HAS SIIHLTKUBD
MAXY NOTORIOUS CROOKS?
Daily Routine nn<l Labor of tho
Convicts-Al ways Employ ed|
Even If They Uut
Turn a Crank.
\ j 7 HERE is a vast and compli
I outed system of prisons in
_j[ England, where persons
(, iimenablo to the law?aro con
liuod. English law, says tho New
York Journal, is peculiar iu that it
reaches a result quicker thau out in
tho United States. A man in tko
clutches of the English law gets his
Fcntenco und begins his timo of pun
ishment quicker than in America.
Uut at th-j samo time tbero may bo
taken into consideration tho old saw
that quick haste makes less speed.
English law gives penalties for some
thing liko fivo subdivisions of crime.
Capital offenses aro punished by haug
iug inside of prisou walls. Next in
liuo comes thc crimes for which penil
servitude from five to life-long years
is tho penalty. Then comes tho
numberless offenses, for which tho
punishment is imprisonment, with or
without hard labor. This latter im
prisonment is usually applied for all
olfenscs which" aro punishable with
imprisonment when the scntenco is
not punishable with penal servitude.
{Sentences of this kind arc usually
given from ono month to ten years.
Money tines for misdemeanors, which
?ire served out in jails, make another
subdivision. When comes the ques
tion of thc confinement of prisoners
i rom ono to fivo years in Houses of
Correction.
England and Wales together have
fifty-seven prisons, while Scotland
brings up the rear with fourteen,
making a grand total of seventy-oue
institutions. In additiou, Ibero aro
tho local prisons, or penal institutions,
in the city of Loudon, which will
ewell this list still higher.
Early in English history every class
of criminal waa huddled together
much tho same way as in vogue in tho
average Kt ito Prison in America. But
in 1823 the English took a step which
America might well follow. They de
cided to separate prisoucrs into
classes. It gives a sort of criminal
quarantine, and stops the spread of
vicious infection which is bound to
come when tho morally dead associate
with thc beginner in crime.
Of all tho prisons, tho most famous
from thc fact that it has sheltered
moro than thc usual number of fa
mous crooks within its walls, is Pen
tonvillo Prison, or, as it is better
known, tho "Model" prison of all
England. Within it ia now confined
Oscar Wilde, poet, playwright and
felon, and it is now, for that reason
alone, a curiosity in the criminal
world. It is, further, a fair sample
of the average Euglish prison.
Pentonville Prison is a series of
buildings walled all around with in
sano asylum-like windows. Entrance
is gained through a portcullis gate
way, with a square porch flanked with
by a square e'eck tower. Itjrequiros a
Government order to inspect tho pris
on, but anyone interested in tho con
finement of convicts has no troub?o in
gaining the necessary permit at tho
Homo Office of tho English Prison
Department at Whitehall, S. W.
Possibly tho first thing that strikes
the vrdnd of thc visitor is the exquis
ite cleanliness of the prison. In tho
dainty privato homo ot a New York
woman of fashion no moro attention
is paid to cleanliness than in Pen ton
villo. All the floors in tho iustitution
aro of cut stono highly polished, and
all of tho walks are of carefully kept
street asphalt. Uuliko American
prisons, thero is no traco of that
"prisou smell" which is tho first
thought that strikes the visitor to an
institution where convicts are pun
ished in the land of tho freo.
Tho caro taken in ventilating and
airing Pentonville Prison is ft point
which is not looked after all over
England, it may be confessed, but in
this caso care is certainly taken to
reach a decided condition for good.
Tho prison intorior is divided into
four long corridors, which radiate
from a center like ribs in a woman's
fan. All of tho corridors are stone
paved and aro well lighted by glass in
tho arches of tho roof. Like tho in
terior cf the new prison in the Tombs,
tho walls on each side of the corridors
are pierced with cells. Abovo tho
corridors, too, are thrco tiers or
atones of other cells roached by light
iron balconies and steps. This deli
cate tracery of iron work is joined
here und there across tho balconies by
narrow bridges, whero fjurerils sit il ay
and night in commanding position
which overlook the corridors, with
their teeming population of criminals
locked in the cells which range along
them.
To tho observer there is nono of
that horriblo aemi-darkness of tho in
terior of an American prison. The
main feature in tho centro structuro
seems to be an effort to gain a bright,
cheery and airy building. Even tho
windowB do not partake of the barred
TTTONIN'O TnE THANK.
and grutcd style so apparent in Amer
ica. Tho frames of all tho windows
uro of cast steel, but tho window framos
themselves are mado so small as to
serve as light givers and safeguards as
well.
The cells arc thirteen feot loug, pix
by seven feet in width and nine feet in
height. Somo of them contain looms
io: carpet weaving, but in that case
the cells are nearly twice as large as
the ordinary ones. Against the wall
on one side is placed a bright copper
baud bisiu with u water faucet near
it. A small (doset, well supplied with
water pipes occupies one corner of the
cell. A sha led gas jet i* in a conven
ient point io tho wall, while thero are
?helves m the spoon, platter, nong.
and soap box of thc prisoner nailed
upon tho wall nt ono 6ido of the door.
During tho day tho upper of theso
shelves is used for tho rolled up ham
mock of the prisoner and his bedding.
When night comes tho hammook ?3
slnng about thrco feet from the
ground to iron bracos set in tho walls
of tho cell, which gives tho advantage
of a good bed and one that does not
toko up room in tho daytime. A lit
tle table and a stool makes up tho re
mainder of the furnituro of each celi,
whilo on tho walls of each is placed
the rules of tho prison, which convicts
must carefully obey.
Tho prison garb, of a drab canvas,
shot plentifully with broad arrows, is
fully as beautiful as the drab and palo
yellow striped cloth of tho Now York
State Prison convicts at Dannemora,
Auburn or Siug Sing. With each suit
io furnished two chaug03 of plain
whito cloth underclothes, a Scotch cap
and heavy cowhido shoes.
All convicts in Pcutonvillo Prison arc
known as soon as they becomo prison
ers by numbers. If a mau before ho
became a prisonor boro tho proudost
title in tho peerage of England, Scot
laud, Ireland or Wales, ho becomes
upon his ontrancc to tho institution
only a number. Ho is A 2171 or 13
G051, as the caso may be, and ho-must
wear at his breast at ail time3 a big
brass badge bearing his number.
"Look out there, A 2171," sings out
a guard when addressing a prisoner.
And all through tho prison lifo of a
convict only this number is used. It
would puzzle even tho warden of tho
prison to tell thc namo of a prisoner
without reference to tho records upon
which, opposito his name and number,
stands tho Christian and surname of
tho convict.
Prisoners aro by no means starved
A TREADMILL IN A:
(Convicts In the etulb
in Pcntonvillo. Tho allowance for
breakfast to each convict is tou ounces
of bread, three-quarters of a pint of
cocoa, with two ounces of puro milk
and two drachms of molasses. For
dinner half a pint of soup, four ounces
of meat, beef or mutton alternately,
five ounces bf broad und ono pound of
potatoes is tho menu. For tea each
mau gets a pint of gruel, niado of aa
ounce and one-half of meat, and
sweetened with five drachms of mo
lasses, with fivo ounces of broad. In
case of a certain lino of punishmont
these rations aro reduced. The most
salutary form of punishment is in tho
(looking of rations. A prisoner will
give in quioker when placed on a star
vation diet than for any other cause.
In tho prison there aro four stages
of service. In the first-class the
prisoner has to perform first-class hard
labor for a certain number of hours in
each day. That means ho has to work
in tho treadmill or upon what is known
as tho "cranks."
Tho treadmill, or treadwell, is not
a particularly useful machine. Tho
prisoners call servico upon it "tread
ing the win J," and that is about what
it is, for it seems to serve no useful
purpose, except to keep prisoners em
ployed. The sole uso tho machino has
is merely to keep a certain number of
men employed when there isn't any
I thing else for them to do.
Each tread whool or mill is BO con
structed that if necessary twenty-four
men can bo omployod upon it at a
time. Tho mill is divided into tweuty
four littlo compartments or 6talls.
Each compartment is something less
than twenty-four inches in width aud
is scparatod from tho adjoining ono by
high woodon partitions. Tho mill is
couuectod with a"fun, which is so ar
ranged as to givo ouough resistance to
tho mill to make thc words "hard la
bor" mean what they say. Thcro aro
twenty-four stops in tho wheel, which
aro eight inches apart. This makes
tho circumferouce of tho wheel six
teen feet. Tho wheel performs thirty
revolutions in ouch quarter of au hour,
and each man walks on an average
fifteen quarters of au hour a day. So
he ascends something liko 720U feet,
or 2400 yards, for a day's labor.
Crank ?abor consists of making 10,
000 revolutions of a crank, which is
placed ou u narrow iron drum put ou
legs with a long handle on ono aide,
which, whou turned, causes a scries of
caps or scoops in the interior to re
volve. At tho lower part of tho drum
is a quantity of Baud, which tho cups
scoop up and carry to the top of tho
w?eel, where they empty themselves.
A dial plate rogisters the number of
revolutions made. A convict at or
dinary rate of speed makis 120 revolu
tions of the crank au hour, so to turu
10,000 of them means about eight,
hours an I twenty minutes' labor.
In case of physical inability to do
treadmill or crank labor, tho convict
is placed at second-class labor, which
moans the plaiting of oakum, atone
UT&fiJt?w?? aud kmdrod pursuit, AU ?
prisoner has to dc is to Bit and pick
from three to six pounds of old ropo
per driy into oakum. Tho quantity
picked into oakum in Pontouvillo
Prison will average about threo and
one-half tons a week. It is sold, and
brings in some return for tho labor.
In addition, trades aro taught in tho
prison which aro usually akin to the
useful arts.
Punishment in Pontonville Prison
have been made into live classes. First
comes the loss of advantago which tho
prisoner gets in being rated in olasses.
Then comos tho transfer from tko
highest to tho lowest class of servi
tude. Next comes fasting and a bread
and water diet, and thc next stage is
confinement in a cell of correction.
Lastly is ranked bodily chastisement,
but this ia limited to eighteen lashes
to prisoner under eighteen years of
agc and thirty-six lashes to older men.
A nother point, too, which all the Eng
lish prisons havo in common is in giv
ing convicts with exceptionally good
behavior record.* before 6cutenccs
expiro "tickets of leave," which
allow thom to leave an institution .and
koop at large without a return during
good bohavior.
In all English prisons tho "routine"
of daily work is about tho same. In
fact, tho prisons do not ditler much in
styles of architecture, and neither do
they differ in routiuo work. At 0
o'clock every week day morning tho
Chiof Warden gives tho signal to "un
lock." Tho oGiocrs of tho different
wards hurry from cell to coll with
koys in their hands to open each nar
row dwelling. lu Bomo of tho more
modern prisons tho American plan of
a crank which, when it turns, locks or
unlocks tho cells upon a corridor at
once, is uso.
As soon 03 tho cells aro unlocked
N* ENGLISH* ritlSON.
i are picking oakum.)
each prisoner hurries in his under
clothing for a tub of water from tho
faucet in his coll, with which ho cleans
out his littlo homo. This is dono un
der military rulo.
Prior to tho beginning of tho day's
work tho "cleaners," as tho men who
cleau cells aro called, tho "cooks," or
those who do duty In tho kitchon, aro
marched away in long prison filoj to
their respectivo dut ios.
Thon somo of tho conviots wash tho
cells, others sweep tho pavements un
til thoy glisten, while all aro watchod
by armed guards from tho littlo mid
air bridges above the stono corridor
floor.
WEAVING IN THE PRISON.
A big bell iu tho prison summons
tho prisoners to work at G. 30 every
morniug. Men hurry to tho tread
mills, tho cranks, or report in filos un
der chargo of a guard to tho "trado
instructor," who sets thom at work.
Carpets aro woven on looma in tho
colls, shoemakers bustle at their work,
oakum pickers hurry to duty, and so
on it goes all over the prison. Every
convict must work, whether ho only
"treads wind" or aimlessly turns
"cranks" or is busy at some-vocation.
For an hour the prisons hum with
thc souud of labor. Thon, at 7.30
o'clock, breakfast ia served to each
prisoner while at work. Work con
tinues until ll o'clock and then the
prisoners aro marched in long liles,
lockstep fashion, to exercising yards.
In each yard is a long ropo with
knots ubout liftoou foot apart, so that
230 prisoners eau got on the ropo at a
time. Each tile of 13 J men grasps tho
ropo and then at brisk paces for fif
teen minutes whirl round in a circle
Tho idoa of keeping tho mon fifteen
feet apart is to curry out the idea of
.separate confinement. Tho only pos
sible- timo that tho prisoners can com
municate is when in tho lockstep, but
then thoy caunot speak to each other,
bo closely aro they watched.
At 12.30 o'clock daily diuuor is
; nerve J, and thou work begins again
j and is continued uutil 5 o'cloek, when
another fifteen minutes is devoted to
[exercise. At 5.80 o'clock tb6 convict
j Lus supper ur gruel nu 1 bread,und
j :? littlo btJ'ufp ll o'?look lantern-; are
j slyQ'j io tho prisoners nud the ge-? jo
tho prison in lighted. From 7 p. m.
to 9 p. m. the]prisoners are allowed to
read, but at iho latter boar all tbo
lights aro put: oat except ono or two
in the corridors..
That is tho iweek day routine. On
Sundays tho convicta aro marched to
tho respect! ve^cb'apels in tho different
prisons, and they also have usually a
few littlo tidbits for dinnor, but ex
cept for thai lack of labor and only
one short"tria? at exercise tho day is
passed in tho,'solitade of cells.
A Bb,' Meteorite in Mexico.
A New York Times writer has had a
look at'somfl hig meteorites which
have fallen iavMcxico. Most of theso
meteorites ar?a preserved in tho mu
seum of tho .School of Mines in the
THE SAN* GREGOMO METEOMTE.
City of MOJ??CO, or aro roproscntcd by
full size model?. Similar models of
tho larger masses were exhibited by
Professor Ai: A. Ward, of Bockester,
N. Y., in the Mining Building of tho
World's Columbian Exposition at Chi
cago. The claim to being notable
will bo demonstrated by a recitation
of the dimensions und weights of
some of tho prominent motooritcs.
A visitor to tho National School of
Mines in the City of Mexico wdl no
tice on either sido of tho portal lead
ing to the commodious courtyard two
large, irregular masses, resembling in
shape tho result of a "boil" at a blast
furnace oasting bed, or a leak between
tho copo and tho drag of a largo cast
ing. Tho brown, rusty color of theso
massc^gives the impression that they
aro specimens of brown hematite irou
oro, but at tho fow points where tho
structure ha3 boen exposed by chip
ping and filing, a metallic lustre, with
etriationsicommon 'to meteorio iron,
demonstrated the origin of these
monster Specimens. Tho principal
av.erngo dimensions of tho two pieces
Axef . . -..
? v^jyfp'?th. . Width.
?f"7 ts^ Smf-^jii^-'^ y ?oot,7 Inches.
"V. 8 IBot rayhoT? "fl rout 7 ?iicW . "-'
Thickness. Weight.
n. 1 foot 8 Inches. 20,430 pounds.
b. 1 foot 4 Inches. 34,400 pounds.
Tho irregularity of form will not bo
appreciated from the sizes' given, and
the total weight-51,850 pounds, or
nearly twenty-five gross tons-thoro
being a number of trolibito depres
sions cr pot holes on tho surfaces.
Tho density is given as 7.8.
Tho form of those two pieces also
indicatos that they woro originally
parts of ono great mass recognized as
tho Chupaderos Meteorito, which af
ter more than four conturic3 was in
1893 conveyed over 900 miles to tho
City of Mexico. The two pio3es wcro
found about SOO feet apart.
Another notable meteorite, that of
San Orogorio, whioh may bo consid
ered a rival of tho specimens described,
is approximately conical in form, av
eraging four feet iu diameter at tho
baso aud forty inches in height. The
density was found to bo 7.74 aud tho
calculated weight 87,920pounds. This
mass is also to form a feature of tho
collection of tho Mexican Geological
Survey, whioh occupies the largo
building (a former palace) in connec
tion with tho School of Minos. Tho
illustration is intended to show tho
dimensions of tho meteorito San Gre
gorio, as compared to men of ordinary
stature.
Dcop-Sea Thermometers.
Thermometers made for taking tho
temperature in moderately deep waters
have tho tubo encased in a coppor cyl
inder to protect it from inquisitivo
fishes and from contact with rocks ;
there is a ring at tho bottom to which
sufficient weights may bo attached to
6ink it readily. The cylinder has a
long, narrow door in front of tho
scale, which may bc omened for tho
reading; and this door closes with
joints BO tight that tho cylinder brings
up the water from tho bottom with its
tomporaturo practically unchouged by
the waters through which it passes.
Now York Sun.
Bcv. Joseph Cook's New Field.
Eov. Dr. Joseph Cook, tho noted
Boston divine, recontly sailod from
Sau Francisco to spend two years lec
turing in Australia, China, Japuu and
15EV. JOSEPH COOK..
India. In Boston his Suuday after
noon "talks" have for years beeu a
featuro at tho Huh.
Imbcrt de Saint Armand, tho author
of au endless series of semi-historical
books on tho Queens of Fra ie.', i*
writing a sensational book ou tho his
tory of tho Second Empire on informa
tion furnished by thu Engross Eu?
SUMMER STYLES.
WHAT WO 31 KS WILL WK All IX
THE II KA TED TERM.
Trimmed Skirt Fronts Are Coming
Gruss Linen Lawn Outfit
Changea in tho Shirt Waist
-Latest In Collars.
THE day of tho trimmed skirt
front is coming to ns slowly
hut surely. It is ns yet only
dimly foreshadowed, but
it is there all tho same. Some skirts
havo merely a doublo fold at tho sides ;
others havo long A-skaped panels;
aud others are trimmed with some
elaborate garnituro set on either iu
plain or irregulur rows from belt to
hom. Ono dress ha3 double rows of
largo buttons down the sides; another
has a wido band of singlo passemen
terie ornaments set on in waved lines;
others havo scarfs of 6ilk or ribbon
fastened in at the belt and drooping
to the hem of thc skirt, with loop?,
rosettes and large bows set on at in
tervals. One very elegant dress hos
tho entiro front wrought in embroid
ery, and others have thc front made
of crimped materlul or some contrast
ing fabric, either in figured or of
plain goods, covered with any of the
populur ornaments of tho day.
Tho dressmakers say, "As soon as
wo learn to mako tho gOdet skirts pcr
8?MMEH DRESS IN BROWN WHIP-CORT
RIBBON AND KI
fectly-they nearly drovo us mad at
[ first-they will go out of fashion."
[ Thero aro no 6igns yet of diminishing
skirt breadths, however, and all tho
6toel wiros, horsehair and generally
oxpensivo things used to mako skirts
stand out indicato that the teudency
is to increase tho voluminous instead
of to decreaso it. But it ia all too
j truo as soon ns one phase of fashion
captures tho public, Mme. la Mode
aonds forth a now conceit-a variation
only, perhaps, of tho ?tylc that pre
ceded it-but different cuough in do
grco to have thc cvcr-alluriug charm
of novelty.
Wo were all swathed in white linen
lawn carly in thc spriug-or should
have been, of course, according to tho
canon of modes. Aa soon as volant
fingers fashioned daiuty ouffs, collars
and broad collarettes of the whitest
lawn, in comes with a swoop grass
cloth linen. Everybody must get
grass linen if she wants to provo she
is in tho current. It is adaptable to
bo euro to any sort of gown, and as it
can bo washed and is durable, it is
really a-very sensible and commend
able substituto for thc dainty white
largo collars that seem hardly suitablo
to wear in dirty streets, exquisitely
fresh and attractive as whito always
seems.
It is a fiat, therefore, that every
woman who aspires to bc well and
modishly dressed must havo at least
ono outfit for neck and wrists of grass
linen lawn, and she must boast of nt
least ono summer frock in black,
whito or a shot effect-in alpaca. Al
paca runs a closo raoo with crepou ;
tho former is now in tho lead.
Polka-dotted taffeta is popular for
waists, and comes in all colors and
combinations. A skirt of black clair
otto with u waist of pol hu-spotted
surah makes a pretty and useful eos
tumo. lu tho making of capes there
is no end, and tho variety sometimes
becomes almost a weariness to the
flesh. Thero are so many that one can
never tell which to choose. A popu
lar pattern is very full und short, just
reaching tho wnist-liue. It is of cloth,
nud is used for comfort rather than
any special beauty. Tho collar is a
very full ruching of silk, cither plaited
doublo or with outside of tho capo ma
terial and silk lining.
Bibbous aro used iu the greatest
profusion ; iudeod, ono might fancy
that designers sat up o' nights in try
ing to deviso places v/hcro they niijht
bo put to advantage.
CHANGES IN Till? SHIKT WAIST.
Tho most characteristic difference
between tho shirt waist of to-day and
that of hiBt Booton lies in the sleeve.
The lull bishop's sleeve with a narrow
cull has superseded the shirt sleeve ou
all Euglish shirt waists. These waists
aro generally li nish ed by a group of
little tucks below the straight band at
.lie ueclc. which is not PO becoming
as the turndown collar of last season.
Tho pouch-pleat, as tho large, sagging
box-pleat worn iu front is called, is
uot only used on full waists, but ou
alose-fitting waists as well, lt is some
times made of somo material or color
iu direct contrast to tba bodice, Thus
a tizhl~?tU?{( botl?oo ol Oriontaj pi|k
has the full upper part of tho sleeve."] f
and tho sagging pleat of (hill, roso
oolorod satiu. Again this blouse pleat
may bo of yellow-tinted batiste, striped
with Valenciennes lace, inserted iu tho
front of a waist of summer silk. Little
Paquin pointu of laco ?nd batiste fall
over tho collar of tho blouse, aud there
may be a quaint cuff of the same sheer
materials drooping over the hand. In
sertions of butter-colored embroidery
or of heavy black laco uro seen in oth
er blouses. Thus a waist of black
surah has a square yoke and sleeve
>- -FRONT OF SPANGLED WIIITE SATIN
LTED BATISTE.
puffe, reaching to the elbows, of palo
blue silk, striped with black gnipuro
laco. Or a waist of pink silk ia striped
lengthwise with heavy insertions of
iuch-wide, butter-colored embroidery.
Thcro aro eight of these insertions
down the full front, and five down tho
upper part of tho sleeve, whioh is
pleated to bring them into special
prominence at tho shoulder. A row
of from five to six or eight ahirriugs
is often U3cd at the top of tho expan
aive sleeve of the hour. This auccoss
fully holds it down so that it cannot
stand erect above tho shoulder. Tho
blouse seeu iu the accompanying
sketch hus a yoke and rutiles set in,
jabot-fashion, of buttor-colorcd lace.
THE LATEST VAN DYKE COLLAH.
Van Dyke collars ore so much used
on capos and dresses that this simple
[
VAN DYKE COLLAR.
now design for a homo-mado collar
will no doubt provo very useful. Tho
figuro can easily bo worked on silk,
net or mull, with Houitou braid in
tho second, or even a smaller size.
PLAIDS AUK POPULAR.
Plaids aro popular, and wool dresses
and those of crnpo-surfaced goods
especially are exceedingly pretty with
this combination. A crapo-surfaood
skirt has a waist with tho crape at tho
aides und buck aud forming a very
deep collar that turns over to the
sleeve tops. The vost and full sleeves
are of plaid. A handsome visiting
dress ia of crapo cloth with passemen
terie panels on either side and a plain
front breadth of tho material. There
are vory full sleeves almost covered .
by deep laco rulllos; tho close-fitting
body has au elaborate yoko of lace
and passementerie aud a high-eollur
rolling out from the throat, making
the head appeur as though set in a
daring cup.
LACE FOR DRESS DECORATION.
Tho dominant note of dress decora
tion is lace, and nothing but the most
severe tailor-made coat and skirt es
cupes u touch of it. How tho fem mino
side of humauity ever uohieved auy
dainty or picturesque SUOJJSS ia ares*
without tile at I ot' lajj au I chiffon Li
H difficult qnettliou t:j AU ?wer at a timo
when both seem in lispens ible Addi
tions to almost every article of dress.
China bas given us 100,000 men,
raoftly jaundryipeu,
Are you taking SIMMONS LIVER REG
ULATOR, the "KINO OF LIVER MEDI
CINES?" That is what our readers
want, and nothing but that. It is the
same old friend to which the old folks
pinned their faith and were never dis
appointed. But another good recom
mendation for it ia, that it is BETTER
THAN PILLS, never gripes, never weak
ens, but works in such an easy and
natural way, just like nature itself, that
relief comes quick and sure, and one
feels new all over. It never fails.
Everybody needs take a liver remedy,
and everyone should take only Sim
mons Liver Regulator.
Be sure you get it. The Red Z
is on the wrapper. J. H. Zeilin &
Co., Philadelphia.
THE PERFECT WOMAN.
A Story of How That Event Was
Realized.
In a book by Loon Gazlin, the
French author, is the following
pretty account of tho distribution of
tho charms of tho female sox by a
fairy :
"To tho Castillian, long and black
hair, with which she might almost
make a mantilla.
"To tho Italian, eyes bright and
ardent as a midnight eruption of
Vesuvius.
"To tho Turk, a form as round aa
tho moon and soft as eiderdown.
"To tho German, beautiful tooth
and nn earnest heart, profoundly in
clined to love.
"To the English, aurora borealis to
glorify or paint her cheeks, her lip3
and her shoulders.
"Afterward sho gave gayety to tho
Neapolitan, wit to the Irish, good
sense to the Fleming.
"But when this good fairy, who
had served out all those female at
tractions to tho daughters ot Eve,
had exhausted all her treasures, an
attractive little figure came tripping
up and asked for her sharo. 'And
who are you, dear?' said the good
fairy, rather surprised. 'O, I'm a
Parisienne,' said tho little lady. 'I'm
sorry,'said the fairy, 'but I have given
everything to your sisters ; I have ac
tually nothing loft.' This caused
groat griof to ?V petitioner; so much
so that the fairy took pity on her;
and calling the other recipients of
hor bounty togother, put it to them
whether, as she bad been so generous
to them, they would not givo a por
tion of her gifts to tho little stranger,
which they agreed to do. They oach
gave her a share of tho fairy's gifts;
hence tho Porisienno, who, wo are
told, combines in a sufficient degree
all that makes womankind delightful.
"Tho American was not present
when those good things woro being
served out, for the very good reason
that in that good fairy's timo sho
hadn't been invented yet; but she
was equal to the occasion. Sho had
no idea of being loft out in the cold.
Like those fine old Milesian families
who had a boat of their own at tho
Hood, sho got a fairy of hor own, and
told her to talco tho Parisienne for a
model, and seo ii she could not im
prove upon her. Hence the Am?ri
caine. Whother the American fairy
waa successful in fulfilling tho in
structions of her fair cliont I must
leave to better judges to docido; but
there is no doubt that original and
copy aro very nico."
An Affectionate Family Horse.
Perhaps a good deal of the Listen
er's personal love for horses is trace
IIbio back to a singlo incident of his
carly childhood. At tho age of six
ho once mountod Old Rosy (the term
"old" at that time was merely ono
of endoarmont, for tho mare was not
as old as thc boy) to ride to a neigh
bor's. The maro Was fat and sleek,
and so was the boy ; her back was so
round that her spine was a little
hollow instead of a projection. On
this glossy round back was no saddle,
not even a blanket; the fat little
boy's short legs simply stuck out
into the air on either side. The
greater part of tho journey had boen
achieved, and tho boy and maro wore
returning homeward, when, in going
down a slope, Rosy inadvertently
bogan to trot; and thc boy, having
no kind of anchorage, began to slide
forward upon the mare's nock. Upon
that he let go tho bridle, hugged the
neck and screamed. Not knowing
quite what this performance meant,
Rosy continued to trot placidly down
the hill, and tho boy continued to
slido. Doubtless sho thought it was
somo new kind of boy's play. Afc
last he slid clear ovor her hoad, and
rolled upon tho ground. The maro
I must have eased tho fall for him by
ducking her nock slowly, and she
certainly kept her feet entirely clear
of him. lie simply rolled into tho
ditch by the side of tho road, quito
unhurt but boo-hooing lustily.
And thou comes the pretty part of
tho story. The young mare 'lid not
go on ton steps after tho small boy
! rolled oil her nock, but stopped
' turned back, carno down to tho
screaming child nosed him affection
ately, and, as ho will swear to his
dying day, comforted him as best sho
could. She showed him that tho
b idle reins wore hanging down
within his roach. Under such an
influence tho boy of six-which is
an age, it is scarcely needful to say,
when few Boston boys aro intrusted
with thu management of u horse
stopped weeping, got up, tv>ok hold
of the bridle, nod reflecting!)- led the
maro home.
NAMES, oayg tn old maxim, aro
things They certainly m inflvonm,