The gamecock. (Columbia, S.C.) 1908-2006, November 01, 1995, Page 3, Image 3
Wednesday, November 1,1995
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TYPSON PETTIGREW The Gamecock
Inspecting the hops at The Hunter-Gather Brewery.
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If the Five Paints scene or that
Saturday-night six-pack has
lost its buzz-inducing charm as
the semester progresses, then
there's a new pub just around
the corner from campus to fill
that entertainment void.
JESSICA NASH AND MATT HERZOO Staff Writers
The Hunter-Gatherer Brewery & Ale House at
900 Main St. (formerly Muldoon's) offers a selection
of three in-house ales brewed in a traditional style.
The breweiy-pub also serves up a tempting menu
of rather non-traditional appetizers, sandwiches,
salads and pizzas.
Entrepreneur Kevin Varner has wanted to open
a breweiy-pub for about five years now. A USC graduate
himself, Varner has worked a breweries in the
Seattle area and studied the brewing process in Europe.
He has developed his own recipes, which are
reminiscent ot rjngiisn ales.
This is a breweiy-pub run by someone who knows
how to do it," said Varner.
Varner decided on Columbia for his location because
there was no brewery-pub in the area. And,
in fact, it is partly because of him that such establishments
can open here now.
"Until June of 1994 it was illegal in South Carolina
to brew beer at a pub. I was instrumental in
getting that law changed," says Varner.
This brewmeister has experimented with the
malty concoction since his college days. After a sixmonth
stint at a university in Scotland, Varner returned
to South Carolina and started brewing at
home. His dreams for his own business came to
fruition on Oct. 6,1995, when the Hunter-Gatherer
opened its doors.
Varner cannot distribute what he makes there,
though. The 1500 kegs a year that he hopes to produce
must be sold on the premises. Sounds like a
challenge for his patrons....
According to knowledgeable (and legal) sources,
the beer at the Hunter-Gatherer is definitely worth
sampling. Varner specializes in a pale ale, an extra
special bitter, and a porter. Each is $2.50 per pint.
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TYSON PETTKJREW The Gamecock {
Patrons enjoy the Hunter-Gather Brewery. j
The pale ale is a dark, reddish-brown. It tastes
slightly maltier than a Bud. Ifs not too heavy, and c
there is veiy little aftertaste. This kind rates high i
among college-age customers. ^
The bitter is darker than the pale ale, and it al- <
so has very little aftertaste. Connoisseurs describe I
it as "smooth, not veiy heavy, and not as thick as
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TYSON PETTIOREW The Gamecock
Kevin Vamer's new bar is located at 900
Main Street, at the comer of College Street
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jxpected." It has a very malty taste. The porter
s virtually black in the glass, with a bit more afertaste
than the other two. It has a full taste and
s only mildly bitter. This one rates as "very drinkible."
Patrons who haven't acquired that taste for beer
an choose wine (house, white, or red), by the glass
>r by the bottle. But even avowed beer-haters alnost
enjoyed the porter. And the management
andly offers samples of its products to unsure cusomers.
As for the atmosphere, that's hard to describe.
[Tie heart pine paneling is from houses around the
state, and some of it is 150 years old. It is varnished
o a brilliant sheen. Wall decorations include huntng
implements from Africa.
At 10:00 p.m. on a Thursday, the bar itself was
xowded but still comfortable. It is well-lit, and the
ligh ceilings facilitate a relatively smoke-free environment.
The service was reasonably fast and
lefinitely friendly?and willing to talk about the
Tunter-Gatherer's menu and specialty ales.