The clothmaker. [volume] (Clinton, South Carolina) 1952-1984, June 15, 1990, Image 12
Industry News
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Textiles: America's first industry
This year the U.S. textile industry
celebrates its bicentenial, paying
tribute to a long record of economic
and social contributions to this country.
Members of Congress have introduc
ed a resolution to recognize the
bicentennial, calling on the president to
encourage U.S. citizens to take note of
the textile industry’s past and present
accomplishments.
In 1790, the United States was a
young nation, still struggling to become
an established country. But that was
soon to change with the birth of the U.S.
textile industry and manufacturing,
arming the country with a strong ec-
nomic base that has endured ever
since.
An English textile mechanic named
Samuel Slater had a great influence on
the beginning of industrial progress in
the United States. He arrived in
America 200 years ago this year, hav
ing been trained in the steps of Richard
Arkwright. Arkwright was responsible
in 1771 for the first production of all
cotton fabric in England.
Competition in textiles at the time
was so intense that skilled workers in
the industry were not allowed to leave
England. But Slater left anyway, only
after learning the details of textile
machinery and methods for spinning
cotton into yarn for weaving.
Moses Brown, owner and manager of
several manufacturing trading enter
prises, hired Slater in hopes of making
success of mechanized yarn produc
tion. Slater started his operations on
the Blackstone River in Rhode Island,
building the first U.S. spinning factory,
winch earned him the title of the father
of American manufacturing.
Slater was not the only one in the
United States who was experimenting
with textile machinery and production.
Before he left England, small mills in
this country were using hand-operated
jenny technology. But with the help of
skilled workers in the Pawtucket Falls,
R.I., area, Slater built and operated
water-powered textile machinery,
which greatly enhanced production.
In December 1740, a work force of
nine began spinning cotton with
Slater’s machinery. Three years later,
the Slater Mill was built and became
the first English-type cotton-spinning
mill on this continent.
A series of inventions helped to ad
vance the U.S. textile manufacturing
industry even further. In 1793, Eli
Whitney perfected the cotton gin, which
cleaned as much cotton each day as it
had taken 50 people to do in the past.
Francis C. Lowell of Boston visited
England in 1811 and observed the
power-loom industry. Two years later
in Massachusetts, he began manufac
turing cotton goods by power looms for
the first time in America. His mill
became the first in which all
operations—from cotton bale to finish
ed cloth—were not only mechanized
but carried out under one roof.
Textile manufacturing had become a
large-scale industry.
Cotton good companies began to
spring up in this country. Ring spinn
ing, the first great American invention
in the textile industry, was perfected in
1828 by James Thorpe.
Textile mills in northern New
England attracted young women, who
worked a few years while staying in
boarding houses and saving their
wages. Women workers in Lowell,
Mass., became famous for publishing
a book of poetry and literature in 1840.
In 1846 Isaac Singer designed a sew
ing machine more sophisticated than
earlier models. His machine, when
mass produced, led to the textile in
dustry’s biggest offspring, the apparel
industry.
By 1847 more people in the United
States worked in textile plants than any
other industry.
The first synthetic dye entered the
picture in 1856, when it was accidental
ly discovered in a solution of coal tar.
Before that time, fabric dyes had been
obtained from such sources as
shellfish, insects, plants and wood. To
day, more than 1,500 dyes are produc
ed in the United States.
In the mid-19th century, cylinder
printing with power machines was in
troduced, along with the manufactur
ing of coarser ginghams and some
bleaching, dyeing and finishing.
By the 1870s, textile manufacturing
began to become established in the
South and continued to gain strength
there.
The first rayon plant opened in the
United States in 1910, signaling the
beginning of the development of man
made fibers. The textile industry grew
and developed rapidly because of this
new resource.
A variety of new products in the tex
tile industry has been invented in this
century, including nylon in 1931, acrylic
in 1950 and polyester, today’s most
widely used synthetic fiber, in 1953.
Air-jet spinning, a much faster
method than ring spinning, was in
troduced in 1981.
The U.S. textile industry has come a
long way since Slater’s time. Today
more than 700,000 people work in the in
dustry, which has been rated the most
productive and efficient in the world.
This high-tech, modern manufacturing
segment is largely automated and
computer-driven with a wide range of
state-of-the-art equipment.
U.S. Textile Industry pledges to adopt "zero"
solid waste as industry goal
The national trade association of the
U.S. textile industry has pledged to
reduce drastically the amount of solid
waste produced by the industry
through recycling and developing new
waste disposal technologies.
The Board of Directors of the
American Textile Manufacturers In
stitute (ATMI) also passed resolutions
endorsing congressional efforts to
revoke the most favored nation (MFN)
status of China because of human
rights concerns and recognizing the
bicentennial of the U.S. textile industry
this year.
The Board of Directors of the
American Textile Manufacturers In
stitute (ATMI) unanimously passed a
resolution urging companies to adopt
a “zero waste” goal and to work toward
the “virtual elimination” of the prac
tice of using landfills for disposal of
paper and plastic products.
The industry shares the nation’s con
cern over the mounting solid waste
disposal dilemma. Textile manufac
turers, therefore, should work to reduce
their share of nonhazardous waste
disposal of landfills, according to
ATMI.
ATMI’s board, meeting one day
before the organizaton’s 41st annual
meeting, has called on all segments of
the textle industry complex to “work
together to design solutions to our solid
waste disposal problems, particularly
with respect to plastic waste.
The resolution encourages U.S. tex
tile companies and employees to
escalate efforts to protect the environ
ment through recycling.
Regarding China’s MFN status, AT
MI said “it has been widely reported
that there exists a significant amount
of worker exploitation and human
rights abuses in China.” China, the
number-one supplier of textiles and ap
parel to the United States, provides 13.5
percent of all such imports, which com
pete directly with U.S. products and
cost American jobs.
“Be it resolved that ATMI...believes
China should not be rewarded for its ac
tions with continuation of MFN status,
which entitles it to enormous shares of
the U.S. market at the expense of the
American textile industry and
American workers,” the resolution
said.
ATMI “endorse(s) congressional ef
forts to revoke MFN status to China,
and to restrict or prohibit the importa
tion of Chinese goods produced with
forced labor.” In a salute to 200 years
of U.S. textile manufacturing, ATMI’s
Board urges “American textile com
panies and employees, business and
civic leaders, and the general public to
observe the bicentennial with ap
propriate ceremonies and activities
throughout the year.”
The resolution also calls on Congress
to adopt H.R. 518, which would
recognize 1990 as the textile industry’s
bicentennial and declare Oct. 13-20 as
“American Textile Industry Bicenten
nial Week.”
“For 200 years, the textile industry
has contributed greatly to America’s
economy, social system and political
developmnt,” said ATMI President Ed
ward P. Schrum. “Today the textile
complex employs more than two
million Americans and has evolved in
to a modern, state-of-the-art industry.
The bicentennial gives us a chance to
reflect on the industry’s past and for
ward to a strong future.”
ATMI, textile museums and com
panies are planning a variety of ac
tivities this year to commemorate the
bicentennial.
In 1790, an immigrant mechanic
named Samuel Slater arrived in the
United States from England. He began
producing cotton yarn via water-
powered machinery in Pawtucket, R.I.
Slater’s success led to the establish
ment of the textile factory system,
which launched the U.S. industrial
revolution.
ATMI, the national trade association
of the U.S. textile industry, provides in
ternational trade, government rela
tions, economic information, com
munications services and product in
formation in support of the industry.
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